Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by LA Guy, Apr 1, 2009.
Nice. Which shops?
Got my Wilshires today, and they're great but unfortunately I gotta send em back. Ordered my Rudy size and they're basically painted on from the waist down to the knee.
Some thoughts on the upcoming Bond fit, provided you haven't solidified any sizing yet...in the size 34s I got, the waist was a perfect fit, so ideally I'd like the same waist in a 34, but with some extra thigh room (at least an inch measured around, or 1/2" laid flat. 3/4" increase laid flat might work even better. The rise was pretty good for me. And then maybe increase the knee and leg opening another 1/2" as well. These had an 8" leg opening, so probably 8.5" would work better for me. I think something like that would be my ideal denim fit, which is pretty impossible to find right now in any higher-end selvedge brands.
That was me! Glad you like it.
I sent Water Ave. Coffee (right across from my office) and Ristretto (a personal fave).
This sounds good. I'd been hammering out some measurements and for a tagged-34 in Bond/Rudy, I would love to see (in traditional BiG, laid-flat measurement style):
Upper Thigh: 13
That's the money, right thur.
Alright....here's the caramel duck jacket with rivets...these photos were real quick and dirty but curious if you still think it works. Personally, once I tried and downplayed with the boots I think it could work as a real casual look.
I like it. More than I probably should.
This is perfect, and spelled out much more clearly than in my post. I also don't know how to measure the seat properly, but I'd definitely need some extra room there too.
Tricky - I definitely think that looks cool, and could easily work in the right setting. Not the type of suit for a business meeting, but I could see this looking like the best suit at a casual summer wedding, amidst a see of ill-fitting seersucker and guys wearing worsted wool who don't know how to dress for a summer wedding.
Said it before, and I'll say it again...that damn coat looks bespoke on you man...you're very lucky! Sleeves may be a little short, but thats picking hard.
I had nearly the exact same fit issues. I was pretty bummed, because they are super nice jeans.
Yeah, that looks really, really good, IMO. It's a major step up from a jacket and jeans, but wouldn't look at all out of place in any casual setting. Well played.
A duck cloth suit is hilarious.
Like a denim tuxedo.
I appreciate it on an ironic level but would not wear regularly...
the matching top and bottom is too much for me.
It's been a minute, since I checked in - hope that everyone is well!
First off - let me say a huge "thank you" for all of the orders in the past few days. Between EPLA and the sale merchandise, we've got a ton of great stuff coming your way!
And since I've gotten about 20 PM's about the Wilshire jean fit, let me talk a little bit more about it here.
Matt and I cooked up the Wilshire fit after running through a bunch of different slim-straight jeans on the market, and looking at how it spoke to our overall Rivet/Walt fits. A jean is constructed differently from those other garments, and denim works it its own unique way, so the challenge was how to translate the fit. A Wilshire 32 doesn't fit or measure the same as a Rivet 32, but the goal is for a Rivet 32 customer to be pretty sure that he'll like the Wilshire in a 32.
The largest difference is in the size of the legs. The Wilshire legs are slimmer than both the Rivets and the Walts. It's not a huge difference, but we decided upon this because (1) denim does flex with a lot of wear and (2) most guys wanted a slimmer profile on their jeans for the look. If you comfortably wear a Rivet or a Walt, then the Wilshire legs should be fine on you. And if you like Epaulet clothing in general, then chances are you're going to like the overall profile of this jean. It's very cool, and would speak well to our shirts and our jackets. Many denimhead guys out there like old-school Japanese selvedge with high rises or fuller legs or whatever - but they're probably not pairing them with things like the Caine sportcoat. The idea behind the Wilshire is that you'd have a complimentary slim profile in every Epaulet garment that you're wearing.
But that does mean that anyone out there who needs/wants the Rudy fit will almost surely NOT fit into these jeans. I know this personally. I take a Rudy 34, and I don't have a hope in hell of fitting into the Wilshire comfortably. If your legs fit in the Walt/Rivet just barely, then it probably won't work. And if you routinely size up in Walt/Rudy's to get more room in the thighs and have the waist taken in, then it probably won't work.
But most guys' legs fit perfectly fine into the Walt/Rivet without feeling too snug. And for that reason, most owners of these shapes will fit into the Wilshire's legs without a problem.
But I can tell you that I've personally sold about 20 pairs of these jeans in our Santa Monica store, and I've seen this fit guys better than any other jean that we've ever had in the shop. It's a great shape. It looks cool and has some attitude, but it jives well dressed up too (as FrankCowperwood proves). And it will fade like a maniac with wear.
Jean fits are very personal, and it's more difficult to create a jean fit for everyone than it is a chino fit for everyone. Guys are more particular about jeans. But you can rest assured that a lot of thought went into this shape, and it yields the best off the rack fit that I've seen.
