ENZO BONAFÉ MTO and GMTO Central

[CrashBurner]

@nishant: just heard back from Lorenzo - no hatch grain, sorry.

 

[goalaso]

Well done guys. I’ll see if @ryanluo23, @goalaso and @Vocans would be interested in this makeup in Color 6:

Leather: Smooth Colour 6 Horween Cordovan Upper/Shaft
Last: 74945
Finishing: 360 Handwelted Stormwelt/natural edge (I think that we can adjust the edge colour within a single GMTO)
Hardware: Antique Brass - 5 x smaller eyelets & 3 x speed hooks (don’t mind 4 x 4 either)
Sole: Dainite(UK version)

Anyone else interested in the makeup above, please let yourself be known.

I appreciate checking in, but I have never tried the 74945, and if its toe is narrower than Carmina Rain, then I can't swing it :/
Great looking make up though

 

[CrashBurner]

I appreciate checking in, but I have never tried the 74945, and if its toe is narrower than Carmina Rain, then I can't swing it :/
Great looking make up though

Not familiar with Carmina Rain (Oscar works for me TTS). From what I’ve read, I’d have to size up by a half on the Rain last compared to the Oscar last (?).
The 74945 has pretty much the same room in the toe box as an equivalent 363 MOD - it’s just a bit longer.
I have a D/E fit at the ball and the 74945 in UK 9 fit me perfectly (that’s my standard size in EB 363 MOD, Carmina Oscar, Tricker’s W2298/4497s and I’m a 9.5/10 in Edward Green).

 

[goalaso]

I appreciate the sizing recs and it'll guide my future EB tests, but I'm not comfortable committing to an MTO like this on a last I've never tried, so I'm out for now

 

[CrashBurner]

@goalaso No problem. Just thought it might be useful to you. If you do decide to buy into a 74945 last in the future, I don't think you'll regret it.

 

[stephenaf2003]

Not familiar with Carmina Rain (Oscar works for me TTS). From what I’ve read, I’d have to size up by a half on the Rain last compared to the Oscar last (?).
The 74945 has pretty much the same room in the toe box as an equivalent 363 MOD - it’s just a bit longer.
I have a D/E fit at the ball and the 74945 in UK 9 fit me perfectly (that’s my standard size in EB 363 MOD, Carmina Oscar, Tricker’s W2298/4497s and I’m a 9.5/10 in Edward Green).

I’m not sure about that, all of the descriptions I've ever seen for the 74945 vs 363 lists the 363 as more roomy than the 74945. I’ve got several 363’s and several 74945, and can tell you 74945 is most definitely narrower in the toe box.

I appreciate the sizing recs and it'll guide my future EB tests, but I'm not comfortable committing to an MTO like this on a last I've never tried, so I'm out for now

Goalso, based on my above comments an option available to you is, you can do what I have EB do when I order the 74945 last. I have them feather the ball of the foot area, which helps my US-E foot and allows me to order my normal UK8.5. This opens up the toe box area and makes the 74945 feel almost like a bespoke pair, it’s an excellent fit for me.

 

[CrashBurner]

I’m not sure about that, all of the descriptions I've ever seen for the 74945 vs 363 lists the 363 as more roomy than the 74945. I’ve got several 363’s and several 74945, and can tell you 74945 is most definitely narrower in the toe.

Thanks for the feedback. That sounds like a good option for a wider forefoot What does feathering entail?
I’ve found that the 74945 fits pretty much the same as the 363MOD but I like the sleeker look of the 74945. I took two pics from above for comparison:

UK Size 9 - Left: Whisky Cordovan 363MOD
Right: Color 4 Cordovan 74945

UK Size 9.5 - Left Color 4 Cordovan 74945
Right: Color 8 Cordovan 363MOD
*Note: the difference in the two Color 4 boots (the UK 9.5 was from an earlier GMTO)

 

[stephenaf2003]

Thanks for the feedback. I’ve found that the 74945 fits pretty much the same as the 363MOD but I like the sleeker look of the 74945. I took two pics from above for comparison:

View attachment 1241149 View attachment 1241151

Yeah, I think this is one of those classic cases of looks can be deceiving. I had to utilize the boot stretcher on my first pair of 74945 last boots. The first wear had my toes aching by the end of the day. A round with the stretcher fixed that for me. Getting feathering on my calf hatch Jodhpurs and the latest hatch shell Balways and the fit is perfect.

