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Epaulet shop - Official Affiliate thread

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by LA Guy, Apr 1, 2009.

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  1. tricky

    tricky Senior member

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    Love the Carmina's!
     
  2. tricky

    tricky Senior member

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    Deleted...double post (iPhone woes)
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2013
  3. stmaier

    stmaier Senior member

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    Were you guys going to offer all of the Rivet fabric options in the Rudy MTO program or just the duck canvas? Would love to get the Khaki, Gunmetal, Pumice, and Brushed Graphite in the Rudy fit.
     
  4. Omar1223

    Omar1223 Senior member

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    mike or matt or anyone else on the thread, can you compare the navy label OCBDs with the custom ones? is the fabric the same? i bought a navy label white and blue and am wondering if i should get a special order OCBD as well hahah
     
  5. macjedi

    macjedi Senior member

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    I'd love to get in on the MTO sport coats, but I'm concerned about the fit. I recently had to return a couple jackets from Howard Yount because the arm holes and pockets were set too low for me. I'm 5'5", 130lbs. 36S drop 6.

    The measurements look good, and the MTO options allow you to shorten the length, but I'm concerned that the "balance" will still be set lower. In other words, wouldn't I be ordering a shorter "regular-sized" jacket; opposed to an actual "short-sized" jacket? If this is true, would it make sense for me to order and return an OTR jacket to see how the unaltered length and fit is?

    Anyhoo, I'd love to get some perspective on this. If anyone has any advice or experience that would help me … I'd really appreciate it.

    Thanks!!
     
  6. NewYorkIslander

    NewYorkIslander Senior member

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    This is always a tough one with sportcoats...as much as measurements and your stats help, nothing tells the tale like trying the jacket on. I've learned a ton through my bespoke experience, and befriending my tailor, and this is one of those things. If you can get into NYC to do this I would. If not, maybe you can find a cheap one on B&S ...
     
  7. Beatlegeuse

    Beatlegeuse Senior member

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    macjedi - I've ordered long size jackets from Epaulet, and the whole pattern is changed to compensate for the extra length. So if you're worried about balance, you can rest assured that it won't be just a regular sized jacket with an extra inch lopped off the overall length of the body and arms. However, if you're worried about the rest of the fit, it would be best to try on one of the stock jackets and go from there.
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. jimney

    jimney Senior member

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    Do the Napoli and Caine navy hopsack sportcoats use the same fabric? They look different in the pictures, but I'm not sure if that is a color-balance issue. And is the fabric for the MTO navy hopsack sportcoats the same as one of them?
     
  9. wj4

    wj4 Senior member

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    This morning, digi cam chinos:
    [​IMG]


    This evening, plum chinos, to meet up with Mike and Adele!
    [​IMG]
     
    2 people like this.
  10. thecool85

    thecool85 Senior member

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    I totally should have gone to this. Where did you guys go?
     
  11. wj4

    wj4 Senior member

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    Gorbals in downtown.
     
  12. NewYorkIslander

    NewYorkIslander Senior member

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    W looks great man, love the cardigan. Everytime I see you guys post in LA, I'm so jealous of the sun and apparent warmth. I'd really love to live in a place like that one day...
     
  13. wj4

    wj4 Senior member

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    Thanks, Rob. I wish I had more time to put together the outfit. I came home from work, changed, and took off.

    The air in downtown isn't the best though. Apparently someone was celebrating 420 a bit early and we got high indirectly as a result while walking, haha :foo:


    Thanks so much for the good food and conversation, Mike and Adele!
     
    Last edited: Apr 20, 2013
  14. applky

    applky Senior member

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    As Beatlegeuse said, if you order a short or long, the entire pattern is adjusted. Same if you special order an in-between size (I wear a 37 Napoli, for instance). One thing to bear in mind: HY's shoulders tend to be broader than Epaulet's. An HY 36 has a 17" shoulder, which is the shoulder measurement on an Epaulet 38. If you had a little room in the shoulders with the HY, an Epaulet 36R might be perfect for you anyway. Matt, Mike, and Adele are always happy to give really detailed sizing advice over e-mail or over the phone.
     
    Last edited: Apr 20, 2013
  15. applky

    applky Senior member

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    Yeah it's the same navy hopsack fabric for each. I special ordered a Napoli in navy hopsack a while back -- it's the same fabric.
     
    Last edited: Apr 20, 2013
  16. macjedi

    macjedi Senior member

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    Thanks for the great comments fellas! I'm much more confident. I really want a lightly constructed hopsack, so I think I'll try a ready-made before I go for the MTO.

    Sorry if this is already been discussed in detail, but is the OTR Caine equivalent to the Southwick MTO half-canvassed 3/8 lined option? And the Napoli equivalent to the Southwick MTO unconstructed 3/8 lined option? Just trying to get my facts straight. :)

    Thanks again!!!
     
  17. leftofthedial

    leftofthedial Senior member

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    That's something we'll do in the future. For now only the Leaf, Navy and Caramel duck is available for the Rudy. The UK sanded canvas is a nice option and pretty similar to the canvas we use for Rivet Chinos. We have a nice khaki, a grey (gunmetal), navy and olive.

    The fabric is similar. They're both Japanese Oxford cloth. I'll say that the MTO options are a bit more stiff at first, but break in beautifully. At this point I think I personally own at least 6 different versions of the blue OCBD. It will feel similar to the Navy Label after a few wears and washes.

    These guys are correct. Everything is done on a CAD machine, so it compensates for the proportions of a short, long or Xlong based on the regular pattern.

    And you're correct, the OTR Caine is the 3/8 lined option and the Napoli is the unconstructed 3/8 lined option. Both jackets are half canvassed. The Caine, Weller and Daltrey shapes use Southwick's natural shoulder. The Napoli has no padding in the shoulder. It's slightly more structured than an LBM or Boglioli jacket, but that's an Italian specialty.

    And just to note, Southwick's "natural shoulder" has gotten increasingly better. Any of you guys that ordered FF jackets can chime in, but it's a lot softer and more, well, natural than it was this time last year. They've really outdone themselves.


    Yep. They're both the same Italian Hopsack. The photos are different mainly because of the lighting. If you can't tell, they're taken two completely different places. And the light near the Brooklyn store (where the Caine pics were taken) is pretty awful for fit photos. I would say that the Napoli photo is an accurate depiction of how it looks in natural light.
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. prozach1576

    prozach1576 Senior member

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    How does the current Southwick version of the Napoli compare to the old made-in-Italy jackets?
     
    Last edited: Apr 20, 2013
  19. leftofthedial

    leftofthedial Senior member

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    It's a better fit, overall. The Italian jackets had higher armholes and was, possibly, the slimmest fitting product we've ever made. The Napoli has the same ease about it, but generally works for more dudes.

    That said, if anyone has a Marcello in 46 they'd like to get rid of, particularly the guncheck, shoot me a PM. [​IMG]
     
  20. applky

    applky Senior member

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    I have two of each, and I prefer the Napoli. It's lighter in the whole shoulder area. I still do like the old Marcellos very much, but the Napoli is superior. Also I think the bemberg lining that Southwick uses for the Napoli is more breathable, which is great for summery fabrics.
     
    Last edited: Apr 20, 2013

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