Dismiss Notice

STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Engineered Garments FW 14

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Drinkwaters, Jun 27, 2014.

  1. mbaum

    mbaum Senior member

    Messages:
    994
    Likes Received:
    2,517
    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2013
    Location:
    Driving PCH
    I like the hunting aspect of it. Being the competitive type, it seems that all my hobbies have a huge hunting component to them: Classic cars, furniture, being on 5 Alden shell "in production" preorders for this year, etc.

    I also think you are dead on eluther. But I think, like most things in life, this is a predominately economic driven model (One of my key interests). In essence, apart from obviously loving the stuff, I am curious as to how do they make money? How much of all of this is simply clever marketing? I would love for Gary and Fycus to pitch in as they surely have deeper knowledge than my dilettante hypotheses after dinner and several glasses of wine.

    • Unit margins - Assume they are ok, but not super high for them, given NYC production, the focus on quality/ construction, the fabrics, margin requirements of the stockists and, what is to me, a still very reasonable retail price point that EG sets
    • Therefore, some volume is required to drive profitability - Hence EG needs to drive profitability by either keeping overhead down (I am sure they do that) or, more importantly, by driving some volume. Given that the stockiest list appears to grow and given that they have bigger distribution through Barney's, Steve Allan, etc., I assume that the volume might be higher than we think?
    • Restricting demand and obscuring distribution is a clever marketing tool - Very similar to Visvim and like-brands. This not only keeps the mystique and "credibility' aspect up, it's just clever marketing and brand positioning to limit supply while the fan boys (e.g. us) are in love, discuss every detail to death and with that, give lots of free marketing right here, right now -Usually, you also then want to optimize your pricing with that to maximize profits but unsure how much of this is going on at EG (Intuitively, surely yes. With a clever economic/ marketing guy in the background? Perhaps?)

    Lastly, if you want to deploy a model like that, you better be damn good at what you are doing. And EG/ Daiki Suzuki is a master designer and crafts man. How long are they around now? 1999? Keeping the fashion world interested and us hunting for so long, you know that what he does is first rate - full of innovation, strikes an emotional cord, quite unique and special. Even our continued complaining about sizing is part of it. That's why we write 80 pages of StyFo dribble every season and that's why even the Kunk wears EG and admires our philosophic-economic sidebar, right?

    Now, can anybody get me that f*cking knit in L, please?

    Have a good night,

    Mike
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2014


  2. timpoblete

    timpoblete Senior member

    Messages:
    2,632
    Likes Received:
    405
    Joined:
    Aug 24, 2006
    Location:
    SF Bay Area
    http://engineeredgarments.jp/?eid=628

    Spread collar shirt is back. Wonder how similar they are to the Newton shirts from FW06 (first EG shirt I ever purchased was the FW06 Newton from the long gone American Rag in SF).

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     


  3. tjonesd2

    tjonesd2 Senior member

    Messages:
    548
    Likes Received:
    110
    Joined:
    Apr 5, 2010
    That orange knit is incredible. Definitely this seasons stand out piece, IMO. That said, I personally cant justify getting it out in LA... looks like it will be a dry season for me
     


  4. Shingles

    Shingles Senior member

    Messages:
    420
    Likes Received:
    247
    Joined:
    Apr 12, 2011
    Location:
    Sweden & Norway
    Seems like Nepenthes didn't give you the full stocklist for the Orange/Brown Rib Sweater Knit. (They didn't give me it either, so who knows which all of the stores are that are carrying it?)
    Anyway. Barneys Madison Ave, Barneys San Francisco and Pilgrim also stocks it.
     


  5. Drinkwaters

    Drinkwaters OG Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    2,293
    Likes Received:
    676
    Joined:
    Nov 1, 2004
    Location:
    Cambridge, MA
    Good Morning to Ya All,

    @eluther and @ebaum I will first off will say that I am not a marketing major but more of a marketer of brands including and foremost our own. Drinkwater's was formed out of an idea as was EG that we could provide product that was unique and exclusive ( some might consider this model to be "A Darling Brand" but Daiki's posture would be that it's a crafted commodity for a discerning audience ) with an availability to a few who see its value (some might see this as elitist but by nature it is pure target production and marketing). Unlike a lot of brands, EG cuts orders as placed and limits the yield to what their market demands. Neither one of us wants what we call carry over and a full sell through is our goal. This is why my effort to get extras for all of you has become fruitless, they're just not cutting more than they have orders for and that's just deliberate execution. It's sound economic paranoia.
    When Teresa and I do our buy, we have a sea to choose from and we analysis our buy as if we were the consumers and what the likely hood of success would be and then we edit to be a collection that we feel our audience will appreciate. On an article like the Shawl Collar Knit Jacket ( which was a contender in our first round choices ), we contemplated, then meditated and then decided that the risk was too high and passed. It's hard to gauge consumer reaction and in these economic times ( I didn't want to use that phrase but shit, who does, I'm not in denial ) but we are not prone to experimentation. That said, I'll comment if I haven't already on some remarks.

