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Patek

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I received my kamigata undyed in 44. Great piece and I have been wearing it almost every day WFH. The sleeves are a bit long but I assumed it was intentional as the entire jacket is very casual and oversized cardigan like. I just put it through its second wash so I'll check to see if it shrunk a bit as I think the undyed pieces are never washed and may shrink a bit more than the dyed pieces.

Most of my Eapulet shirts I had to donate as they shrunk in the sleeves after a couple washes so I'm actually glad to have apiece that I can keep as the sleeves are finally long enough.
 

section31

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Hi Eva, Sorry to bring this here but it looks like this might be the best method to contact you. Have a similar sizing issue with a t-shirt and a sweatshirt. Check PMs here or a couple of e-mails I sent to [email protected].
 

Epaulet

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Eva, I received my Mink Doyle size 40 today. It's beautiful, but the sizing is way off. Something's wrong, it's labeled as a 40, but it is significantly, unwearably bigger than my other Doyles and Sinclairs - both of which are 40s and fit me quite well. I am going to send this back. Should I send an email to someone at Epaulet to get a return going?

It's not a proportion issue, the whole garment is way big (like, say, a 44), so it may be that some were mis-tagged. Just wanted to put this here in case it's an issue for others.
Wasn't mistagged. I had a similar issue with my latest sahsiko doyle. Eva said that some of the sashiko runs were sized smaller and that she recently went back to sizing the jackets to be standard across all fabrics which apparently are quite a bit bigger.

I have 2 size 42 sashiko doyles that I got in 2019 which fit really well. My doyle purchased in 2020 sized 40 fits much bigger than my size 42 jackets from 2019. I'm thinking on a future order I might actually go down to a size 38.
Hey guys, thanks for the feedback. I measured quite a few production garments and they were within our usual specs, so I think that the current stock is pretty consistent. But a couple of considerations:

1) The pattern was enlarged in Spring 2020 (the Unidos Juntos round) in order to make the production more consistent with our online measurements. So these jackets.. and the ones made in 2020... are definitely larger than all Sashiko garments made before that time. Guys used to have to size up, but that's no longer the case.

2) This process isn't an exact science. Our pre-wash garments are about 1.67x the size of the final product. It shrinks a ton as it's washed and dyed. Certain colors are more intense and shrink a bit more than others. Garments in the middle of the "ball" can shrink a bit more than those on the outside. Generally things equalize after you wash it yourself, but there's always going to be some variance with these.

3) If you have a garment and it's a bit larger than you'd like, go ahead and hot wash and hot dry it to see if that makes a difference.

4) If something is totally way too big (like @banjozombie), then drop me a PM right on here and we'll work out an exchange. If I have it in stock (like the Mink) then it's really easy. If we don't have extra stock, then I'll have it made. We're running 100 Sashiko Doyles next week for wholesale, so it's easy for me to add a few additional pieces and have them dyed whatever color they need to be.

I received my kamigata undyed in 44. Great piece and I have been wearing it almost every day WFH. The sleeves are a bit long but I assumed it was intentional as the entire jacket is very casual and oversized cardigan like. I just put it through its second wash so I'll check to see if it shrunk a bit as I think the undyed pieces are never washed and may shrink a bit more than the dyed pieces.

Most of my Eapulet shirts I had to donate as they shrunk in the sleeves after a couple washes so I'm actually glad to have apiece that I can keep as the sleeves are finally long enough.
Very cool.. yes the Kamigata is a larger fitting garment by design, so that extra room is intentional. The old Medium kamigata was essentially a 40 in the Doyle. You can feel free to run it through a hot wash and dry, chances are you'll get a bit more loss in the length.

Hi Eva, Sorry to bring this here but it looks like this might be the best method to contact you. Have a similar sizing issue with a t-shirt and a sweatshirt. Check PMs here or a couple of e-mails I sent to [email protected].
No worries, I gotcha! And everyone on here... feel free to send me a PM. I'm not crazy about the chat function, as it seems to bug out a lot on my phone.
 

