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Eidos Napoli

Easily Amused

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Crosspost from NMWA:

Alright, so I decided to try the suit on before bringing it to my tailor. Some thoughts...

Most importantly, it is awesome. Also, as Greg indicated in the Eidos thread, the suit is significantly more wearable than pictures might indicate. By way of example, in my picture below I am wearing three patterns, and I do not believe that it is busy.

Funny enough, the trouser button closing the extended waistband did not "make it" to the trousers. However, in the extra buttons, it appears that there is a button that will work to secure the extended waistband. I am not sure if this is intentional or not, but in the long run it does not really matter (the buttons on the trousers are not shanked, so no reason local alterationist could not replicate what the factory produces). In any event, it appears that my trousers are the exception to the rule.

Another note, for those on the fence. The trousers fit a touch smaller than S/S 17, and a touch larger than F/W 16. That does not bother me in the least, however, as I found F/W 16 a bit too small, and S/S 17 a bit too larger (obviously, I preferred S/S 17, as a simple alteration to the waist fixed everything), and accordingly find F/W 17 to fit perfectly.

So without further adieu, some pictures:

img_8485-jpg.860520


img_8553-jpg.860518

img_8505-jpg.860519

Gorgeous suit, thanks for posting "live" shots. I used to think that POW looked awesome only in double breasted. I think I'm revising that opinion...
 

hrv123

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@Newc
I like your Eidos stuff better than your Despos suit.
 

Newcomer

Stylish Dinosaur
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@Newc
I like your Eidos stuff better than your Despos suit.

FullSizeRender (21).jpg

img_8485-jpg.860520

The long and short of it is that my Despos suit (and particularly, my Despos sportcoat) objectively fits better. It hugs my shoulders, it accommodates my dropped right shoulder (i.e., see my right side), it hugs my back better, it pulls less, and the arms are cleaner. Of course, it also should do all those things - it is bespoke, and I paid a premium for it over the Eidos suit(s). And further, I enjoy having a relationship with Chris where Chris is more than willing to tinker with my garments. It also moves better. The front stays shut, when I walk there is no collar gap, etc. I probably took about twenty pictures wearing my Eidos suit, and I picked the ones where there was no collar gap, a cleaner shoulder line, etc. In pictures, a lot of imperfections in fit are masked. Conversely, with my Despos suit, I can snap a picture and post away. And that translates into day-to-day life, such that I have regularly been stopped on the street (an abnormal event) and asked about my Despos suit. People severely underestimate how a garment moves, and how important that is to the fit.

Stylistically, I love both. I think that Despos' style looks best in bespoke. It is clean, professional, and it means business. I think that Eidos is a bit more casual, and I like that. And I am exceedingly happy with Eidos for a RTW fit - in fact, I could not be happier. Plus, it is at a realistic price point for me. There is a time and a place for wearing my grey Despos suit, and a time and a place for wearing my glenplaid Eidos suit. I do not really intend to pick one or the other.

One final note. I feel like the forum generally prefers soft tailoring - or even casual tailoring, might be a better way to put it. And I feel that I am moving farther and farther away from that, into a slightly more structured look.
 
Last edited:

clee1982

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I'm probably the few prefer structure look here too, at least in suits, I don't really have "casual suits"
 

Patrick R

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The long and short of it is that my Despos suit (and particularly, my Despos sportcoat) objectively fits better. It hugs my shoulders, it accommodates my dropped right shoulder (i.e., see my right side), it hugs my back better, it pulls less, and the arms are cleaner. Of course, it also should do all those things - it is bespoke, and I paid a premium for it over the Eidos suit(s). And further, I enjoy having a relationship with Chris where Chris is more than willing to tinker with my garments. It also moves better. The front stays shut, when I walk there is no collar gap, etc. I probably took about twenty pictures wearing my Eidos suit, and I picked the ones where there was no collar gap, a cleaner shoulder line, etc. In pictures, a lot of imperfections in fit are masked. Conversely, with my Despos suit, I can snap a picture and post away. And that translates into day-to-day life, such that I have regularly been stopped on the street (an abnormal event) and asked about my Despos suit. People severely underestimate how a garment moves, and how important that is to the fit.

Stylistically, I love both. I think that Despos' style looks best in bespoke. It is clean, professional, and it means business. I think that Eidos is a bit more casual, and I like that. And I am exceedingly happy with Eidos for a RTW fit - in fact, I could not be happier. Plus, it is at a realistic price point for me. There is a time and a place for wearing my grey Despos suit, and a time and a place for wearing my glenplaid Eidos suit. I do not really intend to pick one or the other.

One final note. I feel like the forum generally prefers soft tailoring - or even casual tailoring, might be a better way to put it. And I feel that I am moving farther and farther away from that, into a slightly more structured look.

I received an identical comment after I posted my recent Formosa purchase. I didn’t take the time to respond in full like this, but I could steal every point you make in your post above other than the “moving to a slightly more structured look,” because I don’t think I’m moving one way or the other. But every other point you make (including only ever taking a single picture of my Despos clothes and having to take many shots for anything else) is 100% straight from my brain.
 
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kashmir

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Man, I love Eidos and all (altho not so much the NMWA cut- I prefer the Augusto and Tenero), but it is what it is. Despos is a totally different beast
 

mossrockss

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so, regarding the structure vs unstructured points y'all were making, i realized a while back that totally unstructured is not my jam at all. the super round shoulder look isn't particularly flattering (on me at least). Eidos nailed it in my opinion with the Primo, Tenero, Ciro and NMWA cuts—a perfect amount of structure through the canvas with just the right amount of shoulder extension. So it flattens out your shoulder line and keeps the shoulder cap from being totally round, but not padded or too hard. but then when you move it's evident there's nothing underneath so it's still got a very natural silhouette. although it's fluctuated a bit and the NMWA cut in particular has changed season to season, it's still well within the realm of a natural shoulder.

perfection, to me, is my navy raw silk Tenero from SS15.

IMG_2144.jpg
 

hrv123

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My comment is not to bash Despos, just highlighting that I prefer the look of the Eidos on you. A lot of it has to do with overall aesthetic, but even the fit looks pretty spot on from these still pictures. Sure, maybe the Despos moves better but since you haven't posted videos of the movement of the two suits, all I have to judge are the pictures you've posted. When you compare the price of the two (no idea what Despos costs exactly, but I assume it's on par with most upper tier bespoke establishments) I feel like the value is geared more heavily in the favour of Eidos based on the fit you're getting from both vs the amount paid as well.

Your Despos sportcoat is spot on and I much prefer the fit of that one to the suit, especially the back which IIRC wasn't super clean (I may be a bit OCD for that).

Now a general comment, I'm not sure why we can't criticize any of the forum darlings i.e. Despos, Steed, Formosa, some of the affiliate vendors, etc. Yes, I've seen them all make wonderful stuff , but I've also seen some not so great stuff (i.e. Formosa from Crompton's article or my own Steed MTM). They may be great craftsmen, but sometimes, for whatever reason, things don't work. No one is infallible and I don't see a problem with criticism.
 

Patrick R

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I'm not sure why we can't criticize any of the forum darlings

Please don't take my comments as trying to make that point. Criticize away. My point is simply that I recognize in my own experience that there are things I value that the photos on the forum can't capture. It is an obvious point, I guess.
 

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