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gmehra

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Hi @gmehra!

How would you say the different chukkas differ from each other outside of looks? Better fit for a low instep?

I like the 3838 but having a really hard time finding any pairs made on it.

Do you have any experience of them? Or pictures... I like the idea of a higher chukka.
they all fit the same just depends what last you use. the 773 last is good for a low instep. they can also do some adjustments to lower the instep during production
 

clee1982

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So I'm trying to get a GMTO going for short chelsea, right now we have 3, so still need last one, the spec are

1. Model: Cary Grant
2. Last: 74945
3. Leather: deep brown grain (Skoat calls it 8177)
4. Sole: Vibram
5. Construction: Handwelt

we got so far
@EUtroll
@knappabn
@clee1982

if anyone wants to join, I'll add to the pm channel

basically this model

1596200345478.png


in this leather
1596200368088.png
 
Last edited:

Phoenician

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@gmehra

i see you have these beautiful burgundy bison leather split toe boots by Bonafe. Can you get any size in these or are they limited to a certain run? Thanks very much!
Douglas

E4D62038-96DA-4872-9C8D-E0E358B45DE2.jpeg
 

clee1982

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So I'm trying to get a GMTO going for short chelsea, right now we have 3, so still need last one, the spec are

1. Model: Cary Grant
2. Last: 74945
3. Leather: deep brown grain (Skoat calls it 8177)
4. Sole: Vibram
5. Construction: Handwelt

we got so far
@EUtroll
@knappabn
@clee1982

if anyone wants to join, I'll add to the pm channel

basically this model

View attachment 1433685

in this leather
View attachment 1433686

all right, guys, finally got some GMTO opened!!!

 

clee1982

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now as embarrassing as it sounds (being the starter of this GMTO), how does 74945 fit, I would say CJ 341 fits me well (348 is too tight in toebox, 236 is too short, or borderline acceptable). In general I just need toebox width (not necessarily wide, but standard to wide would be preferred), not worried about instep.

For reference

CJ 341: 8.5E UK
CJ 348: 8.5E UK (but not ideal)
GG MH71: 9E UK (TG73 and DG70 is too tight in toebox)
AM Chisel 2: 9E UK
AM Soft Square: 9F UK (took wide, never tried to go 9.5E UK, so not sure if that would have been better)

And I know something like CJ Carmina in 8.5 UK definitely does not work
 

CLTesquire

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Well you're going to be either 8.5 or 9. Most people are down 0.5 from their G&G sizing. That being said, 74945, in my opinion, has a touch lower instep than the Bonafe 946 and 804 lasts and the same size is a little uncomfortable to me because I have a high instep. So, in my personal experience, if I were to buy something in the 74945 again, I would buy the same as my G&G size. You have no concerns about instep though.

As to toe width, I find the 946 to crowd the toes a bit. I did not have this issue with the same size in 74945.
 

clee1982

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hum, I said not worried about instep as in I thought all EB has higher instep vs. English...
 

clee1982

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Well you're going to be either 8.5 or 9. Most people are down 0.5 from their G&G sizing. That being said, 74945, in my opinion, has a touch lower instep than the Bonafe 946 and 804 lasts and the same size is a little uncomfortable to me because I have a high instep. So, in my personal experience, if I were to buy something in the 74945 again, I would buy the same as my G&G size. You have no concerns about instep though.

As to toe width, I find the 946 to crowd the toes a bit. I did not have this issue with the same size in 74945.
by the way what other maker do you have for sizing comparison wise (this would be my first EB...)
 

CLTesquire

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by the way what other maker do you have for sizing comparison wise (this would be my first EB...)
I think I agree with the premise that EB as a brand will generally have a higher instep than, say, Edward Green or G&G. However, within the myriad lasts offered by Bonafe there is variation. Honestly I found the 74945 to very similar in appearance to the Carmina Forest last, but with a higher instep. If you have a normal instep and never find yourself having to increase the size because of the instep of a shoe, I wouldn't sweat it so much. Here's what I wear:

Bonafe 804: 9 UK
Bonafe 946: 9 UK
Bonafe 74945: 9 UK a bit tight on the instep
EG 606: 9 UK (I only have Dovers on this last)
EG 202: 9 UK mostly, sometimes 9.5 UK depending on the shoe (I have trouble with the instep of their chukka boots)
EG 184: can't wear b/c of the instep
EG 82: 9.5 UK (this isn't the greatest last for me)
EG 72: 9.5 UK (only in boots and great with thicker socks)
G&G GG06: 9.5 UK in oxfords (I go F width in boots for thick socks and have an instep adjustment on one foot for chukkas)
G&G MH71: 9.5 UK
G&G KN14: 9.5 UK (instep adjustment on each foot)
C&J 341: 9 UK (these were loafers I had to sell b/c the instep was too tight...length was fine)
 

jischwar

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Well you're going to be either 8.5 or 9. Most people are down 0.5 from their G&G sizing. That being said, 74945, in my opinion, has a touch lower instep than the Bonafe 946 and 804 lasts and the same size is a little uncomfortable to me because I have a high instep. So, in my personal experience, if I were to buy something in the 74945 again, I would buy the same as my G&G size. You have no concerns about instep though.

As to toe width, I find the 946 to crowd the toes a bit. I did not have this issue with the same size in 74945.
They actually are all supposed to have the same size instep. See the below chart from EB (I think these measurements are for a size 8UK) but you can see the relation amongst them. Obviously the last shapes are different and that can play into the taper towards the toe.
FF48DDB7-3F75-4A71-A432-0B8F0A145976.jpeg
 

jischwar

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now as embarrassing as it sounds (being the starter of this GMTO), how does 74945 fit, I would say CJ 341 fits me well (348 is too tight in toebox, 236 is too short, or borderline acceptable). In general I just need toebox width (not necessarily wide, but standard to wide would be preferred), not worried about instep.

For reference

CJ 341: 8.5E UK
CJ 348: 8.5E UK (but not ideal)
GG MH71: 9E UK (TG73 and DG70 is too tight in toebox)
AM Chisel 2: 9E UK
AM Soft Square: 9F UK (took wide, never tried to go 9.5E UK, so not sure if that would have been better)

And I know something like CJ Carmina in 8.5 UK definitely does not work
Well you're going to be either 8.5 or 9. Most people are down 0.5 from their G&G sizing. That being said, 74945, in my opinion, has a touch lower instep than the Bonafe 946 and 804 lasts and the same size is a little uncomfortable to me because I have a high instep. So, in my personal experience, if I were to buy something in the 74945 again, I would buy the same as my G&G size. You have no concerns about instep though.

As to toe width, I find the 946 to crowd the toes a bit. I did not have this issue with the same size in 74945.
One thing to note when going the GMTO route is that you can have small adjustments made to the last for no additional cost. You can lower the instep, widen the ball and/ or toes so that you don't have to size up and be stuck with a shoe that's too long or vice versa.
 

clee1982

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hum, looks like I might stick with 8.5 then, I like high instep, but don't need abnormally high
 

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