Epaulet shop - Official Affiliate thread

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by LA Guy, Apr 1, 2009.

Tags:
  1. tigerpac

    tigerpac Senior member

    Messages:
    728
    Likes Received:
    332
    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2013
    Location:
    Hoboken
    ^Yes, they'll be cotton.... [​IMG]

    Like anything you get what you pay for, but I would agree that there's less of a 'jump' in quality of shirts once you hit a decent grade
     
  2. SeanMarcellus

    SeanMarcellus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    56
    Likes Received:
    13
    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2013
    What price would you say you hit that grade?

    Is cotton the way to go on shirts?
     
  3. StanleyVanBuren

    StanleyVanBuren Thumb Raider

    Messages:
    4,739
    Likes Received:
    18,664
    Joined:
    May 5, 2007
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    Well...

    your first mistake is quoting retail prices on items that are never meant to sell at retail. A Van Heusen shirt is a $25 shirt. That sticker that says $50 is just there to make you think you're getting a steal.

    now, between those $25-50 shirts and a $100+ shirt, yeah, you'll notice a big difference. I think the cheapest Epaulet shirts have been $110 and those will get you far better construction, far more honest methods, likely better fit, and an overall longer-lasting shirt. Then between those and, say, the ones that go for $150 or $165 on up, the only big difference will be the fabric. This will again be a noticeable difference but probably not as vast as the leap in quality when you go from $25 to above $100.

    Higher still and you get into MTM and bespoke territory, and there are certainly plenty of things that can be done to set a $300+ shirt apart from what you'd buy from Epaulet or other similar retailers of RTW shirts. That's more extreme connoisseur-level stuff that I'm guessing we don't need to get into yet.
     
  4. Costa

    Costa Senior member

    Messages:
    137
    Likes Received:
    5
    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2011
    +1

    Also from MA and I have been living in the EP tweeds lately, and do not find them too warm for indoors. Actually really comfortable in a warm office.
     
  5. NewYorkIslander

    NewYorkIslander Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    9,918
    Likes Received:
    5,424
    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2008
    Location:
    Breuckelen, NY 11209
    

    SVB is dead on with his retail assessment. Van Heusen is a cheap shirt. I think the biggest difference in terms of shirting is in fit. Whether a shirt is 100% cotton or not doesn't bother me so much, but the cheaper shorts generally have a "cheaper" fit. i love EP shirting because its honestly made (here in the USA), the fabrics are unique, but mostly the fit is awesome for me.

    I have spent $250 plus on bespoke shirts, and the quality is no different, but I find that by able to really dial in the collar style it makes it worth it for me to spend that much occasionally on a shirt. But when I'm not in a more dressy jacket and tie, the EP shirts are awesome...to go tieless, or to go with a more casual jacket and tie. But as you can see from the fit pics on the website, the guys at EP really rock the dressier EP shirts well, and they're a great fit for EP jackets (which have slimmer lapels than my standard jacketing from Ercoles, my tailor).

    You'll be stoked with the grey tweed pants...and you'll see immediately where the value comes from for expensive pants...thats where construction DOES matter more.
     
  6. tigerpac

    tigerpac Senior member

    Messages:
    728
    Likes Received:
    332
    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2013
    Location:
    Hoboken
    ^They said it better than I would have, nice posts guys.

    and NY Islander - when you guys gonna start making a bow-tie or two? Would love some in those great fabrics you use.
     
  7. SeanMarcellus

    SeanMarcellus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    56
    Likes Received:
    13
    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2013
    What about the collar points?

    Seems like the points on the collars are the fist to show the ware, they get beat up.
    Do you not put good shirts in the washer and dryer?
     
  8. FrankCowperwood

    FrankCowperwood Senior member

    Messages:
    7,139
    Likes Received:
    7,868
    Joined:
    May 23, 2011
    Location:
    The Second City
    +1 and +1 for SVB and NYI's comments.

    One thing you'll have to decide on yourself @SeanMarcellus is if the EP shirt fit is for you. Get one and try it. All you are risking is return postage.
     
  9. SeanMarcellus

    SeanMarcellus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    56
    Likes Received:
    13
    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2013
    Quality pants and shoes can last for years, is how I can justify the extra money on them.

    How would you get a shirt to last for years, wearing it. would you have to hand wash it?
     
  10. FrankCowperwood

    FrankCowperwood Senior member

    Messages:
    7,139
    Likes Received:
    7,868
    Joined:
    May 23, 2011
    Location:
    The Second City
    Well, ceteris paribus, a higher quality shirt (better construction, better fabric) is going to last longer, just as higher quality shoes and trousers will. I'm wearing a shirt I bought in 2007 right now. It's not perfect these day, but still a great shirt.

    The general rule here is cold machine wash and hang dry. I didn't bother with that in the past. I do now.

    Also, I think you may find that clothes of a certain quality go better together. So a $25 shirt may seem out of place with EP trousers.

    All just my 2 cents of course. You decide what's right for you.
     
  11. NewYorkIslander

    NewYorkIslander Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    9,918
    Likes Received:
    5,424
    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2008
    Location:
    Breuckelen, NY 11209
    


    Wash and hang dry. But I don't wear my clothes very hard like some guys do. This isn;t about what you do in your clothes either...I try and beat the hell out of my jeans, and never can get the sick fades that others manage after 2 months.
     
  12. Dbear

    Dbear Senior member

    Messages:
    4,207
    Likes Received:
    2,449
    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2011
    Location:
    San Francisco, CA
    Cold wash low tumble dry the shirts

    Whats the point of higher quality stuff if you have to baby it?
     
