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GrahamM

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Hi Stephenaf2003,

Can I ask you a question about Bonafe boots and welt width, the amount of welt visible over the shoe?

Your boots just posted, the loafers posted by Jamesbond1 in the post above on April13th, your Russian grain bourbon shell boots before that all have a welt cut close to the body of the shoe/boot. Other times I see really wide welts like with Norvegese boot posted by ErikDg some posts above and then in-between widths like Emospences boots a few posts above this.

What controls that welt width? Is it sole or construction choice? How do you specify a close cut welt, or know that it will be the result, when ordering from EB?

Cheers,

Graham
 

dangerous

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Hi Stephenaf2003,

Can I ask you a question about Bonafe boots and welt width, the amount of welt visible over the shoe?

Your boots just posted, the loafers posted by Jamesbond1 in the post above on April13th, your Russian grain bourbon shell boots before that all have a welt cut close to the body of the shoe/boot. Other times I see really wide welts like with Norvegese boot posted by ErikDg some posts above and then in-between widths like Emospences boots a few posts above this.

What controls that welt width? Is it sole or construction choice? How do you specify a close cut welt, or know that it will be the result, when ordering from EB?

Cheers,

Graham

They are different make ups. The chain norvegese is something you pay extra for. It's something a lot of people really like and thus you see a lot of them.

I'm currently wearing a pair of hunter boots similar to the make up on Skoaktiebolagets website. They don't have the chain stitch though.

All soles can be cut at either width. Just specify it. @ErikDg is amazing at walking people through the process if you from Skoaktiebolaget... My 7? Pair of Enzo Bonafe are all bought from there...

I need to look into my habits i don't even remember how many pairs i have...
 

jischwar

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Hi Stephenaf2003,

Can I ask you a question about Bonafe boots and welt width, the amount of welt visible over the shoe?

Your boots just posted, the loafers posted by Jamesbond1 in the post above on April13th, your Russian grain bourbon shell boots before that all have a welt cut close to the body of the shoe/boot. Other times I see really wide welts like with Norvegese boot posted by ErikDg some posts above and then in-between widths like Emospences boots a few posts above this.

What controls that welt width? Is it sole or construction choice? How do you specify a close cut welt, or know that it will be the result, when ordering from EB?

Cheers,

Graham
Not directed at me, but the construction choice controls the welt width for the most part. In recent years, whomever has been trimming the welts has been keeping them closer, especially om flat welt construction. If going the MTO route, you can absolutely ask for a closer trimmed welt. I went the opposite way on my most recent commission.

Storm welt and norvegese will also be larger given the construction. In general, Bonafé tends to have larger welts than say Zonkey Boot or Saint Crispins
 

ErikDg

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Thanks @dangerous 😁
@GrahamM Norvegese welted shoes always comes with a wide welt visible.
For the regular hand welted you can always specify what you wish for. Some ask for it to be cut tight while some others like a wide welt around the shoe. Depending on the style and personal taste.
 

dangerous

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20230427_162754.jpg


Took a quick picture while waiting for the train. See welt.
 

Jaggery

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Thanks @dangerous 😁
@GrahamM Norvegese welted shoes always comes with a wide welt visible.
For the regular hand welted you can always specify what you wish for. Some ask for it to be cut tight while some others like a wide welt around the shoe. Depending on the style and personal taste.
Another thing to consider is that the twisted threads used in Norvegese construction probably look neatest (tightly bound together and close against the upper) when the shoes or boots are new. With hard wear, brushing, etc., the threads may become a little looser and rougher over time. Of course, this doesn't change the actual width of the welt, but it may make a subtle aesthetic difference as the welt and sole(s) no longer appear to be protruding so far in proportion to the stitching.
 

stephenaf2003

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Hi Stephenaf2003,

Can I ask you a question about Bonafe boots and welt width, the amount of welt visible over the shoe?

Your boots just posted, the loafers posted by Jamesbond1 in the post above on April13th, your Russian grain bourbon shell boots before that all have a welt cut close to the body of the shoe/boot. Other times I see really wide welts like with Norvegese boot posted by ErikDg some posts above and then in-between widths like Emospences boots a few posts above this.

What controls that welt width? Is it sole or construction choice? How do you specify a close cut welt, or know that it will be the result, when ordering from EB?

Cheers,

Graham
Just now seeing this, sorry for the late reply. On sf though, there are always plenty of folks eager to share their knowledge..lol. As for the knowledge shared, as far as I can tell they were all spot on.
 

peanutbutterjellychoo

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Oct 16, 2014
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Yes i saw it on his official page yesterday too. Very sad indeed but the angels up above must be rejoicing. They will be decked out in some pretty neat handwelted shoes
 

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