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tonyboy

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Think I might be in the same boat with the sashiko doyle re: sizing (particularly the length), amazing jacket don't get me wrong tho! Wondering out loud if throwing it in the dryer despite it already having been dyed and shrunk may shrink it more?
 

GentlemanJeff

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Oh just the sashiko pattern. Our standard Doyles have been the same since 2016. Sashiko has been a moving target because we have to "bake" the shrinkage amount into it. A lot of factors can cause it to vary from one production run to the next, but the idea is that the variations are minimal enough to not be an issue.

The only other thing is really stiff and raw denim... those garments always make up large and definitely need a full wash to fit properly. We're using the same cut pattern as a regular Doyle, but that fabric is so rigid with cutting that the final piece is bigger. Happens with jeans too.
Thanks! I took some measurements of my sashiko Doyles over the years, and based on that I think I should be a 40 in the revised size. 40 is also my usual size in American blazers (though I often size up to 42 for more fashion-forward Euro brands).

Could you please switch my COSMIC THUNDERBIRD~!! order from a 42 to a 40?

I also have an outstanding moss sashiko Sinclair order for a 42. Do you think I should switch that to a 40 too?

Many thanks!
 

GentlemanJeff

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Thanks! I took some measurements of my sashiko Doyles over the years, and based on that I think I should be a 40 in the revised size. 40 is also my usual size in American blazers (though I often size up to 42 for more fashion-forward Euro brands).

Could you please switch my COSMIC THUNDERBIRD~!! order from a 42 to a 40?

I also have an outstanding moss sashiko Sinclair order for a 42. Do you think I should switch that to a 40 too?

Many thanks!
Though to be clear, I wear a 42 Doyle in non-sashiko fabrics and have previously found the 40 non-Sashikos too small, so this is all kinda confusing!

But my 42 natural sashiko from 2020 is definitely bigger than its peers even after washing, so I should probably size down.
 

GentlemanJeff

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I hesitated on the 42 brisbane navy moleskin doyle and missed out. Anything in a nice lightweight navy cotton or wool coming out this year for spring/summer?
 

GentlemanJeff

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Thanks! I took some measurements of my sashiko Doyles over the years, and based on that I think I should be a 40 in the revised size. 40 is also my usual size in American blazers (though I often size up to 42 for more fashion-forward Euro brands).

Could you please switch my COSMIC THUNDERBIRD~!! order from a 42 to a 40?

I also have an outstanding moss sashiko Sinclair order for a 42. Do you think I should switch that to a 40 too?

Many thanks!
I thought about this some more and hot washed/dried my 2020 natural sashiko again (twice total). Length-wise, it’s about the same as my pre-2020 sashikos, though it’s about an inch wider in the chest and midsection. I wonder if that can be taken it.

So I guess I’ll stick with the 42 — please cancel the above modification request but let me know if you think otherwise. It’s a bit perplexing!
 

peppercorn78

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Got dressed up for my Vaccine appointment today. Hooray for small victories! Wore these gorgeous mocha donegal tweed Hertling Walts. I can’t recall where the fabric comes from...maybe Abraham Moon?

also, our fit contest kinda straddled the holidays and government drama, so probably fell under the radar a bit. Here’s the link, in case anyone else wants to sneak in some submissions!


42D6B845-DBA9-40D4-9EB4-7000835EACC3.jpeg
 

Epaulet

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@Epaulet I’ve been trying to contact you by email for months, and via styleforum direct message / conversation over the last week, about my unfulfilled Southwick suit order from Feb 2020. I’ve had zero communication or response from you - please can you get back to me as soon as possible.
I'm in the same boat. I'm sure it's busy in the new year and will patiently wait probably not as drastic as your circumstances but hopefully they'll get to us.
Thanks for reaching out guys, and I'm sorry for the missed responses. We just received our very first RTC box a few days ago and I've got more stuff en route. Everything is coming together there, so let's get your orders sorted and made. I'll drop you PM's right now.

These are pictures of what I think is a poorly designed or ill-fitting internal drawcord.


