1. Styleforum Gives - Holiday Charity Auction 7: A Made-to-Measure suit from Lanieri

    We are very proud to present this year's edition of the Styleforum Holiday Charity Auctions, this year in support of the Ronald McDonald House Charities of Spokane (www.rmhcspokane.org). Each Auction lasts 24 hours. Please follow and bid on all the auctions.

    The 6th auction of the year is for a Made-to-measure suit from Lanieri. Please bid often and generously here

    Fok and the Styleforum Team.

    Dismiss Notice
Dismiss Notice

STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Epaulet shop - Official Affiliate thread

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by LA Guy, Apr 1, 2009.

Tags:
  1. Epaulet

    Epaulet Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    8,440
    Likes Received:
    4,465
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2008
    Location:
    New York City / Los Angeles
    
    Very cool! 1) Typically the natural color variance of fabric is a concern when you're trying to make a suit. But in the case of very dark fabrics like this hopsack, it's not really an issue. Yes, there is some tone variance from batch to batch, but that color is so dark that it's really not noticeable at all. We've been running the same hopsack for years, and I've had guys buy the matching pant or jacket 12 months after the first piece. As long as your first piece isn't heavily dry cleaned then you shouldn't see a difference. And even if you've dry-cleaned the hell out if it, it's still pretty minimal and works fine IMO. But shade variations are something to be conscious of with lighter colored fabric. We'll do OTR Grey Hopsack suit separates this season and those all have to come from the same exact dye lot. 2) It's non-traditional as a suit jacket, but works very well. And nothing's wrong with non-traditional. We've had many guys wear the open-patch, MOP button Napoli as the top half of a suit. It looks very cool and should suffice as formal enough in nearly any setting. 3) We stock Rudy size runs up to 38 in both shops. If you're in NYC you can also schedule a time to meet with Matt (just confirm what store he's at on a given day) and bring in a pair of your own pants that fit you well. He'll measure them out, and we can figure out your closest Rudy size. We'll either nail it completely, or it will be close enough for minor tailoring to dial it in.
    Very cool! Thanks for stopping by, and that sweatshirt looks great on you!
    It's an exciting time for menswear. We're seeing a move away from rigid Americana/Workwear/#Menswear styles and more openness towards new designs. We're not going to go all Rick Owens on you guys and make a Hellraiser-ish leather apron, but we're jazzed to introduce some new styles and shapes - primarily though the EPLA line. Back in my Saks days, I bought a lot of black clothing and footwear, and it's cool. The trend was against it over the past few years, but I think that it's coming back and we're going to roll it out in a lot of our items this year. We'll still be rolling with our usual grey/navy/brown/tan/olive color schemes, but black will just be an option available in more items from us.
    Sure, and thanks for asking! I like to say that both Southwick and Samuelsohn are great values at their respective price points. Kind of like Alden and VASS. Southwick makes a half-canvassed jacket for a solid price (and a crazy good price in the world of factory finds). Their constructed shoulder is respected as one of the best around, and it cuts a nice shape without looking too built up. Their jackets are very dependable, and we've had many first-time suiting customers pick up their pieces and wear the hell out of them. They look good on the first wear and hold up well. Their MTO program is affordable and has a lot of flexibility. IMO it's a better option than the similar imported competitive pieces out there. Samuelsohn is a few steps above Southwick in both price and quality. Their jackets are fully canvassed and they make their shoulders by hand. And that soft shoulder is BRILLIANT. Personally, it's the best one that I've seen in North America. And Samuelsohn is not cheap, but is a really exceptional value for the price. Taxes are a part of this. Canadians do not pay tax on fabric when it's imported into a company that does production in Canada. This can be nearly a 25% cost in the States. When we get the finished garments from Canada, they come in tax free due to NAFTA. We'd pay duty and a lot of shipping on a finished garment from Italy. The end result is a seriously good price on a great jacket, especially when you're using expensive, premium fabric. The 100% cashmere jacket that we carry is $1100. It's certainly an expensive item, but I don't think you could find an equivalent item for anywhere near that price - at least not on some kind of psycho markdown. I was really attracted to work with them for this reason, and we were privileged to design our own slim-fit model with them.
    If you're looking for wools, then the Super 120s and Hopsacks are our best selling and most versatile trousers. Especially in navy and grey. If you want to start with one trouser and see how you like it, then Grey Super 120s is our best-selling workhorse.
    Oh yes. We'll have our Epaulet in-house shirts by New England, our new in-house shirts made by Gitman, and a full line of EPLA casual woven shirting. Should start coming in the next few weeks.
    Not on this item - the wool cuff is part of the deal. But I'm playing with the idea of more slim trousers. You'll see a lot more shapes this season for bottoms. Right now we're planning: Walt & Rudy Trousers Driggs Trousers (washed, slimmer than the Walt, lower rise) Rivet Chino Ribbed Cuff Chino Wilshire Jean Fairfax (Rudy-fit) Jean But I'll surely come up with more stuff. We'll work to keep the sizing largely consistent so the same size will roughly work across all of the new shapes.
    MTO's for Southwick cost $100 over the stock price. With that upcharge, you can specify the buttons and choose either suede or self fabric patches. Unfortunately, we can't add patches to OTR items (although you can remove patches easily)
     