Epaulet

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Oh and Sashiko Rivet Chinos are finished and in-hand! We got every single unit that we're supposed to have. I'm taking them to the dye house first thing in the morning, so we should be set to ship these by the middle of next week.

I have a quick preview for you too. Things are still in work, but if all goes well, this Spring will be a collaborative project between us and a storied, Ivy-style American retailer. We're doing two-piece Sashiko suits (Rivets and Sinclairs) with some cool tweaks and modifications. I'll post more info as it's confirmed. One rad detail is madras interior piping. This is going to look more monochromatic after the dye, but you'll still see the effect....

IMG_5252.JPG
 
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GentlemanJeff

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Hey guys, thanks for the feedback. I measured quite a few production garments and they were within our usual specs, so I think that the current stock is pretty consistent. But a couple of considerations:

1) The pattern was enlarged in Spring 2020 (the Unidos Juntos round) in order to make the production more consistent with our online measurements. So these jackets.. and the ones made in 2020... are definitely larger than all Sashiko garments made before that time. Guys used to have to size up, but that's no longer the case.

2) This process isn't an exact science. Our pre-wash garments are about 1.67x the size of the final product. It shrinks a ton as it's washed and dyed. Certain colors are more intense and shrink a bit more than others. Garments in the middle of the "ball" can shrink a bit more than those on the outside. Generally things equalize after you wash it yourself, but there's always going to be some variance with these.

3) If you have a garment and it's a bit larger than you'd like, go ahead and hot wash and hot dry it to see if that makes a difference.

4) If something is totally way too big (like @banjozombie), then drop me a PM right on here and we'll work out an exchange. If I have it in stock (like the Mink) then it's really easy. If we don't have extra stock, then I'll have it made. We're running 100 Sashiko Doyles next week for wholesale, so it's easy for me to add a few additional pieces and have them dyed whatever color they need to be.



Very cool.. yes the Kamigata is a larger fitting garment by design, so that extra room is intentional. The old Medium kamigata was essentially a 40 in the Doyle. You can feel free to run it through a hot wash and dry, chances are you'll get a bit more loss in the length.



No worries, I gotcha! And everyone on here... feel free to send me a PM. I'm not crazy about the chat function, as it seems to bug out a lot on my phone.
Was the sashiko doyle pattern enlarged or were all doyles enlarged? Curious because I haven't noticed the non-sashiko doyles increasing in size (and I got several last year!).
 

Epaulet

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Was the sashiko doyle pattern enlarged or were all doyles enlarged? Curious because I haven't noticed the non-sashiko doyles increasing in size (and I got several last year!).
Oh just the sashiko pattern. Our standard Doyles have been the same since 2016. Sashiko has been a moving target because we have to "bake" the shrinkage amount into it. A lot of factors can cause it to vary from one production run to the next, but the idea is that the variations are minimal enough to not be an issue.

The only other thing is really stiff and raw denim... those garments always make up large and definitely need a full wash to fit properly. We're using the same cut pattern as a regular Doyle, but that fabric is so rigid with cutting that the final piece is bigger. Happens with jeans too.
 

Texasmade

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1) The pattern was enlarged in Spring 2020 (the Unidos Juntos round) in order to make the production more consistent with our online measurements. So these jackets.. and the ones made in 2020... are definitely larger than all Sashiko garments made before that time. Guys used to have to size up, but that's no longer the case.

2) This process isn't an exact science. Our pre-wash garments are about 1.67x the size of the final product. It shrinks a ton as it's washed and dyed. Certain colors are more intense and shrink a bit more than others. Garments in the middle of the "ball" can shrink a bit more than those on the outside. Generally things equalize after you wash it yourself, but there's always going to be some variance with these.
This pretty much explains my last doyle that I received in 2020. I still prefer the prior sizing but understandable if the pattern was enlarged to be consistent across the board.
 

Epaulet

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This pretty much explains my last doyle that I received in 2020. I still prefer the prior sizing but understandable if the pattern was enlarged to be consistent across the board.
Yeah, pre-2020 we were fielding a lot of complaints for Sashiko being too small and short. I worked to correct that with the current pattern, but it's always a moving target.

