Eidos Napoli

[dylantheroberts]

It is charcoal.

We have offered exactly 2 black suits in EIDOS. Both have augusto jackets and sport pant bottoms. One is for this coming fall in a spongy black crepe flannel with a matching drawstring trouser and the other for SS18 in a cotton linen basketweave with a vintage military style chino bottom. They will be sold as separates and probably never worn as a suit but I liked the idea of a black suit with a deep indigo shirt.

Super excited for the black flannel augusto! I bought a tonal black seersucker suit on the cheap this summer and am getting way more wear out of it than I excepted. Looking forward to incorporating more black in my fall wardrobe this year.

 

[scottcw]

What size for a 36" waist, 6' 1" height?

Nick?

 

[metranger8694]

It is charcoal.

We have offered exactly 2 black suits in EIDOS. Both have augusto jackets and sport pant bottoms. One is for this coming fall in a spongy black crepe flannel with a matching drawstring trouser and the other for SS18 in a cotton linen basketweave with a vintage military style chino bottom. They will be sold as separates and probably never worn as a suit but I liked the idea of a black suit with a deep indigo shirt.

Antonio- I am trying to consolidate my thoughts to make my SS 18 pre-order purchase from Greg.

I have the size 48 2016 12 oz Burgundy Field Jacket that I am so enamored with. I am happily obliged to buy at least one more FJ and am wondering your feelings about the Black Linen/Cotton Faliero Sarti. I'm sort of on board about how folks feel about black suits(don't own one) but am considering this black FJ. I missed the OG Oatmeal FJ but the dark tan heavy linen looks pretty awesome.

And then there is the sizing question. The 2017 sizing slimmed up from years prior. Wondering if I should get the 48 or the 50.

Here is my 48. 43.5" chest: 18.5" shoulders. The 50 is smaller than this 48 everywhere but the shoulder width.

Also, I love the VBC light beige Hopsack SC. I look at it as the consummate casual light brown blazer but I have a concern.

I think Eidos lapels are so handsome but they seem most appropriate for a dressy SC/Suit jacket. They seem(at least to me) as too wide for a casual jacket. I noticed in the picture Greg posted of you wearing the jacket that you pop the collar and lapel. Which makes me wonder about it even more. Am I nuts?

Thanks for your time and thoughts!!

 

[Newcomer]

Composing this post caused me a great deal more bittersweet emotions and nostalgia than I expected, in particular going through old images and posts.
http://menswearmusings.tumblr.com/post/163503703877/thoughts-on-eidos-creative-director-antonio

Moss, that was a great post.

I echo a lot of your sentiments. I believe it is very likely that the relationship between Antonio and Isaia - at times - was strained, to the extent that Antonio wanted Eidos to "break out" while Isaia wanted Eidos to be an Isaia diffusion line.

I think the first couple of seasons were particularly special (I liked the summer-seaside season that you discussed, il pesce whatever). In those seasons, it felt like Antonio made every effort to (a) work within the confines of what Isaia wanted to make, i.e., tailoring, while (b) interjecting his own touch. Eidos created some wonderful patterns at that time, especially with respect to their suits, in very interesting patterns. I think the Eidos x NMWA pattern is about as good as it gets (and is far more flattering than what most of Isaia spits out). Eidos had creative, well-made, conservative tailoring, in a price between $1,000 - $1,500. I am truly, truly sad to see the end of that.

I also agree with your conclusion, Moss, that whatever new venture Antonio embarks upon, it likely will not offer tailoring at the $1,000 - $1,500 price point. It also seems that Antonio is less interested in that (although I do not want to put words in his mouth). Further, without the economies of scale that Isaia has, I doubt that anyone can really reach that price point.

You perfectly summed up what I appreciated most about Eidos. At its best, Eidos made casual clothing that was easy to wear and that appealed to the CM dresser. Eidos was something that I could understand. The silhouettes were common, but distinct. And much of the unique quality of the clothes derived from the interesting fabrics - which were chosen by Antonio's keen eye.

 

[gettoasty]

@NickPollica For the Sal pants if in between sizes do you recommend going TTS and take out the seat a little (granted if there is enough fabric) or go one size up and have the waist/seat taken as needed? My change would be small I figure but perhaps the general rule of thumb of sizing up and alter down is true here too. What is the spec like from one size up to the next (e.g. half an inch larger in the waist?)

 

[NickPollica]

AI am happily obliged to buy at least one more FJ and am wondering your feelings about the Black Linen/Cotton Faliero Sarti. I'm sort of on board about how folks feel about black suits(don't own one) but am considering this black FJ. I missed the OG Oatmeal FJ but the dark tan heavy linen looks pretty awesome.

And then there is the sizing question. The 2017 sizing slimmed up from years prior. Wondering if I should get the 48 or the 50.