This is with the drawstring undone and the waistband flipper forward to show where the drawstrings going into the waistband.

The drawcord sticks to my body, but the buttoning point pops out because it's not as close to my body. I think this is because the drawstring holes are so far apart.
Thanks for posting that, and yeah, I can see where the design went sideways there. For the new pant, I'm not planning to have any fly seam or button at the top... we're using the exact same waist design as our current sweatpant. And that actually does a really good job of staying up on its own. So you shouldn't have any of these issues with it.

Think I might be in the same boat with the sashiko doyle re: sizing (particularly the length), amazing jacket don't get me wrong tho! Wondering out loud if throwing it in the dryer despite it already having been dyed and shrunk may shrink it more?
Absolutely, go ahead and give that a try.

For this round of Doyles, we used the exact same fabric specifications and the exact same cut marker. While the exact fibre properties of the current fabric could be different than the fabric we used in Spring 2020.. it's unlikely that would cause a huge variance in shrinkage.

More likely is that the dye process and water temperature was a bit different. And that the garments haven't shrunk to their full potential. So if it feels a little big, go ahead and give it a hot wash and hot dry. It won't harm the garment and it won't shrink it drastically, but you'll most likely see some additional shrinkage and it will line up closer to where it should be.

Thanks! I took some measurements of my sashiko Doyles over the years, and based on that I think I should be a 40 in the revised size. 40 is also my usual size in American blazers (though I often size up to 42 for more fashion-forward Euro brands).

Could you please switch my COSMIC THUNDERBIRD~!! order from a 42 to a 40?
I also have an outstanding moss sashiko Sinclair order for a 42. Do you think I should switch that to a 40 too?
Many thanks!
Though to be clear, I wear a 42 Doyle in non-sashiko fabrics and have previously found the 40 non-Sashikos too small, so this is all kinda confusing!

But my 42 natural sashiko from 2020 is definitely bigger than its peers even after washing, so I should probably size down.
I hesitated on the 42 brisbane navy moleskin doyle and missed out. Anything in a nice lightweight navy cotton or wool coming out this year for spring/summer?
I thought about this some more and hot washed/dried my 2020 natural sashiko again (twice total). Length-wise, it’s about the same as my pre-2020 sashikos, though it’s about an inch wider in the chest and midsection. I wonder if that can be taken it.

So I guess I’ll stick with the 42 — please cancel the above modification request but let me know if you think otherwise. It’s a bit perplexing!
Gotcha Jeff.. here's from my side:

1) I'm thinking to stick with the 42 on your Cosmic Thunderbird. That's about as intensive of a dye process as we can do. I think it's going to fit you great

2) The Sinclair is a little bigger than the Doyle right from the start, so if it's okay with you.. let's do a 40 Sinclair for your preorder. We should be ready to dye those in about 2-3 weeks. In 95% of cases, I'd advise customers to get the same size in the Sinclair and the Doyle, but since you're right on the edge, I think that the 40 will work better for you. Plus, as a sportcoat, you might want to wear it a bit closer.

3) I'll definitely have some great lightweight and midweight MTO options. Fingers crossed, but I think we can do another custom round in mid-Feb and give a solid delivery window on it. Things are clearing up, the Stay at Home order got lifted in LA, and I think that the worst of COVID is behind us.

Got dressed up for my Vaccine appointment today. Hooray for small victories! Wore these gorgeous mocha donegal tweed Hertling Walts. I can’t recall where the fabric comes from...maybe Abraham Moon?

also, our fit contest kinda straddled the holidays and government drama, so probably fell under the radar a bit. Here’s the link, in case anyone else wants to sneak in some submissions!


View attachment 1542719
Looks great and congrats on getting the shot!!!

Here’s yesterday’s fit in mostly EP as I packed your orders with the assistant house Cat. Shadow Ink Sashiko Parka still going strong and fading nicely.

