Entry-Level Trousers

[Citadel]

Background: My bodyweight (unfortunately, but I'm working on it) fluctuates quite a lot to extreme ranges. (Ex. 195 -> 298 -> 178 -> 285)

Which means affording myself the luxury of premium trousers is a rather poor idea. Thus, I seek a relatively inexpensive, yet adequately professional pair of trousers from a reputable brand.

I'm currently considering:

Mid Grey Pleated Vigo Trousers by SuitSupply for $199 (Size 44)

or

LUIGI BIANCHI TROUSERS 46, CHARCOAL PLEATED FRONT RELAXED FIT WOOL for $66.75 (Size 46).

Clearly, I'm inclined to lean towards the Luigi Bianchi, however I'm not familiar with the brand, and it looks as though the forums opinion on their suits is less than favorable. Which pushes me towards SuitSupply, which is well known for entry level quality apparel.

I'm looking to pick up a few pairs.

Navy / Light and or Dark Grey.

Edit: Incase there's any doubt, I'm open to other recommendations or solutions to my particular issue. (Outside of the obvious).

 

[TexasToast]

I almost posted the same topic as I know squat about trousers, I will be keeping an eye on this topic. I cheated and got a pair of chinos for now until I figure out trousers.

 

[Citadel]

I almost posted the same topic as I know squat about trousers, I will be keeping an eye on this topic. I cheated and got a pair of chinos for now until I figure out trousers.

Bonobos looks promising as well.

Men's Dress Pants: Lightweight Slacks & Wool Dress Pants | Bonobos | Bonobos

Free shipping and returns. Bonobos, home of better-fitting menswear and an easier shopping experience.

bonobos.com

 

[VegasRebel]

I've been considering similar things - I've been cutting weight (more or less) and need some intermediate trousers.

I've been considering Spier & Mackay trousers, which seem to be well regarded here. They're more than the Luigi Bianchi by a considerable bit, but less than SuSu.

I'm not sure about SuSu because they tend to favor slim cuts, and I'm not sure how that'd look at a 44/46. That said, I don't have any experience with them.

Brooks Brothers gets dumped on somewhat here, but for temporary trousers that aren't going to live in my closet forever, I figure I could do worse.

I'll probably see which of S&M and BB have a better Black Friday sale and pick up a handful of trousers.

 

[TheShetlandSweater]

Natalino and Spier are good. If you want a wider range of sizes (for when you are heavier), stores like O'Connell's and Ben Silver (more expensive) are also worth checking out. Spier also does MTO for bigger sizes. I think a number of people on here like Luxire and Yeossal, but I have no experience with either.

Ebay can also be a good source (even for new stuff with tags) because trouser styles are less prone to change over time than some other things, e.g. jacket styles. Search for Samuelsohn, Hertling, Paul Stuart, etc. Doing so will sometimes turn up good results.

 

[mak1277]

I was going to recommend Spier, but I also sort of wonder how well their stuff scales up to larger sizes. I wear a 36 contemporary and still feel like the top block is slimmer than I want.

 

[Citadel]

Spier & Mackay only go to a Size 41 unfortunately.

 

[dieworkwear]

My impression is that most people here wear a size 30 to 34 trouser. Once you start to scale up to the larger sizes, a company has to create a new pattern. In other words, if you start a trouser line and develop a pattern in a size 32, you may be able to scale up and down to get your usual run of 30 to 36 trouser sizes. At some point, however, the proportions get thrown off and you need to create a different pattern. But not everyone does this because doing so requires time and money.

I'm skeptical of Suitsupply's trousers in general because they seem very slim fit, even for people who are slim. A friend of mine wears Brooks Brothers' trousers and I think he looks good in them. I would be more apt to recommend O'Connell's because they have such a huge range of sizes, I assume they must have developed separate patterns at the larger end of the range. I assume it's not just lazily graded up from a size 32.

