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English shoes

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by darkie_one, Mar 23, 2010.

  1. CashmereLover

    CashmereLover Senior member

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    For English rtw shoes, my favorites are Alfred Sargent. I love the 87 and 99 lasts. Customer service is wonderful. I think their value is the best too. I'd compare them favorably to Aldens, which are my favorite US rtw shoes. If you're going to spend the amt you need to spend on Greens and Lobbs, you might as well go mto or custom, imo.

    I really like AS too. I also think the Classic Collection is decent for its price range, although I guess some SF members wouldn't touch that collection.

    As I have AS shoes on the 80, 87 and 89 lasts I'm curious how you would describe the 99 last compared to 87?
     
  2. onix

    onix Senior member

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    Another + for AS. Fantastic shoes at great price. They're going to beef up their operation too (with MTO lines). It's great seeing a shoe company going up (not like many others have been going down like Allen Edmonds, Churchs, etc.,)
     
  3. TimH

    TimH Senior member

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    That's correct.

    Jonathan & William Church resigned from the board at Church's and bought Cheaney. Making it an independent company again. All the info is on Cheaney's site, and on here an Ask Andy.


    Great news Groover, I am revitalised. My Cheaneys took some finding after having seen them at SEHM in Paris whilst exhibiting in the mid nineties but they still look great today!!
     
  4. bellyhungry

    bellyhungry Senior member

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  5. onix

    onix Senior member

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    Just saw on the AAAC forum where they mentioned Shipton & Heneage http://www.shiptonandheneage.co.uk/

    Anyone got insight about the made?


    They have shoes made by a wide range of UK makers (including C&J, AS, Church's, etc.,). So it all depends on individual pairs.
     
  6. bellyhungry

    bellyhungry Senior member

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    They have shoes made by a wide range of UK makers (including C&J, AS, Church's, etc.,). So it all depends on individual pairs.

    merci beaucoup.
     
  7. emptym

    emptym Senior member Moderator

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    I really like AS too. I also think the Classic Collection is decent for its price range, although I guess some SF members wouldn't touch that collection.

    As I have AS shoes on the 80, 87 and 89 lasts I'm curious how you would describe the 99 last compared to 87?


    I would definitely buy suede shoes from the classic collection or a calfskin pair if I was in college. My hesitance about the calfskin shoes from the classic collection is that I think they're made of corrected grain. Not sure if that's true though.

    I think the 87 is a great example of a traditional English last, maybe the best example. The 99 is what SF would call "sleeker." I posted a bunch of pics of an mto pair I ordered here. I think the plainness of the style reveals the shape of the last well.
     
  8. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

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    My hesitance about the calfskin shoes from the classic collection is that I think they're made of corrected grain. Not sure if that's true though.

    Some of them definitely are, for example the Eden (monkstrap). Not sure whether they're all CG though...
     
  9. alliswell

    alliswell Senior member

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    S has moved to occupy the space in the market between C&J and EG. You can't go wrong with C&J if you know your size and last, especially with the exchange rate to USD. That said, my sense is the AS has stepped up their game and may be significantly better for only slightly more money.

    Both of them offer competitive and different products to Alden. If you want old-school weight in your shoes, go with Alden. If you want old school English style, go with C&J or AS.
     
  10. Bounder

    Bounder Senior member

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    I would second everything here except to say I believe the quality surpasses Alden and is in a more elite range.
    Another + for AS. Fantastic shoes at great price. They're going to beef up their operation too (with MTO lines). It's great seeing a shoe company going up (not like many others have been going down like Allen Edmonds, Churchs, etc.,)
    I don't know about AS yet. I wonder how many people have experience with them in their new incarnation. They are a completely different company now than they were a year ago. Certainly, for some time after their bankruptcy/receivership they were a disaster. I know they have plans to do all sorts of things but all those plans haven't yet come to fruition. The point is that you can't rely on their historical reputation and the new AS hasn't been around long enough to establish a reliable track record for quality and reliability. I hope they make it though.
     
  11. Newcomer

    Newcomer Senior member

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    Alfred Sargent is a solid choice. I tend to steer clear from Alden, except when I am getting casuals. Alden's are far and away my first choice for a casual shoe--particularly the LS and Leffot collaborations. However, to me their dress shoes just look off. To be completely honest, I actually prefer Allen Edmonds lasts to Aldens. I think that the 5 last is simply much sleeker, and more apt for oxfords. With that said, for longwings, NSTs, Chukkas, and a bonafide plethora of other casual shoes, one simply cannot surpass Alden in my opinion.
     
