1. Styleforum Gives - Holiday Charity Auction 10: A full set of Aesop's Fables pocket squares from Vanda Fine Clothing

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    The 10th auction of the year is for a full set of Aesop's Fable's pocket squares from Vanda Fine Clothing. Please bid often and generously here

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Engineered Garments FW 16

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Drinkwaters, Jul 29, 2016.

  1. Drinkwaters

    Drinkwaters OG Affiliate Vendor

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    Yes, they've been cuffed since the inception and will continue to be as far as SS 17. And yes, they can be let down. HOWEVER, and I ask you all to pay attention here, especially those who have limited experience with cloth, tailors and tailoring. If the cloth you are altering is wool, you have fewer worries of a successful alteration. If you are working with cotton, linen or other plant based fabrics, here is the concern and I will list them so they are spelled out.

    1) The needle from a sewing machine will pierce a plant based fabric ( cotton, linen, tencel etc. ) with a hole that will never go away. So letting out seams can be unsightly because those holes never really shrink up like we'd think they would.

    2) Plant based fabrics fade much faster than animal fibers ( wool, cashmere, alpaca etc. ), so when you let something out or expose fabric thats been hidden inside ( such as a cuff ) you will find a difference in color. EG always washes their garments once before delivery to the retailer, so that right there sends up a red flag for me.

    3) WEAR. Once a garment has been worn, it experiences certain types of wear. The wear that we look for when altering a garment is at the edge of the bottom of trousers where there's friction against shoes / boots and at the edges of sleeves where a bracelet type watch or just typical wear could inherently gnaw away fiber. This wear mark is not going away and it will be unsightly.

    4) Keep in mind, that if you are going to tailor a plant based fabric, shrinkage should be somewhat of a concern. So, because of that nasty wear ring around the bottom of trousers when you let them down, it's alway better to air on the slightly longer measurement because of inherent shrinkage.

    5) Curious to know and don't have a tailor. Either use Yelp or find the best mens clothing store in your town and ask them if they take in outside alterations, which Drinkwater's does. Tell them about the concerns that I've listed here and good luck!

    We're always here to answer these types of questions and be of service because we are a full service Menswear store and custom tailoring is our forte.

    Gary
     
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2016


  2. blue peter

    blue peter Senior Member

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    @Drinkwaters

    super info, gary - gracias! here's my "home tailored" pair of cotton cinch pants from ss15. there is certainly, in the photos, a noticeable line where the pants were folded over themselves to create the cuff. however, fortunately, there are no permanent holes and as the fabric is so dark and i've worn them only intermittently, the color difference is non existent. the fact that they're so casual in fabric and style and dark in color makes the alteration a lot more forgiving on these particular pants, imo.

    cheers, all!

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     


  3. notdesigned

    notdesigned Senior Member

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  4. JilSlander

    JilSlander Senior Member

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    ^ Awesome, seems like that fabric is getting the most shine this season (Button Shawl, Over Vest, Highland Parka, TF Jacket, Chesterfield).
     
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2016


  5. notdesigned

    notdesigned Senior Member

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    @JilSlander Totally agree about the big plaid wool fabric. I love it in every piece I've seen so far.
     


  6. JilSlander

    JilSlander Senior Member

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    Indeed, the Chesterfield is on my to-cop list.

    It'll round out my topcoat collection (Jcrew gray herringbone + Jcrew navy glen plaid). [​IMG]
     


  7. JamesMorse

    JamesMorse Active Member

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    Anyone talk to the boys at the TBB as to when their EG shipment will arrive? Hopefully they will have some specials in addition to their mainline shipment.....
     


  8. JilSlander

    JilSlander Senior Member

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    They most likely will. Seems like TBB gets the biggest EG buy every season.

    I really liked the custom Portview Jacket from last FW:

    [​IMG]
     


  9. JilSlander

    JilSlander Senior Member

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    EG just continuing to crush it this season. I'm guessing the TF Jacket is their new bomber style every F/W.


    [​IMG]

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  10. CanadaCal

    CanadaCal Distinguished Member

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    If that TF is black suede... WANT!


    Really wanted the floral jacquard wool TF from FW15, but couldn't track one down.
     


  11. JilSlander

    JilSlander Senior Member

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    Apparently, it's a Velveteen fabric.
     


  12. CanadaCal

    CanadaCal Distinguished Member

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  13. rusticchasm

    rusticchasm Senior Member

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    what's that jacket called?
     


  14. JilSlander

    JilSlander Senior Member

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  15. jlchau

    jlchau Senior Member

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    Are there another set of pockets below the visible mid torso pockets? Just seems uncomfortably high to rest my hands in there.
     
    Last edited: Aug 22, 2016


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