    "Their lookbooks and drops receive an absolutely incredible amount of coverage which unilaterally laps praise upon Daiki Suzuki"
    This hasn't always been the case and EG remained a brand under the radar to mainstream consumers only up until a few seasons ago. Additionally, to know Daiki, he's humble and not a praise monger.
    "They have to be turning some kind of profit off of this."
    Doesn't every business need to be profitable in order to survive.
    "Unit margins - Assume they are ok, but not super high for them, given NYC production, the focus on quality/ construction, the fabrics, margin requirements of the stockists and, what is to me, a still very reasonable retail price point that EG sets"
    Mike, these are all important factors that consumers hardly take into consideration. We try to educate our customers that it starts first with the seed ( being animal or plant ) and then it becomes a product, realizing that there are a lot of ducks in between. Margins are miniscule when you factor in all these components. Plus, we gotta eat!
    "Hence EG needs to drive profitability by either keeping overhead down"
    For a brand as significant as they are, their digs are the most modest we encompass. It's a workshop and it's a craft, you don't need the glam that most showrooms have. Yes, overhead, important factors in running a business, rent, electric, payroll etc.
    "Restricting demand and obscuring distribution is a clever marketing tool"
    For them it's not necessarily looked at as a restriction as it is more strategic in having the fairest distribution in a given demographic. Being one of the first stockist in the Northeast. I was consulted with first as to my objection to having another stockist in my area. That's integrity, not a marketing ploy.

    Now, can anybody get me that f*cking knit in L, please? It's ART, it will go to the highest bidder.

    Enuff said. Hope you guys get what you want and don't wait till it's to late. Shopping for stuff can be a Crap Shoot.

    Gary
     


  6. cbusguy

    cbusguy Senior member

    Messages:
    456
    Likes Received:
    180
    Joined:
    Jul 28, 2007
    Can anyone tell me who is stocking the banded collar shirt in one of these colors?

    [​IMG]
     


  7. patagonianwild

    patagonianwild Senior member

    Messages:
    152
    Likes Received:
    41
    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2013
    Location:
    Far north
    They just upped those two on havenshop.
     


  8. timpoblete

    timpoblete Senior member

    Messages:
    2,632
    Likes Received:
    405
    Joined:
    Aug 24, 2006
    Location:
    SF Bay Area
    @Drinkwaters, your short essays are always enlightening and i always look forward to them. On a side note, the grey/navy work shirt in medium was a perfect fit and the colors work with virtually everything in my FW wardrobe. Thanks!

    http://shop.havenshop.ca/collections/engineered-garments

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     


  9. g transistor

    g transistor Senior member

    Messages:
    5,551
    Likes Received:
    8,079
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2009
    Man those cargos are amazing. I will definitely have to pick up a pair down the road
     


  10. APK

    APK Senior member

    Messages:
    7,805
    Likes Received:
    3,997
    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2008
    Location:
    MI
    Emailed Nepenthes about the shawl collar knit. No dice on the XL, but I was impressed how quickly they responded to me; probably less than 10 minutes on a Sunday morning.

    I see Kafka has an XL, but with the shipping, it comes to nearly $600, so I'll probably need to sit this one out.
     


  11. tjonesd2

    tjonesd2 Senior member

    Messages:
    548
    Likes Received:
    110
    Joined:
    Apr 5, 2010
    

    See @mbaum's write up on finding it. Some stores in US will be getting it in the next couple weeks.
     


  12. g transistor

    g transistor Senior member

    Messages:
    5,551
    Likes Received:
    8,079
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2009
    

    Nepenthes is one of the best shops I've dealt with. Answered my emails and phone questions, did all my ordering stuff too an hour before the store opened. Their communication is top notch.

    Are you looking at the orange color way? I quite like the color and texture of the herringbone as well
     


  13. Jorme

    Jorme Active Member

    Messages:
    37
    Likes Received:
    94
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2013
    Can anyone compare the Grey wool herringbone from fw14 and fw13? They look pretty similar and am wondering if they would match or be slightly off. I have the fw13 CPO and am thinking about these E1 pants to match. Thanks[​IMG]
     


  14. mbaum

    mbaum Senior member

    Messages:
    994
    Likes Received:
    2,517
    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2013
    Location:
    Driving PCH
    Thanks, Gary - As always very enlighting and for sure a fantastic topic over beers, clad in EG ...

    More news from the frontline:

    Orange/ Blue shawl colar knit:
    • Barneys SF will not get any EG this season. Madison, unsure. I think they will but I ended up in phone tag hell so I gave up before I got a definitive answer
    • Winn Perry called back: All of their knits are already spoken for via pre-sale (Alden again?)

    Homespun:
    • Experienced it in the raw on the CPO and it is indeed super nice
    • Cool fabric, did not find it too substantial (i.e. will work in LA on cold eves) and I love the brown houndstooth detailing inside on the CPO

    Highland cargos:
    • I think they are very cool and interesting. However a very difficult cut and I am not able to pull it off (See pic - Amercian Rag stocks the poplin version in olive)
    • Strong taper will not work for those with worked-out legs and especially calves - I had to literally pull them off my calves while the thigh was ok
    • Don't think the Cargo pockets are that big
    • The olive poplin is so much nicer in feel and especially color than the reversed sateen this season
    • Verdict: I very cool pant but great for those taller and/ or thinner legged

    [​IMG]


    Shirts:
    • Still not a fan at all of all the plaid in any fabric and make. I saw a lot of the ones with red in them, so hoping the blue ones will be better

    Mike
     


  15. Lollie

    Lollie Senior member

    Messages:
    171
    Likes Received:
    22
    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2013
    Not a huge fan of the cargo pants. Much prefer the cinch pants (in corduroy or wool). Hoping someone in North America will sell them. But them prices at Haven wow
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by