View attachment 1543348
That cat is your Ride or Die.. for real
 

GentlemanJeff

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Gotcha Jeff.. here's from my side:

1) I'm thinking to stick with the 42 on your Cosmic Thunderbird. That's about as intensive of a dye process as we can do. I think it's going to fit you great

2) The Sinclair is a little bigger than the Doyle right from the start, so if it's okay with you.. let's do a 40 Sinclair for your preorder. We should be ready to dye those in about 2-3 weeks. In 95% of cases, I'd advise customers to get the same size in the Sinclair and the Doyle, but since you're right on the edge, I think that the 40 will work better for you. Plus, as a sportcoat, you might want to wear it a bit closer.

3) I'll definitely have some great lightweight and midweight MTO options. Fingers crossed, but I think we can do another custom round in mid-Feb and give a solid delivery window on it. Things are clearing up, the Stay at Home order got lifted in LA, and I think that the worst of COVID is behind us.
Sounds good on all counts, thanks!
 

Patek

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Any update on when the sashiko rivets are shipping? I thought they were going to ship last week but I have not received a notification.
 

Todd V

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The old debate --- cutaway (15s) vs. British spread (13s)

In recent years I've preferred the more extreme cutaway. It isn't like anyone in my office environment would notice the difference. Maybe I've never owned a well shaped, well executed British Spread and that's my problem. The department store shirts of the 90's are my only frame of reference!

Any thoughts? I'm taking this moment to think before I order a whole bunch of shirts with the new promo!
 

Duke Silver

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Personally, I find the IS medium spread to be pretty perfect. It’s wide enough to stay under jacket lapels and to take on that nice sprezzy softness if you take the stays out, but not so extreme to draw too much attention to itself, which I like. Of course, everyone’s differing builds will alter the way they fit you but I’ve been really happy with every shirt I’ve ever bought with that collar.
 

Churchill W

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Thanks for posting that, and yeah, I can see where the design went sideways there. For the new pant, I'm not planning to have any fly seam or button at the top... we're using the exact same waist design as our current sweatpant. And that actually does a really good job of staying up on its own. So you shouldn't have any of these issues with it.
Thanks. To be fair to these pants, I don't need to tie the drawstring when I'm lounging at home, but if I need to pop out for groceries or something and need to throw in my phones (2 of them), cardholder, money clip, and keys, the pants start slipping and I need the drawstring to keep them up.
 

Epaulet

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Sounds good on all counts, thanks!
For sure.. thanks Jeff!

Any update on when the sashiko rivets are shipping? I thought they were going to ship last week but I have not received a notification.
Yup, I've got all of them at the dye house right now. Projected to finish tomorrow (Thursday) night... so we can ship the bulk of them out on Friday.

This also includes (1) Doyles and Kamigatas in Racing Green, Chestnut, Ultraviolet, and Oxblood (2) Open stock Rivets in Gunmetal, Steel Moss, and Mink and (3) orders where customers purchased matched pairs of jackets and pants.

The old debate --- cutaway (15s) vs. British spread (13s)

In recent years I've preferred the more extreme cutaway. It isn't like anyone in my office environment would notice the difference. Maybe I've never owned a well shaped, well executed British Spread and that's my problem. The department store shirts of the 90's are my only frame of reference!

Any thoughts? I'm taking this moment to think before I order a whole bunch of shirts with the new promo!
IMG_5564.jpg


They're similar overall.. the main difference is (1) 3" Point Length for the British Spread and about 3.4" for the Cutaway.

If you're talking casual shirts, I think that the British Spread lends itself better to being worn that way. It would work wonderfully with all of the new Madras & Poplin options... and it looks cool on things like flannel and chambray.

The Cutaway is a bit more formal by nature. It's a great choice for any dress fabric and I think it looks great in casual solids like linens. If you were looking to get 5 shirts, then we can work together to figure out which ones are best as British Spread, and which are best as Cutaway
 

Epaulet

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Here's the video of the Thomas Mason Madras & Poplin fabrics...


I've got 12 more Spring fabrics to show, they'll be in the update newsletter tomorrow. I'm shooting the video now and will post it. This is going to be a great opportunity to get in on some amazing Spring shirts!
 

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