1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

Epaulet shop - Official Affiliate thread

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by LA Guy, Apr 1, 2009.

Tags:
  1. concealed

    concealed Senior member

    Messages:
    2,272
    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2012
    Location:
    404
    EDIT: GONE
     
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2014
  2. Epaulet

    Epaulet Senior member Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    7,702
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2008
    Location:
    New York City / Los Angeles
    


    Hey guys,

    So, the EPLA sportcoat is designed to be an original product, which fills a niche that I think is under-served.

    We have a strong business with LBM1911, but the jackets aren't cheap. And next season the MSRP for most of them will start at $700. They have great construction and beautiful fabrics, but they do skew towards the casual side.

    The idea on the EPLA sportcoat is to create a US-made alternative. We can't equal the construction of the Italian pieces, but I think that we can deliver a good part of the overall feel and style, and do so at a little bit north of $200 for basic fabrics. Right now, the only US-made pieces that I see in this vein are the sportcoat-ish pieces from Engineered Garments. I want to make a better fitting and better constructed item than those at about half the price. We'll have a proper lapel roll and a great shoulder/chest fit. We're going to work functional interior pockets into it.

    It will very much represent the "Los Angeles" side of our collection. If New York is true tailored pieces like the Weller and Vittorio, the LA is going to be this more casual and washed piece. It's going to be a killer item and a fantastic value! That said, the way that it's manufactured will give it some restrictions:

    1) We'll have to stick to a specific range of fabric weights. This sportcoat will not be fused or canvassed, so it won't work well with lightweight fabrics like hopsack or tropical wool. We'll use thicker items like duck canvas, corduroy, and mid-weight moleskin. Melton is probably going to be too thick, as we won't be able to finish the armhole properly. But something like our UK Donegal Tweed would work. I know that the factory can work perfectly with cotton (they make the Doyle), but I'll need to test how they handle wool pieces before we go forward with that.

    2) It's not being made at a tailored clothing house, so there unfortunately won't be any factory finds for it - we'll have to supply all of the fabrics ourselves. And it will be washed and/or dyed, so we'll need to make them in batches, and therefore we can't do individual MTO's. We should be able to swing this odd-size group buy idea, but like this first run of Doyles, it would probably take about 12 weeks for the first run to be delivered, as they have to hash out the patternwork for all of the odd and extended sizes. True Shorts and Longs would require some really extensive patternwork, so they're probably not realistic any time soon. But as this is a more casual piece (like the Doyle) it might not be such an issue. Our Doyle customers have a wide range of heights, and it still works.

    Of course, we'll still have all of these special features (MTO, Factory Finds, Short/Long, etc) on our Southwick collection - and we're going to massively expand the options for that line. You'll be able to order 2 and 3 piece suits in a huge range of fabrics.
     
    5 people like this.
  3. Louys

    Louys Senior member

    Messages:
    447
    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2012
    Was it ever mentioned whether or not the EPLA sport coat will have functional button holes or not? Some thing tells me this is going to be a sport coat that wants you to roll the sleeves every now and again.
     
  4. budapest12

    budapest12 Senior member

    Messages:
    4,038
    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2012
    ^ Sounds nice but also sounds like something that blows up that price point pretty fast.
     
  5. Epaulet

    Epaulet Senior member Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    7,702
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2008
    Location:
    New York City / Los Angeles
    

    No it won't. It will have a basic sportcoat cuff hem with two buttons. That way it can be easily shortened if need be.
     
  6. FLW

    FLW Senior member

    Messages:
    933
    Joined:
    May 20, 2011
    
    Thank you. I've backed out of buying so many lower-cost casual jackets because the cuffs were functional.

    [​IMG]
    Also, maiden voyage for this beast. Every bit as great as I had hoped.

    This was the one that I was worried about sneaking past my wife, but now it is her favorite jacket out of all that I own.

    We've heard about EPLA, Southwick, and LBM... what about Sammy? Will there be more jackets in the future?
     
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2014
    4 people like this.
  7. adamha21

    adamha21 Senior member

    Messages:
    2,334
    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2008
    Location:
    Portland, OR
    What's the timeline for the EPLA sport coat? Sounds awesome!
     
  8. Beav

    Beav Senior member

    Messages:
    292
    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2011
    Location:
    Victoria, Canada
    

    Thank you for this - I have short arms and always have to pass on jackets with finished sleeves. I'm not as much of a fan of the EPLA products as the EPNY products, but this is something that I'm sure to try out.