  2. bearspoke

    bearspoke Active Member

    Messages:
    31
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    May 24, 2012
    Location:
    NYC



    Thanks to all for your input!
     


  3. chrispy650

    chrispy650 Senior Member

    Messages:
    389
    Likes Received:
    52
    Joined:
    Dec 28, 2012
    Location:
    SoCal
    I want that EPLA sweater! When will we be able to purchase those online?
     


  4. nathanl

    nathanl Senior Member

    Messages:
    354
    Likes Received:
    26
    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2011
    Location:
    Seattle, WA
    I did a MTO grey hopsack jacket months after ordering the trousers (and after the grey hopsack was restocked) - they look look the same to me. And I'm used to working graphic assets with super-high attention to detail. YMMV, though.
     


  5. FrankCowperwood

    FrankCowperwood Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    7,886
    Likes Received:
    9,213
    Joined:
    May 23, 2011
    Location:
    The Second City
    Full EP rigout tooday. EPLA Western shirt over EPLA olive tee, Rust steep twill Walts, and burnished scotchgrain WWII Carmina boots.

    [​IMG]

    And here's an awkward angle photo of the boots since they are hidden in the snow in the shot above.

    [​IMG]
     


  6. El Argentino

    El Argentino Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    8,081
    Likes Received:
    1,790
    Joined:
    Jun 28, 2010
    Location:
    Where the Truckee waters flow
    Anyone have the Japanese Twill Aubergine Walts - thoughts on the fabric? Are they "too purple" for a conservative office environment?

    Mirin' the fabric and considering an order before the new Rudy order system goes up next week. Considering two: the Aubergine and then UK Navy Sanded Canvas to kick off my summer-weight trousers in style.
     


  7. Todd V

    Todd V Senior Member

    Messages:
    863
    Likes Received:
    103
    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2010
    Location:
    Fill-uff-y-a
    

    I work in a conservative office and my thought was yes, far too purple for work. However, I'm in a charcoal suit mod days. I returned them because the size was wrong but might get them for spring.
     


  8. scottcw

    scottcw Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    1,108
    Likes Received:
    205
    Joined:
    Dec 29, 2009
    Location:
    Supportland
    

    Same experience.
     


  9. Epaulet

    Epaulet Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    8,440
    Likes Received:
    4,465
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2008
    Location:
    New York City / Los Angeles
    

    Aubergine is pretty purple. I'd say that their wearability depends on how conservative you mean. If you were able to wear those wool rivets to work without an issue, then I think that these would be no problem. They're not any louder than that.

    I absolutely love purple trousers. A nice way to wear them is not turn it up to 11, and make everything else very undersated. Navy jacket, white shirt, navy tie with subtle pattern. PURPLE TROUSERS, and snuff suede shoes. They're the one part of your fit that's really calling out.