  12. CashmereLover

    CashmereLover Senior member

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    I would definitely buy suede shoes from the classic collection or a calfskin pair if I was in college. My hesitance about the calfskin shoes from the classic collection is that I think they're made of corrected grain. Not sure if that's true though.

    I think the 87 is a great example of a traditional English last, maybe the best example. The 99 is what SF would call "sleeker." I posted a bunch of pics of an mto pair I ordered here. I think the plainness of the style reveals the shape of the last well.


    Thanks for the info. Your OneShoe looks nice. [​IMG]

    I'm too inexperienced to recognize corrected grain, but I do think my calfskin shoes looks a little cheap when looking close. I have no better calfskin shoes (such as C&J) to compare with though. Maybe they just need some patina, they are both brand new. Here's one of them.

    My third pair of AS Classic Collection shoes is the Havant chukka boot in snuff suede, which looks more expensive than the calfskin shoes I think. This suede looks a bit rough compared to e.g. my C&J Westfield suede shoes, which are very delicate in comparison.

    So, at this point, with three pairs, I have a rather good picture of the AS Classic Collection and I would recommend it as an entry level collection to quality shoes (I'm saying this to the OP rather than you, emptym [​IMG]).

    For my next pair of shoes I'll probably consider the AS Premier Collection. Its price seems to be between C&J and the AS Classic Collection, so I'm curious how nice these shoes are.
     
  13. ManofKent

    ManofKent Senior member

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    I would definitely buy suede shoes from the classic collection or a calfskin pair if I was in college. My hesitance about the calfskin shoes from the classic collection is that I think they're made of corrected grain. Not sure if that's true though.

    Yes all the non-suede classic collection shoes are cg - better cg than some but cg.

    The suede classic collection are a steal - the suede doesn't seem any different to that used on the premier line. If I was going non-suede I'd definitely pay the extra for premier.

    merci beaucoup.

    Helpfully Shipton & Heneage don't tend to change the model name so working out who the maker is isn't too difficult...
     
  14. emptym

    emptym Senior member Moderator

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    ... However, to me their dress shoes just look off. To be completely honest, I actually prefer Allen Edmonds lasts to Aldens. I think that the 5 last is simply much sleeker, and more apt for oxfords. With that said, for longwings, NSTs, Chukkas, and a bonafide plethora of other casual shoes, one simply cannot surpass Alden in my opinion.
    I love the Hampton last. The 5 may be sleeker but is less shapely imo. And it doesn't fit my feet nearly as well as Alden's Hampton.

    Thanks for the info. Your OneShoe looks nice. [​IMG]...
    Thank you. They are certainly not universally loved on SF.
    Yes all the non-suede classic collection shoes are cg - better cg than some but cg.

    The suede classic collection are a steal - the suede doesn't seem any different to that used on the premier line. If I was going non-suede I'd definitely pay the extra for premier.

    Thanks for the definitive word.
     
  15. CashmereLover

    CashmereLover Senior member

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    The suede classic collection are a steal - the suede doesn't seem any different to that used on the premier line. If I was going non-suede I'd definitely pay the extra for premier.

    Kind of confirms my AS CC experience then.
     
  16. CashmereLover

    CashmereLover Senior member

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    How would you guys compare the AS Premier Collection to benchmade C&J? Are they close?
     
  17. ManofKent

    ManofKent Senior member

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    How would you guys compare the AS Premier Collection to benchmade C&J? Are they close?

    I own both and wouldn't say there's really anything in it. I like C&J but feel that they're slightly over-rated on this forum. Others hold differing views [​IMG]
     
  18. CashmereLover

    CashmereLover Senior member

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    I own both and wouldn't say there's really anything in it. I like C&J but feel that they're slightly over-rated on this forum. Others hold differing views [​IMG]

    OK, sounds like AS "PC" is really good value for money then at slightly above £200 (if I remember correctly from Pediwear).
     
  19. emptym

    emptym Senior member Moderator

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    I own both and wouldn't say there's really anything in it. I like C&J but feel that they're slightly over-rated on this forum. Others hold differing views [​IMG]
    I would agree with this, but I only own one pair of C&Js. I think a big part of their appeal here is the closed channel sole of the Handgrade line, that and the 348 last, which I find way too pointy.
     
  20. bellyhungry

    bellyhungry Senior member

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    I would agree with this, but I only own one pair of C&Js. I think a big part of their appeal here is the closed channel sole of the Handgrade line, that and the 348 last, which I find way too pointy.

    I like the 348 last and its elongated silhouette, I just wish that it is round-toe rather than chiseled-toe.
     

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