When you buy pants, just make sure they fit comfortably around the hips and seat. It's pretty easy to taper trousers from the knee down. The third thing to check for is the back rise. Many companies make pants with an overly long back rise for comfort, but this results in a crumpling underneath the seat. If there's enough material inside, you should be able to have a tailor shorten the back rise and drop the crotch seam, which will give you a cleaner fit.

 

[reidrothchild]

If you haven't tried on Suit Supply, I would advise against. Most of their trouser models fit incredibly slim and don't seem aimed a medium to larger guys. I've never been able to find a decent pant fit no matter what weight I've been at with Suit Supply.

 

[Citadel]

My impression is that most people here wear a size 30 to 34 trouser. Once you start to scale up to the larger sizes, a company has to create a new pattern. In other words, if you start a trouser line and develop a pattern in a size 32, you may be able to scale up and down to get your usual run of 30 to 36 trouser sizes. At some point, however, the proportions get thrown off and you need to create a different pattern. But not everyone does this because doing so requires time and money.

I'm skeptical of Suitsupply's trousers in general because they seem very slim fit, even for people who are slim. A friend of mine wears Brooks Brothers' trousers and I think he looks good in them. I would be more apt to recommend O'Connell's because they have such a huge range of sizes, I assume they must have developed separate patterns at the larger end of the range. I assume it's not just lazily graded up from a size 32.

When you buy pants, just make sure they fit comfortably around the hips and seat. It's pretty easy to taper trousers from the knee down. The third thing to check for is the back rise. Many companies make pants with an overly long back rise for comfort, but this results in a crumpling underneath the seat. If there's enough material inside, you should be able to have a tailor shorten the back rise and drop the crotch seam, which will give you a cleaner fit.

Very informative. Thank you. I'd be giving the Suitsupply trousers a try on in store absolutely. I'll look into the O'Connells / Brooks Brothers. BB usually has quite a good bit of sales and most of my dress shirts are on brand.

 

[norMD]

Where are you based? Spier and Mackay will give you a free return if you are in Canada or USA. If you are considering 200 USD suitsupply alot of trousers is in your range. Local brick and mortar shops will give you the obvious advantage of trying the trousers. Natalino and cavour are also forum favs. Does it have to be wool or is dressy cotton chinos an option?

 

[Citadel]

Where are you based? Spier and Mackay will give you a free return if you are in Canada or USA. If you are considering 200 USD suitsupply alot of trousers is in your range. Local brick and mortar shops will give you the obvious advantage of trying the trousers. Natalino and cavour are also forum favs. Does it have to be wool or is dressy cotton chinos an option?

Based in NYC, wool isn't necessary.

 

[norMD]

Based in NYC.

You can look into Kent Wang mtm. Not sure what the armoury or no man walks alone can offer in the affordable price range.

 

[dieworkwear]

Based in NYC, wool isn't necessary.

This isn't entry-level, but I Sarti Italiani is a Sicilian custom tailoring firm that visits New York City. I believe the next trip will be in March of 2022. If you can supply your own fabric, then a pair of custom trousers will cost you 160 Euros, which is roughly what you'll pay for some of these RTW options mentioned above. You can buy well-made, reasonably priced wool fabric from Huddersfield Fine Worsteds online (order swatches first). You may need 2m or 2.5m for a pair of trousers.

I have a suit from them that I like and I think they make nice pants. If you ask them to put in generous inlays, you will be able to adjust your trousers up and down a size when needed. So if you get them made to a size 40 waist, you can later adjust them to a size 38 or 42. Get them made without back pockets so you don't have to worry about these details when adjusting.

Prices are supposed to go up in January 2022. Don't know by how much, but the price is already low to start.

 

[norMD]

I love SF

Entry level trousers?

10 posts later; italian bespoke

(but still very good advise)

If you think you will achieve a stable weight in the near future I would buy j crew or bonobos now and sarti italiani later.

Spier and Mackay, cavour or natalino are also all good options. Cavour an spier will have Black friday sales