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ENZO BONAFÉ MTO and GMTO Central

Patrick1053

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They both use Horween, so no differentiator there. EB is mostly hand welt. I prefer hand welt makers, I feel like they are preserving the art of shoe making, so tend to favor them. With the amount of shoes I have to choose from, other than sentimental reasons for choosing them, it’s likely a wash. Carmina has more “modern” last’s, if you’re looking for that they get the edge there. I don’t have lots of Carmina last’s, overwhelmingly Rain, next Forest, a few Soller, Llubi and an Oscar are in my room.

Again, for me I just love EB’s aesthetic, so they out number everyone in my shoe room, with Carmina and C&J a close second in terms of numbers.

I see you’re selling an EB, so you have some experience with EB craftsmanship. Carmina is a really great maker, the customer engagement gives them a big edge over most makers IMO. But, as much as I like Carmina the proof is in the pudding. My purchase history shows, I’m not willing to pay full price for Carmina shell, for EB I am. Honestly though, it’s only a few hundred dollars more for EB, but I feel they are worth it.

You’ll be surprised to find that, I said all that to say, give Carmina a try. They’re a good maker, and it’s not like you’re gonna stop buying shoes anytime soon. So, you’ll have a nice pair of Carmina shell Chukka’s. I suspect you’ll be back to EB in the long run.
Thanks for the info. I think I will go with EB because the price difference is quite small. Carmina is $890 vs EB at $1050.

I have shoes from both, I like both, but I like hand welted like you.

Since I am gonna get these unlined for warmer weather use there is no rush. Therefore the months-long turnaround with EB is not a problem.

Do you think EB would have any difficulty with the unlined aspect of my order?
 

stephenaf2003

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Thanks for the info. I think I will go with EB because the price difference is quite small. Carmina is $890 vs EB at $1050.

I have shoes from both, I like both, but I like hand welted like you.

Since I am gonna get these unlined for warmer weather use there is no rush. Therefore the months-long turnaround with EB is not a problem.

Do you think EB would have any difficulty with the unlined aspect of my order?
I can’t honestly say, I’ve never gotten unlined anything from them. I suspect however, it will not be a problem. I’ve worked with Lorenzo, over at SoleGarb, for all but maybe two pairs of my EB’s. The reason, he always works with EB and delivers on whatever request for alterations I may have.
 

dangerous

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Posting this everywhere right now:

A GMTO suggestion through Skoaktiebolaget:

It's this monkey boot without speed hooks and the red heel cup.

ljOYXzj.jpg


Model: 3853
Last: 173
Leather: Betis Castagna (?)
Chain stitch norvegese
Commando sole with double leather mid sole - most likely.
All eyelets
Price: €750 with VAT, €600 without.

Confirmed:
@dangerous

Interested:
@tdes81
@jayvee
 
Last edited:

Phoenician

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Can anyone give me their opinion on which common last from another maker most closely resembles the EB 74945? I.e. Carmina Rain, Forest, etc, CJ 325, etc.
thanks!
 

oskrusa

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Can anyone give me their opinion on which common last from another maker most closely resembles the EB 74945? I.e. Carmina Rain, Forest, etc, CJ 325, etc.
thanks!

Every foot is different, so, please take this with a grain of salt.

For me EB 74945 feels similar to CJ 341 but narrower on the mid foot and the pinky area.
I can wear 8UK standard E with thin socks on 341, and on the other hand, these days Lorenzo orders extra width on the pinkies for my boots 74945 on the same size, equivalent to 8UK F, I would say.
Neither of these two lasts are that great for my feet, but I enjoy their shape very much.
Perhaps others with a better fit on 74945 can provide you with a better assessment.
 

tdes81

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Posting this everywhere right now:

A GMTO suggestion through Skoaktiebolaget:

It's this monkey boot without speed hooks and the red heel cup.

ljOYXzj.jpg


Model: 3853
Last: 173
Leather: Betis Castagna (?)
Chain stitch norvegese
Commando sole with double leather mid sole - most likely.
All eyelets
Price: €750 with VAT, €600 without.

Confirmed:
@dangerous

Interested:
@tdes81
@jayvee

You can mark me as confirmed buddy. How many do we need -- 3?