    Good to see those boots being put to a proper test!


    We should have them online for next week. They came out great - they're available in grey and navy, and go for $95


    We purchased a lot of that fabric last season - all from the same dye lot - so we were able to do concurrent production runs of jackets and trousers.

    We'll do the same this year - so if you buy a grey trouser next month then you can buy a matching jacket for it anywhere up to June or so. But if you bought a trouser/jacket last year, then chances are you'll see some shade variation if you try to buy the matching piece from this year's fabric. Not a huge amount, mind you - and probably subtle enough that most guys wouldn't care. But it will be there.
     


  10. applky

    applky Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    2,083
    Likes Received:
    701
    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2011
    Had thought the wool cuff was part of the Driggs Trouser, but I see now that they're separate items. Looking forward to seeing how the Driggs comes out!
     


  11. nathanl

    nathanl Senior Member

    Messages:
    354
    Likes Received:
    26
    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2011
    Location:
    Seattle, WA
    

    Is there any of this grey left to special order another matching pair of Walts?
     


  12. Epaulet

    Epaulet Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    8,440
    Likes Received:
    4,465
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2008
    Location:
    New York City / Los Angeles
    Sample Show!

    This past week was huge for new samples and fabrics. Lots of good stuff to show. Everything here is from the EPLA line. We'll have some new EPNY merchandise coming shortly as well.

    First up is our Western shirt with a hand-distressed finish. It's amazing to see how these are finished. They're made in denim, put through both an enzyme wash and a stone wash, and then sanded by hand while they're still wet. One more rinse and it's all done. Our distressing guy is phenomenal at this...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Next is our EPLA overdyed oxford. We'll launch the full EPLA shirting collection within 6-8 weeks. This is made in the same factory as the denim shirts and has reinforced double-needle seams. These will be a nice casual compliment to the EPNY shirts and the upcoming Gitman pieces. I don't have final pricing yet, but it's going to be very good. Oxford is still Japanese pima cotton, and we're using an organic overdye. The hand on these is amazing - easily the best feeling OD shirt that I've touched.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Got some shots of the Wilshire in Overdyed Black. This is the same 14oz Kaihara denim with a natural black dye wash on top of it. As you wear the jeans, the black will slowly wash out and reveal the blue underneath. It's also gives a more uniform black finish than black denim as both the warp and weft are dyed black. Should be here in about two months. We'll do a dark navy OD model too.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    And I've gotten a bunch of PM's about the upcoming Grey Selvedge Wilshire Jeans. They'll arrive in about 3 weeks, along with a restock of indigo and the new White Selvedge. Here's a pic of the grey laid alongside the indigo. It's an awesome color, and pretty rare to get from a good Japanese mill. We'll have enough to make about 75 jeans.

    [​IMG]
     


  13. JilSlander

    JilSlander Senior Member

    Messages:
    750
    Likes Received:
    217
    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2013
    Damn, Epaulet is going to make me broke.

    Is that same Black OD Kaihara denim going to be used for the Denim Jacket as well?
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2014


  14. Epaulet

    Epaulet Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    8,440
    Likes Received:
    4,465
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2008
    Location:
    New York City / Los Angeles
    

    Haha, that's what we're here for. The Denim Jacket is actually made out of 14oz Cone Mills White Oak Selvedge. Same denim that we used for the Selvedge Chino. We'll OD it black too.


    Not of the original run, we sold out of that months ago. It's worth ordering a pant from the new fabric though. Chances are that it will look just fine worn together with the jacket (although I can't guarantee that). Worst case, you end up with a new pair of staple grey trousers.


    You know it! I think that the Driggs is going to be your jam. Planning delivery on that around 2/15
     


  15. rydenfan

    rydenfan Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    9,955
    Likes Received:
    3,353
    Joined:
    Dec 22, 2012
    That grey looks killer! I cannot wait
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by