If you take a look at one of the largest movers of EB, Skoak’s site last size comparisons, you’ll note that many have to size up a half on the 74945. I suspect those that do, have a slightly wider foot like me.

 

[CrashBurner]

Yeah, I think this is one of those classic cases of looks can be deceiving. I had to utilize the boot stretcher on my first pair of 74945 last boots. The first wear had my toes aching by the end of the day. A round with the stretcher fixed that for me. Getting feathering on my calf hatch Jodhpurs and the latest hatch shell Balways and the fit is perfect.

If you take a look at one of the largest movers of EB, Skoak’s site last size comparisons, you’ll note that many have to size up a half on the 74945. I suspect those that do, have a slightly wider foot like me.

I actually used the Skoak fitting info to self-enable me to buy the UK 9.5 74945 (used) boots in the second pic ;-). I'd purchased the UK 9 363MOD boots in the first pic just prior to the aforementioned purchase and thought up-sizing would work for me. Alas, the UK 9.5 are just a bit too voluminous. I think I'm in between a D and E fit. I cannot understate how hard it was realising that the UK 9.5 Balways were too big - I still can't let go of them ;-).

On a side note: I had the same issue with a pair of Tricker's Burford boots that I've worn to work solidly for roughly two years. I don't normally cover huge amounts of ground in them but I had the opportunity to go to London for work and walked for roughly 15km one day. What I thought were super-comfortable boots by the end of the day became mini torture chambers attached to my feet (mainly the left pinky toe - almost popped a toe nail). Slightly too big may be the way to go if I intend walking longer distances.

 

[goalaso]

Yeah, I think this is one of those classic cases of looks can be deceiving. I had to utilize the boot stretcher on my first pair of 74945 last boots. The first wear had my toes aching by the end of the day. A round with the stretcher fixed that for me. Getting feathering on my calf hatch Jodhpurs and the latest hatch shell Balways and the fit is perfect.

If you take a look at one of the largest movers of EB, Skoak’s site last size comparisons, you’ll note that many have to size up a half on the 74945. I suspect those that do, have a slightly wider foot like me.

"Feather the ball of the foot area" sounds very poetic and almost makes me want to buy the boot for that reason alone. But I have no clue what that really means. Fitting a wider forefoot into a sleeker looking last sounds wonderful though. Can you explain or illustrate with photos or a link? Is there a good comparison to any other brands' lasts for what a 74945 feathered ball last fits like?

Given that I'm not familiar with the 74945 in the first place, I still am hesitant to enter a GMTO based on a subtle modification to a last I don't know. But this has piqued my interest greatly...

 

[stephenaf2003]

"Feather the ball of the foot area" sounds very poetic and almost makes me want to buy the boot for that reason alone. But I have no clue what that really means. Fitting a wider forefoot into a sleeker looking last sounds wonderful though. Can you explain or illustrate with photos or a link? Is there a good comparison to any other brands' lasts for what a 74945 feathered ball last fits like?

Given that I'm not familiar with the 74945 in the first place, I still am hesitant to enter a GMTO based on a subtle modification to a last I don't know. But this has piqued my interest greatly...

You are correct in being skeptical, as I always say, everyone’s foot is different. It’s not as poetic as it sounds, just a very simple modification that EB utilizes when they are lasting the boots for me. My understanding is they place a piece of material on the last, in the highlighted area on the photo below, (ball of the foot). They then stretch the leather over this slight last modification. This allows extra space on my specific lasted boots.

The reason this works for me is specific to my foot. I’ve got very flat feet that are slightly wide in the ball of the foot area. A narrow last like the 74945 creates discomfort for me on a standard D fitting, which the EB’s are. The specific help this gives to me is in the width of my foot there in the mid-foot area. I agree that if your foot does not have this issue, you should be cautious when plunking down $1200 for a pair of boots.