    Mike, if you can, would you be able to give us an idea of what sweaters you plan on stocking this fall? I waited on getting a hardie cardigan last year for too long, and by the time I was ready to spend the funds they were all gone. Even if you don't plan on stocking this again, I'm hoping to make an early purchase and would love to know what you've got planned for sweaters...

    Thanks again for these updates.
     
  9. Epaulet

    Epaulet Senior member Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    7,702
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2008
    Location:
    New York City / Los Angeles
    

    Very cool! Yes, I'm a firm believer in non-working buttons for OTR pieces - we have that on every branded and co-branded jacket that we offer.

    Even the Vittorio. And believe me, Italian dudes WANT those buttons to work. That was a bit of a fight.

    For sweaters, we'll have both the Hardie Cardigan again (I believe in Navy and Tobacco), and our "Heirloom Cardigan" made by Northern Watters Knitters in Canada will return again. We'll also do a smattering of Scottish crewnecks and shawl pullovers too. From the LA side, we'll do heavyweight fleece crewnecks and hoodies. They'll be plenty to go around.


    I should get a sample this week which (hopefully) is the final one. I'll report back once it arrives. Once we approve the final sample, we'd be about 6 weeks out from the first delivery. Thanks!


    Whoa, that looks boss! Glad that you're enjoying it! And yes sir, we'll have a few new Samuelsohn styles this Fall.
     
  10. ahjota

    ahjota Senior member

    Messages:
    2,592
    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2008
    Location:
    Portland
    What's the MTO Trouser Deposit item on the site for? Do I need to use that to buy MTO?
     
  11. Todd V

    Todd V Senior member

    Messages:
    862
    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2010
    Location:
    Fill-uff-y-a
    Mike -- do you have an ETA on the new Southwick MTO program? I'm anxious to order a suit or two for fall!
     
  12. aldenfan

    aldenfan Senior member

    Messages:
    824
    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2013
    +1
     
  13. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

    Messages:
    10,840
    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2013
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    couldn't you just make the jackets unfinished sleeves, and we have a tailor put on the buttons ourselves? that way you don't have to fight with the italians, and we can choose if we want functional/non-functional cuffs?
     
    2 people like this.
  14. El Argentino

    El Argentino Senior member

    Messages:
    7,987
    Joined:
    Jun 28, 2010
    Location:
    Where the Truckee waters flow
    As someone with no intention of going to a tailor solely to complete a sleeve, I wouldn't agree. It's a sub-$200 jacket.
     
    3 people like this.
  15. L.I.T.

    L.I.T. Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    74
    Joined:
    Apr 23, 2010
    Hey Mike will the EPLA sportcoat be washable?
     
  16. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

    Messages:
    10,840
    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2013
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    i meant on the more expensive jackets.
     
  17. stmaier

    stmaier Senior member

    Messages:
    541
    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2013
    Mike-

    Any update on the Fairfax jean?
     
  18. Epaulet

    Epaulet Senior member Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    7,702
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2008
    Location:
    New York City / Los Angeles
    

    Still in development, unfortunately. I'm also jean-less until the Fairfax comes out.


    Absolutely. They'll all come pre-washed to adjust for shrinkage too.


    We do this to a degree right now. If you purchase a Southwick jacket, then the button holes are not actually stitched. It's a form of "soft finishing." You can make the sleeves functional or easily have them shortened. But you can also wear it straight off the rack, which most of our customers do. I think that's the best compromise, as it's an extra task if you have to always take it straight to a tailor after receiving the jacket.

    MTO jackets can be ordered fully unfinished or with functional buttons.

    The EPLA sportcoat will come with the same soft finishing that I described above. It shouldn't be an issue to have someone make it into functional buttons. We're only allotting two buttons per cuff though, as a bit of an old-school Ivy throwback.


    Working on it for this week! I've got a bunch of incredible Rivet Chino Factory Finds and the Trouser MTO's to go live as well
     
  19. Don L

    Don L Senior member

    Messages:
    2,715
    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2012
    Location:
    MA
    Golden Hopsack's from last year

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. StanleyVanBuren

    StanleyVanBuren Senior member

    Messages:
    4,726
    Joined:
    May 5, 2007
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    +1 to this. Having bought a few casual jackets from Italy recently, the sleeve length is a big risk as they seem to all come with functional sleeve buttons, even the jackets that sell for only €100-200. If you're close to a normal size, you can take a gamble, but it still seems a little crazy given how simple -- and moreover, common -- an alteration it is without the working buttonholes. It makes much more sense to let people pay a tailor to make them functional if that's what they really want, and it would seem like it would make it easier to sell quite a few more jackets as well, so I really don't understand the practice beyond it being a gimmick that everyone thinks they want when they don't know any better.
     
    2 people like this.

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by