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sartoria vacua

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making a nowadays rarish sf visit, and rewarded w/ learning this music is out there for the knowing. Great to hear this level of artistic achievement from the thread crowd! Thanks @Epaulet for encouraging this kind of space.
 

Epaulet

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This looks like a fantastic boot
Thanks! Yeah I'm really thrilled with it. We've actually sold five so far, which is big for a new brand and easily the most

Hi, is there an update on the first round of preorder sashikos? Think the last update was in early November when you said they would be ready in a few weeks. Will we be receiving them by xmas?
Ditto, can’t wait for my mink Doyle
I've got all three shapes (Doyle, Kamigata, Rivet Chino) in work as we speak. We hit some huge delays with fabric shipping from Japan and our contractor having rolling shutdowns due to COVID. At this point, I think Doyles & Kamigatas are realistic by the end of the year, and Rivet Chinos right in early January.

I'm really sorry for the delay with that. At this point, it's just waiting for labor to finish. All of the materials are here, everything is cut and prepped. It's just going through sewing and assembly way slower than usual.

In other preorder news.. I should have a large delivery of tweed Sinclairs by about Tuesday 12/15. That's going to be our Woolrich prerorder items (Donegal & Herringbone) and a few new mid-weight woolens for open stock.

Hello Friends. It's been nice to read the past few pages of responses here after being away from the forum for some time. Inspired me to share a bit. I'm a professional musician, so I've been effectively out of work (minus some teaching, which was around 1/4 of my income) since March. As a consequence, I haven't worn any of my favorite clothes (mostly from Epaulet and then my lovely footwear collection) since then, and certainly haven't had the means to buy anything. I certainly do miss visiting this thread several times a day, seeing everyone's fit pics and sharing my own.

About a month ago Eva reached out to me on facebook and invited me to share some of my music with the community. I appreciated the thought, but just felt kind of self-conscious about it. I have more or less "official" channels for self-promotion, and always felt shy about taking advantage of other platforms that weren't necessarily "my own." But reading the very frank and sincere conversations today after logging in for the first time in a while inspired me to finally post something.

Well, since the age of 13 (I'm 42 now), I've devoted my life to playing the saxophone, both as a private event contractor and as a touring artist and bandleader. I can't do any of those things anymore (it's even challenging to find time to practice at home due to needing to supervise my kids' home schooling and then being on Zoom for online saxophone lessons in the evenings) obviously, and probably won't for another year, which is super depressing. Nevertheless, my record label decided to go ahead and release a new album that I recorded in London in May 2019, even though our EU and UK touring was canceled. It's actually gotten quite a bit of positive press and reception (more than my past 8 records, actually), which is starting to make me feel like I'm actually a musician again. Ha.

Anyway, I know there are a few jazz fans here (and a few vinyl collectors), so I hope you old friends won't mind if I share some music with you tonight. The album is called "Way of the Cairns," and it's a suite of original compositions inspired by Acadia National Park. Here are two video singles, "Darkest Night" and "Star Party." I hope you all enjoy it! (Y'all may recognize my jacket)

"Darkest Night"



"Star Party"



Thanks again, Eva, for providing this space!
--Patrick
Thank you so much for posting Patrick.. you're an awesome musician!

thanks man! I think you’re going to like the vinyl. It’s a beautiful package. Bicolor discs and lovely gatefold with some stunning photography.

View attachment 1510435
Good lord that's beautiful
 

Epaulet

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That's amazing. How does Cameo deliver the messages? Are you able to download and do whatever you want with it? I really want to have Redman leave the outgoing message for voicemail, but I wasn't sure if that would be something they'd allow.
Hmm I'm not sure... a friend bought this for me and sent me the video via Imessage. I guess it's emailed to you? The only limitation that I know of is using it for business promotions.

So I can probably upload to youtube and show it off as I've done, but I can't start a new financial planning company called "Something for the Monies" and show this video as evidence of Montell's tacit endorsement.

(I laughed at that way harder than I should have. Like it actually got painful and felt like I broke something in my larynx)
 

Epaulet

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Real quick.. just launched this shirt:

1) We took Yoshiwa chambray, bleached it out, and then left it in the sun. It turned a beautiful greencast color that I've never seen before.

2) You can order it here and use the code chain15 to save 15%

3) It shrank a full size, and that's accounted for in the item. Just order your normal size. If you buy a Large, I'm going to ship you a tagged XL that fits just like a Large. It's fully preshrunk and won't change from what you receive, save for maybe stretching back out by a negligible degree

4) This sizing thing means that Smalls are available in this shirt. I don't usually stock that size, so great opportunity to pick something up if that's what you wear.

5) It's ridiculously soft and comfortable. Looks boss under any brown or navy jacket.

6) We left the buttons on this batch and they got bleached to a really pretty caramel tone

Dusty Lichen Main.jpg
Dusty Lichen Cuff.jpg

Dusty Lichen Under Jacket.jpg
 

glarue

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I've never seen the kind of construction used on the Wilhelm chino button fly before, where the fly facing is tacked around the buttonholes - does it have a specific purpose and/or a name?

AE199781-D7F6-40A9-925A-94189ECAFEFE.jpeg
 

Epaulet

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I've never seen the kind of construction used on the Wilhelm chino button fly before, where the fly facing is tacked around the buttonholes - does it have a specific purpose and/or a name?

View attachment 1510848
Hmm wish that I knew. I think that we just used a Hertling Garand pant as the reference for that.
 

hpreston

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I've never seen the kind of construction used on the Wilhelm chino button fly before, where the fly facing is tacked around the buttonholes - does it have a specific purpose and/or a name?