And - crucially - it will give you consistency that you don't ordinarily have with Japanese selvedge. It will stretch and break in, but not a crazy degree. You don't have to buy it gut-bustingly tight and then break it in. These look good from day one and the fit is largely WYSIWYG.
And we'll definitely create that Rudy fit jean for a delivery around late February and build that out as an option. Hopefully it proves popular and it's something that we can run pretty regularly. I'll do a limited run of 36 units and give it a try.
Great - thanks for picking everything up and for posting the detailed feedback!
For the jeans, the waist can absolutely be taken in by an inch. Do some research on a local tailor and find someone who can work with denim. I know that Dylan does this on nearly every jean that he owns.
My suggestion - have them size it up and tell you how much they want to take it in. Then tell them to take it in by .75% of that number. Have them take it in a little bit less than what they advise. You won't regret it.
And glad that you like the t-shirts! It's funny, most guys are finding them really fitted. But I follow you on Instagram and, let's just say that everyone at Epaulet is pretty freaking envious of your bodyfat percentage
No worries on the denim shirt. It's enzyme washed in hot water and pre-shrunk. It you cold wash/hang dry then it's not going to get smaller. It will break in a get a bit bigger with a lot of wear. Like jeans, you'll notice that it's a bit tighter when it comes out of the wash. This is natural. Denim contracts with water but will expand to its original size with a bit of wear.
Sharp as a tack!
It may be. It depends on the fit that you like - a lot of guys are into the cropped look, and the Bartlett runs a bit longer than many other similarly styled jackets out there. Best bet is to measure the length of a similar styled jacket on you and see how you dig it.
Steel Mist is an extremely wearable color. It matches up great with Navy, Medium to Dark Grey, and Black. I could see it working with a tan jacket as well.
You bet! We've got some awesome stuff coming in - including a rad dark denim LBM.
Thank you sir! I'd love to hear what you think of them
The navy captoe boot will age nicely, with the high-stress areas and creases turning a lighter shade of blue. It's hard to find a pic of really worn navy CXL, but here's an extremely worn Brown CXL 1000 Mile boot:
It's going to be along those lines. The Navy is a darker tone, so it will be more subtle than that, but pretty similar.
Natural CXL is the absolute patina king. Like unfinished leather or saddle shell cordovan, the lighter shades of oily/waxy leathers will always show the greatest change with wear.
I imagine that the Bartlett jacket's leather is more porous than your typical shoe/boot leather. Jacket leather is dyed, but wouldn't have the same tough top finishing that you'd put on shoes, as you want the jacket to be soft and wearable. Think of how much stiffer a boot feels when you first try it on than something like the Bartlett.
So that's probably what's responsible for the difference. It's soaking up the spray more and yielding less of a waterproof surface.
That said, you don't really need to use it IMO. I mean, if it's raining like hell then you probably don't want to wear a leather jacket at all. And if it gets a bit wet, just let it dry out - it will be totally fine. I've worn my Mulberry jacket, under an umbrella, on many moderately rainy days and it's fine. If it gets very wet, then let it dry out and apply a leather condition like Saphir Lotion or Pecards. But overall, you don't need to baby the Bartlett jacket.
Haha, sorry for that! I'm happy to say that Spring '14 will have the largest special-order selection for both Rudy's and Walt's that we've ever had. So they'll be a ton of options for interesting trousers.
Very nice! This is very close to what we're looking at for the pattern. The main thing is to get that extra room in the thighs and a little bit more in the seat. The rise would move up to fix the seat and the leg after the thighs gets a touch bigger so that the overall lines work.
Thanks for the feedback Mike....will hang on to the medium engineer shirt and see how it breaks in. And thanks for the kind words
Mixed views on the duck rivet suit as expected. Not sure I can pull it off but no doubt Rob, Wis, Matt and a few other rockstars here could do it right.
Great to hear I don't have to do too much to the Bartlett. Its getting more wear than anything else in my closet lately and loving the armhole gussets.
My pleasure! Thanks for all of your support, and you picked out some great stuff this season!
The caramel duck suit is a tough one. Navy duck was easy and could work even as a reasonable biz-caz outfit for a more laid back environment.
For caramel, I think that two scenarios can work. The first is to go full on Monitaly/EG/Americana and wear it with a chambray shirt, denim tie, newsboy hat, and Indy Boots.
The other - which I think you could rock pretty hard - is to keep your other pieces as simple as possible. Wear the suit with a white OCBD, white canvas Jack Purcells or Chucks, and a brown belt. The sneakers take it out of suit-land, and it's now just a cool, casual outfit. I see guys wear tan-colored corduroy suits this way. Or maybe I just imagine that I see them do that. But either way, I think that's a viable look for the Caramel suit.
Awesome! I bet that thing fits you perfectly! Thanks so much for picking it up.
Separate names with a comma.