Enzo Bonafe Handmade Shoes.

[ThunderMarch]

@beargonefishing @stephenaf2003
Thanks guys!

@Zapasman
Thank you.
Well, I must say that you're not wrong. I've noticed that for their Norvegese (chained and linear), there have been inconsistencies. Some are nicely done, but for some, it tends to be a little messy at the seams, and also at the termination of the stitching. I think that because of the outward turning of the uppers, the areas at the seams do not sit flat and will present a "problem" to the worker doing the Norvegese, especially for the layer of stitching between the uppers and the midsole. The "chained" layer can also sometimes be affected, and I do notice some variation in stitch length at these areas. You are also right, this is more obvious on the right chukka near the arch. For the most part though, they look fine.

I've definitely fed this back as well. As areas for improvement.

That being said, I've also noticed similar issues in my Zonkeys (don't think they use the same outworkers as Bonafe as the execution looks fairly distinct), and also Vass' goyser. I'm not going to put it down to "charm", but yes, it's something that can be improved.

Appreciate the input my friend.

 

[saurabh]

@ThunderMarch - your chukkas are absolutely amazing and wouldn't be bothered with that slight imperfection of the stitching.

Maybe my Vass Shell cordovan doesn't have the Vass charm and they did the 360 Goyser perfectly.

 

[ThunderMarch]

Thanks for sharing @saurabh.
That pair of Vass looks nicely done. Of course, I certainly feel that Vass is a maker well capable of doing great work.
And although this may sound somewhat cliched, I definitely do accept some degree of inconsistency in largely handmade products. I have found that my "complaints" don't usually go very far beyond gentle feedback.

 

[stephenaf2003]

@beargonefishing @stephenaf2003
Thanks guys!

@Zapasman
Thank you.
Well, I must say that you're not wrong. I've noticed that for their Norvegese (chained and linear), there have been inconsistencies. Some are nicely done, but for some, it tends to be a little messy at the seams, and also at the termination of the stitching. I think that because of the outward turning of the uppers, the areas at the seams do not sit flat and will present a "problem" to the worker doing the Norvegese, especially for the layer of stitching between the uppers and the midsole. The "chained" layer can also sometimes be affected, and I do notice some variation in stitch length at these areas. You are also right, this is more obvious on the right chukka near the arch. For the most part though, they look fine.

I've definitely fed this back as well. As areas for improvement.

That being said, I've also noticed similar issues in my Zonkeys (don't think they use the same outworkers as Bonafe as the execution looks fairly distinct), and also Vass' goyser. I'm not going to put it down to "charm", but yes, it's something that can be improved.

Appreciate the input my friend.

While the two pair of Norvegese
stitched shoes I have from Maftei are perfectly executed, I tend to be very forgiving of the slight imperfections, considering these are handmade shoes. My EB norvegese stitched also have the issues you mentioned. Obviously the exception being of course, if there are glaring errors. Like for example the pair of Meermin’s I had that were very poorly executed. Of course at their price point it might well be expected. That being said, the price we pay for EB’s I get why others might not be so forgiving.

Looking at the photos of yours though I have to say I’m in love with them.

 

[Zapasman]

Thanks for sharing @saurabh.
That pair of Vass looks nicely done. Of course, I certainly feel that Vass is a maker well capable of doing great work.
And although this may sound somewhat cliched, I definitely do accept some degree of inconsistency in largely handmade products. I have found that my "complaints" don't usually go very far beyond gentle feedback.

Thanks for sharing your honest impressions ThunderMarch. I know how much you respect this maker. For me EB is a symbol of great norvegese shoes and HW button boots at a great price. If I have something in mind in that line, EB comes to my mind always. I am not too picky either with consistency in HW shoes at those prices (same with Vass) but I think that the norvegese, specially chained in natural thread color, should be much better executed than your both pairs. I prefer EB increase 50-100 €/a pair to have a neat stitching on those. The point is that your chukkas are beautiful but the inconsistency of the thread with such a color contrast is not of my liking (same work as chinese Meermin?). Sorry to say, but that ruins the boot IMHO and EB should remake at least your booties. I read somewhere long ago that there is only one person in EB in charge of norvegese (Enzo´s wife) . I doubt yours were stitched by her.

Here is the example that shows they know really well how to stitch chained norvegese and I would have expect them to do that beautiful work for a knowledgeable shoe aficionado like you with so many pairs from the same brand. Really sorry for you. If I were you I would talk to them about this issue. Just my honest opinion.

 

[ThunderMarch]

@Zapasman
Thanks for the kind words, and also for sharing those pics.

I remember those boots, and yes I think the Norvegese work on those is truly stunning. Very nice indeed.

In fact, while I do know that Mr Enzo's wife is the one in charge of all pattern work. I didn't realize that she does Norvegese (or at least some of it), till you mentioned it. Probably as she gets on in years, it is increasingly done by outworkers.

We did notice similar inconsistencies in other pairs in that particular MTO batch, and highlighted the issues to Bonafe.

What I feel is important (and great) in the relationship with them, is that they have always been very honest, and acknowledged mistakes whenever they were made. The thing about remaking these, though, was that the leather used in this GMTO (the lobb grain), was not something they had on hand but something that was ordered from AA crack. And eventually, the issue was resolved at a retailer level.

Certainly, I hope future Norvegese pairs are better executed. But still, I'd much rather live with a wonky Norvegese chain stitch, than fabric gemming, anytime.

Anytime.

 

[Zapasman]

Wear them in good health good man!!

 

[stephenaf2003]

For kicking around in the rain today.

 

[venividivicibj]

363mod?

 

[RogerP]

X posting everywhere.

Bonafe suede Jodhpurs from the Skoak Black Friday sale. Beautiful and comfy.

 

[peppercorn78]

Bonafe Chelsea’s courtesy of SoleGarb

 

[Zzen]

Xpost from the EB MTO/GMTO thread to check interest on a potential group order for the following 2 makeups:

Suede Chelsea
Model: 2553 Whole Cut Chelsea
Last: 74945
Material: Hidro Tobacco Suede
Sole: Single leather w/ topy
Edge finish: mid brown
Lining: natural calf
Hand Welted 270deg
Donkey Back and Bombe In and Out

Basically this shoe w/ topy soles on the 74945 (the picture below is on the 946)

Lazyman
Model: 3937 Lazyman
Last: 74945
Material: Vitello Giamaica soft burnish
Sole: Island (flexbile on single leather or single leather with topy)
Edge finish: mid brown
Lining: natural calf
Hand Welted 270deg
Donkey Back and Bombe In and Out

This shoe

In this color (swatch also attached for reference)

 

[TtownMD]

Enjoy !!

 

[Zzen]

View attachment 889600 View attachment 889601
Enjoy !!

Glad I gave you an excuse to unleash those in the wild pics my man.

Your pants game is strong as well. What are the details on the grey ones in the second photo?

 

[TtownMD]

Glad I gave you an excuse to unleash those in the wild pics my man.

Your pants game is strong as well. What are the details on the grey ones in the second photo?

Hey man thank you that pant is rota !!