 

[CrashBurner]

Given that I'm not familiar with the 74945 in the first place, I still am hesitant to enter a GMTO based on a subtle modification to a last I don't know. But this has piqued my interest greatly...

$1175 is a lot of money to put down on a pair of boots. As you can see from the above pics, I’ve used trial and error to find out what fit best. All of the boots besides the UK 9 Balway were bought second hand at a big discount in comparison to the GMTO price. It’s not ideal but it’s still cheaper than a return airfare to Bologna from Australia ;-). I wouldn’t spend that kind of money unless I had a very good idea of my sizing (even then I took a stab at the UK 9 74945 - it worked out for me thankfully).

I have been planning to order a single MTO Colour 6 Balway for roughly 7 months and have been waiting for Lorenzo to give me the nod once Horween had produced the shells. Given the current surge of interest in Colour 4 and 6 (Carmina thread) and the Balway in Colour 4 on this thread, I thought there might be some interest in Colour 6 with the people that voted for smooth shaft. Im not worried if there’s no interest in a GMTO - at least I get exactly what I want.

 

[scubajose]

Hello everyone! If you are on the GYW subreddit then you have already seen this, but I wanted to post over here as well.

I'm working with SoleGarb on getting an order together for a pair of Balway boots in Horween unglazed natural shell for the upper and hatchgrain unglazed natural shell for the shaft. We actually are trying to get two different groups for this going. Everything is the same for each makeup except for the last. I'm in on the 74945 last group myself, so those specs are set in stone and won't change. The 363MOD can be tweaked a bit if people so desire and everyone can agree, but right now we have 3 for it and only need 1 more. The 74945 group already has the numbers that are needed so it is definitely happening.

The exact details will be:

- Model: Balway
- Uppers: Unglazed Natural Shell
- Shaft: Hatchgrain Unglazed Natural Shell
- Eyelets: 9 Brass eyelets
- Welt: 270° flat welt with natural edge dressing
- Sole: Commando
- Last: 74945

- Model: Balway
- Uppers: Unglazed Natural Shell
- Shaft: Hatchgrain Unglazed Natural Shell
- Eyelets: 9 Brass eyelets
- Welt: 360 natural welt
- Sole: Dainite
- Last: 363MOD

The price will be $1095. I want to get everything into Lorenzo by the end of the week. Let me know if you have any questions!!

 

[Mr Clemson]

Hello everyone! If you are on the GYW subreddit then you have already seen this, but I wanted to post over here as well.

I'm working with SoleGarb on getting an order together for a pair of Balway boots in Horween unglazed natural shell for the upper and hatchgrain unglazed natural shell for the shaft. We actually are trying to get two different groups for this going. Everything is the same for each makeup except for the last. I'm in on the 74945 last group myself, so those specs are set in stone and won't change. The 363MOD can be tweaked a bit if people so desire and everyone can agree, but right now we have 3 for it and only need 1 more. The 74945 group already has the numbers that are needed so it is definitely happening.

The exact details will be:

- Model: Balway
- Uppers: Unglazed Natural Shell
- Shaft: Hatchgrain Unglazed Natural Shell
- Eyelets: 9 Brass eyelets
- Welt: 270° flat welt with natural edge dressing
- Sole: Commando
- Last: 74945

- Model: Balway
- Uppers: Unglazed Natural Shell
- Shaft: Hatchgrain Unglazed Natural Shell
- Eyelets: 9 Brass eyelets
- Welt: 270° flat welt with natural edge dressing
- Sole: Commando
- Last: 363MOD

The price will be $1095. I want to get everything into Lorenzo by the end of the week. Let me know if you have any questions!!

I’m in. EDIT: Can I get on the 74945 group? Sorry, I misread your post. I think I prefer that last.

 

[scubajose]

I’m in. EDIT: Can I get on the 74945 group? Sorry, I misread your post. I think I prefer that last.

I'm putting you down now!