That said, stuff is still made by hand with a reduced staff, so I wouldn't be surprised if there were a few pieces legititmately mis-tagged. We typically measure everything that goes out, but the preorders were over 250 units, so me and the crew really just tried to get everything sent as fast as we could. You guys have been so patient with us, that I didn't want to cause any additional delays.
 

sartoria vacua

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@Epaulet - figured i'd fly a couple of applies-to-me kites before diving back into the shadows (and all the poor form that implies) --- what's the current ETA on the chesnut sashiko preorder lot? (... and could i get a check on order 50361 sometime)? huzzah 2021~!
 

Texasmade

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Yeah, pre-2020 we were fielding a lot of complaints for Sashiko being too small and short. I worked to correct that with the current pattern, but it's always a moving target.
Damned if you do and damned if you don't.
 

jms

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Just cracked open the box of kamigatas (steel moss and mink), and regarding the sizing, only the sleeves feel a touch long. That's usually the case with stock sizing for me. The fit feels pretty consistent with non-sashiko doyles and sinclairs. I missed the first go around of kamigatas and I've held back on purchasing anything sashiko until now.

And honestly....

These feel like one of my favorite purchases in about ten years of purchases at Epaulet. 👊👊👊
 

banjozombie

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Thanks Eva and all, makes sense to me now. I'm unsure whether to keep / hot wash it or to send it back and get say, a 38. Eva, I'll start an email thread with you regardless.

For comparison, here's how my old 40 Doyle fits:

blue.jpg


..compared to the new, Mink one (have a look at the sleeves)
mink.jpg


I don't know if hot washing it is going to make it fit right, and I don't want to void the return policy by doing so. I could use an opinion on how much it's going to shrink before I do.

I'm not what I'd call fashionable (note cargo pants and tie dye, heh) but I really like Epaulet and it's helping me find a sense of style slowly but surely. So thanks. As an East Coast outdoorsman, I really like my woolrich donegal tweed! The tweet jacket fits good so if I have to trade the mink doyle in for a smaller size, know that the donegal tweed fits great too, so I'll want to try and match that - not sure which spec those were manufactured to. I know it's a slightly different cut in a sinclair.
 
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GentlemanJeff

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Thanks Eva and all, makes sense to me now. I'm unsure whether to keep / hot wash it or to send it back and get say, a 38. Eva, I'll start an email thread with you regardless.

For comparison, here's how my old 40 Doyle fits:

View attachment 1540437

..compared to the new, Mink one (have a look at the sleeves)View attachment 1540438

I don't know if hot washing it is going to make it fit right, and I don't want to void the return policy by doing so. I could use an opinion on how much it's going to shrink before I do.

I'm not what I'd call fashionable (note cargo pants and tie dye, heh) but I really like Epaulet and it's helping me find a sense of style slowly but surely. So thanks. As an East Coast outdoorsman, I really like my woolrich donegal tweed!
Is the body length about the same there?

I can only offer my recent experience: I got a natural Sashiko that arrived very large but hot washed down to be approximately the same size as an indigo sashiko I got with what I think was the OG run in 2017. The sleeves shrunk a lot and the body length shrunk a little.

Topically, I got a pine sashiko in 2018 that was a bit shorter in the body length and arm. I go back and forth on whether I prefer the size of the shorter one or longer one, but they're close enough that it's not some big deal.
 

banjozombie

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Is the body length about the same there?

I can only offer my recent experience: I got a natural Sashiko that arrived very large but hot washed down to be approximately the same size as an indigo sashiko I got with what I think was the OG run in 2017. The sleeves shrunk a lot and the body length shrunk a little.

Topically, I got a pine sashiko in 2018 that was a bit shorter in the body length and arm. I go back and forth on whether I prefer the size of the shorter one or longer one, but they're close enough that it's not some big deal.
The length is definitely longer. My old doyle comes down to about the middle of my rear, and the new mink one goes slightly past the bottom of my rear.
 

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