English Shoes v Italian Shoes

[Anonimo]

For decades, I wore only Church's English Shoes. They were very comfortable, and lasted forever. I still have a closet full of Church's English shoes. But the most recent pair I bought, a Shannon style, which I had to order from England in 2010, does not seem to have the same high quality as my older Church's shoes. They are less "precise" if that is a proper way to describe it; the finish, fit and comfort are not of the same level as the Church's which I purchased during the '70's, '80's and '90's. So, I have just now bought myself my first pair of non-English shoes in more than 30 years. I bought A. Testoni style M45245 for which I paid about $600. They appear to be very nice, but thinner than the nice Church's that I am used to. Because the leather is thinner and lighter, I am anticipating that these Testoni shoes will not last as long as my old Church's shoes, some of which I have worn for more than 20 years, and they still look fine! Does anyone have an opinion, or experience with the comparison of Italian shoes to good English shoes? Also, what other English brands would be comparable to the old Church shoes?

 

[MMorley]

I thought Church was finally freed from Prada and thus the quality was becoming better?

 

[well-kept]

You probably know that Church's has changed hands and was bought by Prada several years ago. Claims that they have maintained their quality stardards have been questioned by some. And of course, because a firm or product carries the same name it used to doesn't guarantee continuity. Witness new vs old Florsheim, J&M, etc.

There are English shoes in roughly the same price range, or a bit higher, than current Church's, which are extremely well made. Crockett and Jones, Edward Green, seek and you will find. Never having worn Testoni i can't comment on their quality or projected longevity. In general, Italian shoes are lighter and constructed less strongly than English. An exception would be Lattanzi. You will be in a good position to make comparisons and to report on them, down the road.

 

[Shoe fetishisisisist]

I dont think many Italian shoes will last as long as the "good" British makers. The British stuff is built using the more traditional methods and is made to last, the Italian makers such as Borgioli, (of which i have a few pairs myself and love) are more fashion forward and if correctly looked after will give years of service but IMO will not last as well as the great British shoemakers.

Chris.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

Originally Posted by well-kept

You probably know that Church's has changed hands and was bought by Prada several years ago. Claims that they have maintained their quality stardards have been questioned by some. And of course, because a firm or product carries the same name it used to doesn't guarantee continuity. Witness new vs old Florsheim, J&M, etc.

There are English shoes in roughly the same price range, or a bit higher, than current Church's, which are extremely well made. Crockett and Jones, Edward Green, seek and you will find. Never having worn Testoni i can't comment on their quality or projected longevity. In general, Italian shoes are lighter and constructed less strongly than English. An exception would be Lattanzi. You will be in a good position to make comparisons and to report on them, down the road.

This is a good answer. I think the key to Church these days is to stick with their classic models. Any of the newer sleeker stuff is all Prada and is not made to the standards of their classics. The leathers and finishing does not look as nice, they seem to be less robust and even in many cases the lower price tag assumes lesser quality.

Well-kept is right on the money with Italian shoes being lighter and less sturdy. They are made with thinner leathers and most of them are blake constructed, which lends itself to a sleeker more flexible shoe. English shoes are goodyear welted, which people argue are more impervious to water and some elements due to the added "welt" in the construction. This adds weight and a bit of heft that many people like to feel.

There are Italian shoes out there that are blake/rapid construction, however I can't comment on which "designer" is doing them other than Rider Boot Company (Cortina factory). Blake rapid is actually heavier and more sturdy than goodyear welted shoes and a great alternative if you like Italian styling, but seek a more robust shoe.

But, as stated I think Crockett & Jones is a great alternative to Church if you like English shoes at about that price range.

 

[Macallan]

If you are not happy with current quality of Church's shoes then forget Crockett & Jones as well, they are on par with each other (I own both brands, including pre-Prada Church's).

You will have to look at Edward Green, Gaziano Girling, John Lobb and probably Handgrade from Alferd Sargent (although I cannot comment on the latter).

Cheaney is worth a look, the Church brothers have taken over the company (again) and their quality may have increased. However, this may be difficult based on your location.

 

[Anonimo]

Originally Posted by Macallan

If you are not happy with current quality of Church's shoes then forget Crockett & Jones as well, they are on par with each other (I own both brands, including pre-Prada Church's).

You will have to look at Edward Green, Gaziano Girling, John Lobb and probably Handgrade from Alferd Sargent (although I cannot comment on the latter).

Cheaney is worth a look, the Church brothers have taken over the company (again) and their quality may have increased. However, this may be difficult based on your location.

Thanks for the suggestions. I am in NYC, so I should be able to find these brands here, I hope. I did not buy from the Church's English shoes boutique on Madison Avenue because when I went in there a number of months ago, I found the salesperson to be almost totally ignorant about the shoes...he did not even know how to interpret European sizing into American sizing...so I ordered from Herring's in London...

 

[Macallan]

Originally Posted by Anonimo

I did not buy from the Church's English shoes boutique on Madison Avenue because when I went in there a number of months ago, I found the salesperson to be almost totally ignorant about the shoes...he did not even know how to interpret European sizing into American sizing...so I ordered from Herring's in London...

Herring Shoes is not only a good source but they also very helpful.

There are certain Church's stores in the UK that should be avoided because the staff do not know what they are talking about; however, there are some stores where the staff are knowledgeable and also appreciate other brands.

John Lobb should have a store in New York, while Edward Green and Gaziano Girling are available online from the UK or from sources like Leffot.

 

[slappy]

As above poster noted, visit Leffot in nyc. From my limited knowledge of that city (Im from LA) it seems the best shoe store by a decent margin.

 

[LanceW]

 

[Northampton Novice]

Originally Posted by LanceW

There's some irony in your depiction: Land Rover that Great British institution is now like some Northampton shoe makers, Indian owned.

Indian vs Italian I know which I'd choose.

 

[DerekS]

why choose? if you have more than a few pairs, and rotate them regularly, theyll last forever.

i say dip into both pots.

 

[in stitches]

my 2 cents, ive had lots of ferragamos, not the higher end line mind you. with a steady rotation and careful care they have lasted me many years

 

[Northampton Novice]

Well if we're getting technical,

You could opt for Italian Good Year Welted shoes, the likes of Santoni and Zegna offer some quality footwear in this regard. You could also consider Spanish, Carmina shoes have that old-fashioned sense of quality about them like Church used too.

Personally I find Norvegese sturdier and more weather resistant than just GY welted shoes.