Ugh actually I don't think there's any way that last will work for me. Looks like the same dimensions as 74945 except a lower instep? The 74945 is already too low for me. :(
 
Last edited:

tdes81

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In case you didn't see it, just a plug for a GMTO we're getting set up with Skoaktiebolaget. Black calf + black croc full strap penny loafer. 74945 last:

 

tdes81

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Black calf & full croc strap loafer GMTO finally up!


These are going to be amazing.
 

jischwar

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Mar 12, 2012
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Gentleman, allow me to propose an GMTO that I think will be unique, yet tasteful. The specs are laid out below so let me know what you think.

Style: 3751 Mod
Leather: Natural Shell in Russian Grain or J&FJ Baker Russian Reindeer Shaft / Dark Cognac Shell Uppers
Last: 363MOD
Hardware: 5+3 Small Antique Brass Eyelets/Speedhooks
Welt: Linear Norvegese with Dark Brown Edge
Sole: Ridgeway
Hidden Pull Tab
Natural Lining
Flat Brown Laces

Confirmed: @jischwar
Interested?: @Phoenician @oskrusa @aj2603

This is kind of how I envisioned the boot looking. Pictures of @oskrusa natural shell Balways showed how the shaft could darken quite nicely, but I'd also be fine with going with the real J&FJ Baker Russian Reindeer leather.
1605053420032.png
 

Sam5p

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May 4, 2014
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Gentleman, allow me to propose an GMTO that I think will be unique, yet tasteful. The specs are laid out below so let me know what you think.

Style: 3751 Mod
Leather: Natural Shell in Russian Grain or J&FJ Baker Russian Reindeer Shaft / Dark Cognac Shell Uppers
Last: 363MOD
Hardware: 5+3 Small Antique Brass Eyelets/Speedhooks
Welt: Linear Norvegese with Dark Brown Edge
Sole: Ridgeway
Hidden Pull Tab
Natural Lining
Flat Brown Laces

Confirmed: @jischwar
Interested?: @Phoenician @oskrusa @aj2603

This is kind of how I envisioned the boot looking. Pictures of @oskrusa natural shell Balways showed how the shaft could darken quite nicely, but I'd also be fine with going with the real J&FJ Baker Russian Reindeer leather.
View attachment 1494428
Put me down as interested. Thanks.
 

Mallaig

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Nov 16, 2018
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New GMTO has enough people signed up and will be put into production.

If you want to be part of this GMTO, it is not too late. Reach out to Lorenzo at [email protected].

Makeup is as follows:
  • Balway boot w/captoe
  • Color 16 smooth (lower half) / black sharkskin (upper half)
  • Color 16 facings (see picture below)
  • 74945 last
  • 5 eyelets + 3 speedhooks
  • Polished brass hardware
  • Dark brown edging
  • 270 flat hand welt
  • Double Leather with Topy (or double leather with toe taps)
  • Burgundy Goat lining
  • Flush attached pull tab
  • Black and brown flat leather laces
Price is $1150, which is a steal.

1605130972576.png
 

jischwar

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2012
Messages
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Gentleman, allow me to propose an GMTO that I think will be unique, yet tasteful. The specs are laid out below so let me know what you think.

Style: 3751 Mod
Leather: Natural Shell in Russian Grain or J&FJ Baker Russian Reindeer Shaft / Dark Cognac Shell Uppers
Last: 363MOD
Hardware: 5+3 Small Antique Brass Eyelets/Speedhooks
Welt: Linear Norvegese with Dark Brown Edge
Sole: Ridgeway
Hidden Pull Tab
Natural Lining
Flat Brown Laces

Confirmed: @jischwar
Interested?: @Phoenician @oskrusa @aj2603

This is kind of how I envisioned the boot looking. Pictures of @oskrusa natural shell Balways showed how the shaft could darken quite nicely, but I'd also be fine with going with the real J&FJ Baker Russian Reindeer leather.
View attachment 1494428
Right now @Sam5p has expressed interest. What about the others? Any thoughts on shaft material?

@Phoenician
@oskrusa
@aj2603
 

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