  13. MGoCrimson

    MGoCrimson Senior member

    Messages:
    1,227
    Likes Received:
    478
    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2013
    Location:
    Maryland
    Anyone know if all Epaulet shirts are made at the Brooks Brothers shirt factory in Garland, NC? I know at least some of the line is or was.
     
  14. Epaulet

    Epaulet Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    7,777
    Likes Received:
    3,508
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2008
    Location:
    New York City / Los Angeles
    

    Ah, that's great to hear! I was always curious to know how the Parka would perform in Canada. Fantastic. Thanks for picking it up!


    Thank all of you for buying them! That was one of the most exciting things that we've been able to do, and it's great that everyone is keen on the special order programs. We'll definitely expand this for the Springtime so that the choice of Walt/Rudy fabrics will be vastly expanded.


    I dropped a line to the fabric mill a few days ago, and I'm just waiting to hear back.

    When we first ran the Cramerton trousers, the minimums to get the fabric were HUGE and I was only able to do it by purchasing some overstock fabric from a pal at Orvis. But who knows, maybe things have changed since then. I'll report back when I know. I'm 100% sold on doing it - the fabric is really exceptional.

    The "Driggs" pant is going to be introduced in a new English Drill cotton which is a bit lighter than Cramerton, but actually pretty similar in its properties. We're angling for a January launch on that.


    Oh man, that sounds great! I'd love to make it out there some day!


    Ah man, I'm sorry that we missed you! We're officially closed on Monday and Tuesday, as I don't have any employees out here. I'm typically open on Tuesdays anyway, but we had a smattering of meetings for production work next year, so we were away that day. That's a bummer - it would have been cool to say hi in person! Hope that Disneyland was killer.


    Absolutely, Navy Hopsack is far and away our best selling sportcoat AND it's a very versatile piece.

    If you're looking for matching trousers, I'd recommend four of them:

    1) Grey Super 120s
    2) Espresso Super 120s
    3) Either the Walt in Olive Sanded UK Canvas or the Rivet Chino in Khaki Canvas / Windsor Tan
    4) The matching Navy Hopsack trousers. This works brilliantly as a whole suit. And the trousers are extremely wearable on their own


    Check this out - it's a great read. Taken from the Duchamp London site.

    THE HISTORY OF THE CHINO

    By the end of the Second World War, the US Army numbered 8.3 million men and women. They required a mountain of uniforms. After the end of the hostilities, a tidal wave of military surplus clothing swamped markets in America and Europe and millions of clothing consumers became familiar with the attractions of the chino pant.

    Chinos are, unmistakeably, military trousers. They are functional, sturdy and reliable. In their purest form chinos are made of 100% cotton twill cloth – that is a weave with small diagonal ridges – and are khaki in colour. They are flat-fronted, parallel or slightly tapered legs, with slanting side pockets and one or two back pockets.

    The mass of cheap army surplus after WW2 meant that chinos were picked up, along with blue jeans, as the uniform of the new consumer group of teenagers in the US. The pale brown cotton pants became an essential ingredient of the preppy look. Unlike denims, they were both casual and smart. Fifty years later, and sometimes in somewhat changed formats, they are still a wardrobe essential.

    But it would be wrong to think of chinos as just being a phenomenon of the second half of the 20th century. In fact, their origins go back to the mid- and late 19th century. In 1848 a British Army officer called Harry Lumsden decided the Corps of Guides he commanded on the north-west frontier between India and Afghanistan would be more suitably dressed in drab-coloured clothes rather than bright red tunics and white trousers. Using local knowledge, the cotton cloth of the uniforms was dyed in mulberry juice and the resulting drab yellowish shade was called khaki, after the Hindi or Urdu word for dust.

    From 1848, Indian or British troops wore khaki uniforms in the area and the practice was followed as the British Army as they fought for Queen Victoria and Empire in dusty campaigns such as Abyssinia (now Ethiopia) in 1867-68. Khaki was adopted as battledress colour in 1897 and by the Second Boer War in 1899-1902 the British Army were known as “Khakis”.

    Other military forces were quick to appreciate the camouflage qualities of the dull light brown shade. In the short Spanish-American war of 1898 – it was only four months long – the US army occupied the Philippines and returned singing the praises of khaki-coloured trousers they called chinos. There are various theories why the Americans should have given these cotton pants a corruption of the Spanish name for “Chinese” or “China”. Some say it was because the twill cloth was woven in China. Another version says that the pants themselves were made in China. A more fanciful explanation is that some US soldiers had their pants made by Chinese tailors in the Spanish colony.

    In any case, the comfortable and hard-wearing khaki chinos had proved their worth. They were adopted as an official US Army uniform in 1902. The utilitarian appeal of these reliable uniforms was soon picked up by the general public. In the US at least the terms “khakis” and “chinos” became interchangeable and remain so today. Levi’s introduced a line of “khakis” as early as 1906. Preppy palace Brooks Brothers started selling chinos as early as 1942. In the Second World War, US officers’ chinos were made of a quality known as Cramerton cloth – Levi’s used the same cloth for a line of post-war preppy pants.


    That's totally true. Most Americans will use the works interchangeably. But a "Chino" refers to the whole category of casual cotton trousers, while "Khaki" is more specifically referring to a casual cotton trousers in a shade of tan.


    No longer, sadly. Our Navy Label shirts were produced there, but they've been put on indefinite hold.
     
  15. Epaulet

    Epaulet Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    7,777
    Likes Received:
    3,508
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2008
    Location:
    New York City / Los Angeles
    EPLA Preview

    We're shooting everything and building it out as we speak! The Sweatshirts will be delayed by a week or so, but all of the denim and tees are here. I found a proper East LA setting for the fit shots as well...

    [​IMG]
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by