View attachment 1510848
I have several button fly trousers from other manufacturers, and even amongst the same manufacturer, some have the tack between the button, some do not.
 

glarue

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hpreston said:
I have several button fly trousers from other manufacturers, and even amongst the same manufacturer, some have the tack between the button, some do not.
Given that the Wilhelms are the only pair I have with it, I'm still getting used to buttoning it (large-ish hands). I was mostly just wondering what the functional idea behind it is, but I appear to have uncovered one of life's great mysteries.
 

hpreston

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I have found on button fly trousers (not jeans) that don’t have it, sometimes (rarely though) the flap on the outside, covering the buttons, can get folded back in itself when sitting thus showing all the buttons. The tacks keep the flap secured to the piece of fabric with the button holes in it.
 

glarue

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I have found on button fly trousers (not jeans) that don’t have it, sometimes (rarely though) the flap on the outside, covering the buttons, can get folded back in itself when sitting thus showing all the buttons. The tacks keep the flap secured to the piece of fabric with the button holes in it.
Makes being a secret exhibuttonist much more difficult.
 

alkydrinker

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Got my custom Sinclair today and can’t wait to wear it to the 2003 NBA draft:

Sinclair2.png

All kidding aside, after all the delays, my jacket was made 1.25” too long (I asked to increase body length by 2” - as I'm 6'2" - and it was increased by 3.25”) and the buttons placed too low despite my email to Epaulet 2 days after placing the order concerned about button placement and asking them to not lower the buttoning point (my email was never responded to).

So now back to the task of trying to get an email communication going to start the return.

EDIT: This jacket is supposed to be a size 42, however just checked the pit-to-pit chest measurement and it's 23.5", matching the specs of a 44, not a 42. This comes a couple weeks after returning a 42 Doyle that measured like a 44. However, my two older Doyles are dead on 22.5", matching the website specs.
There was some fuzzy messaging several pages ago with Eva talking about small changes to the patterns (making everything bigger) and I'm convinced everything is now spec'd larger with the factory ...which is kindof maddening that they can't just update the website to be upfront about this.

2nd EDIT: Epaulet promptly got back to me and acknowledged/approved my return, which is all fine and dandy. Still, it's all such a waste. If the jacket was made as it was supposed to: 1.25" shorter, a chest measurement that matched a size 42 (instead of a 44), and buttons not lowered (as I requested), I would have been a happy customer and Epaulet could have profited instead of lost on the deal.Not to mention now I lose on return shipping costs, the annoying trip to the post office, etc.
As much as I like their designs, I think Epaulet lost me as a customer. IMO, they are failing on the basic fundamental thing that a custom order clothier is tasked with doing...making custom clothes to spec. It's even more annoying because I think they are intentionally doing it. I think they changed how the sizes are spec'd with their factory (basically everything is made one size bigger), but they kept their size charts the same and aren't telling customers. Like, WHY??? I was asked by Epaulet to try to shrink my ill fitting Sinclair in the washer/dryer (which wouldn't fix the button placement) ....but is that a smart strategy? Sell everything too big and ask customers to try to shrink them, rather than making them as spec and recommending cold water/hang dry or dry clean?
I still have one more outstanding order for a Sashiko Doyle in size 42 and I'm 95% sure it'll arrive fitting as a 44 and it'll be another $16 loss for me to send the thing back across the country.
Epaulet really needs to get in front of this problem.
 
Last edited:

scoobmx

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Got my custom Sinclair today and can’t wait to wear it to the 2003 NBA draft:

View attachment 1511786
All kidding aside, after all the delays, my jacket was made 1.25” too long (I asked to increase body length by 2” - as I'm 6'2" - and it was increased by 3.25”) and the buttons placed too low despite my email to Epaulet 2 days after placing the order concerned about button placement and asking them to not lower the buttoning point (my email was never responded to).

So now back to the task of trying to get an email communication going to start the return.

EDIT: This jacket is supposed to be a size 42, however just checked the pit-to-pit chest measurement and it's 23.5", matching the specs of a 44, not a 42. This comes a couple weeks after returning a 42 Doyle that measured like a 44. However, my two older Doyles are dead on 22.5", matching the website specs.
There was some fuzzy messaging several pages ago with Eva talking about small changes to the patterns (making everything bigger) and I'm convinced everything is now spec'd larger with the factory ...which is kindof maddening that they can't just update the website to be upfront about this.

2nd EDIT: Epaulet promptly got back to me and acknowledged/approved my return, which is all fine and dandy. Still, it's all such a waste. If the jacket was made as it was supposed to: 1.25" shorter, a chest measurement that matched a size 42 (instead of a 44), and buttons not lowered (as I requested), I would have been a happy customer and Epaulet could have profited instead of lost on the deal.Not to mention now I lose on return shipping costs, the annoying trip to the post office, etc.
As much as I like their designs, I think Epaulet lost me as a customer. IMO, they are failing on the basic fundamental thing that a custom order clothier is tasked with doing...making custom clothes to spec. It's even more annoying because I think they are intentionally doing it. I think they changed how the sizes are spec'd with their factory (basically everything is made one size bigger), but they kept their size charts the same and aren't telling customers. Like, WHY??? I was asked by Epaulet to try to shrink my ill fitting Sinclair in the washer/dryer (which wouldn't fix the button placement) ....but is that a smart strategy? Sell everything too big and ask customers to try to shrink them, rather than making them as spec and recommending cold water/hang dry or dry clean?
I still have one more outstanding order for a Sashiko Doyle in size 42 and I'm 95% sure it'll arrive fitting as a 44 and it'll be another $16 loss for me to send the thing back across the country.
Epaulet really needs to get in front of this problem.
I feel ya man. I also had a sinclair that measured up a size too big. It’s disappointing but I returned it for store credit so I can keep supporting the brand. I think in the end she will make it right for you. It’s good to get the issues out there though.
 

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