Here is my 48. 43.5" chest: 18.5" shoulders. The 50 is smaller than this 48 everywhere but the shoulder width.

Also, I love the VBC light beige Hopsack SC. I look at it as the consummate casual light brown blazer but I have a concern.

I think Eidos lapels are so handsome but they seem most appropriate for a dressy SC/Suit jacket. They seem(at least to me) as too wide for a casual jacket. I noticed in the picture Greg posted of you wearing the jacket that you pop the collar and lapel. Which makes me wonder about it even more. Am I nuts?

Thanks for your time and thoughts!!

Kyle added the black Faliero Sarti swatch in at the buzzer and I was into it because we've never offered one in black. If you wear black often (or if you dress tonally in navys and blues like I have been known to do) then I think its a good option. I will still always say navy is the most versatile and the navy Faliero Sarti linen is incredible. Regarding size, I'm hesitant to give advice based on measurements but people seem to say it fits smaller. To be clear, the fit of the most recent iteration of the Ragosta jacket is actually the original fit. the fit was altered without my approval by our outerwear factory when Michelangelo temporarily closed and production was moved. The biggest change is the shoulder as the iteration you have has a substantially larger point to point.

The picture of me wearing the jacket with the collar up is the Augusto model, not the NMWA. I tend to like the NMWA for suits and Augusto for jackets, but I don't really wear odd jackets with ties anymore.

@NickPollica For the Sal pants if in between sizes do you recommend going TTS and take out the seat a little (granted if there is enough fabric) or go one size up and have the waist/seat taken as needed? My change would be small I figure but perhaps the general rule of thumb of sizing up and alter down is true here too. What is the spec like from one size up to the next (e.g. half an inch larger in the waist?)

I always recommend sizing up and tailoring down.

 

[YseanY]

@NickPollica For the Sal pants if in between sizes do you recommend going TTS and take out the seat a little (granted if there is enough fabric) or go one size up and have the waist/seat taken as needed? My change would be small I figure but perhaps the general rule of thumb of sizing up and alter down is true here too. What is the spec like from one size up to the next (e.g. half an inch larger in the waist?)

I think it would depend how either fits you. For me, I need to size up for the thigh/seat and bring in the waist as going with the smaller size, I don't think I could let out enough for thigh/seat.

 

[gettoasty]

@YseanY Thanks! The leg fits great, just needs a hem (based on the "NMWA" suit pants and Lorenzo pants I have). Just concerned with the seat and hip area. I am thinking the Sal fits similar to the "NMWA" suit pants but with a higher rise. And in that case I would probably size up on the Sal. (For the "NMWA" suit pants I am going to request and see if the seat can be let out a tad, it is noticeable when seated but standing fits perfectly.)

Also, what I do not know is if a higher rise naturally helps with tight hips. I am going to think no. And obviously the Lorenzo has no problems with the double pleats, so, the safe bet for the SS18 preorder is get more Lorenzo. But really like the way Sal looks too...

@NickPollica Thanks!

 

[ChetB]

Pleasantly surprised to find the Supply and Advise Lorenzos are single pleat, not double.

Will post pics soon.

 

[IJReilly]

Kind of excited about the Eidos break. The best thing about the brand was that traditional, high quality tailoring was designed together with more distinct pieces in a cohesive whole. As someone who appreciates good tailoring but also wears lots of street wear this really appealed to me.

 

[metranger8694]

Kyle added the black Faliero Sarti swatch in at the buzzer and I was into it because we've never offered one in black. If you wear black often (or if you dress tonally in navys and blues like I have been known to do) then I think its a good option. I will still always say navy is the most versatile and the navy Faliero Sarti linen is incredible. Regarding size, I'm hesitant to give advice based on measurements but people seem to say it fits smaller. To be clear, the fit of the most recent iteration of the Ragosta jacket is actually the original fit. the fit was altered without my approval by our outerwear factory when Michelangelo temporarily closed and production was moved. The biggest change is the shoulder as the iteration you have has a substantially larger point to point.

The picture of me wearing the jacket with the collar up is the Augusto model, not the NMWA. I tend to like the NMWA for suits and Augusto for jackets, but I don't really wear odd jackets with ties anymore.



I always recommend sizing up and tailoring down.

Thanks Antonio!

I would have also preferred the VBC light beige hopsack in the Augusto model. Great looking fabric though. Was there one like that ever made in Augusto? I remember a cotton/silk? one I think.

The Sarti Blue linen does look incredible but I already have a Valstar Blue linen Safari Jacket so it's a bit redundant.

I like the black linen FJ but I have to think about sizing. My 2016 FJ length is longer which is great. I think I'd therefore go with a 50 as, while maybe a bit shorter than my 48, the chest is still smaller than 2016. The shoulders are .4" wider for my approx. 18" shoulders. I don't think that wouldn't look to be too much bigger than the FJ pic I posted above.

To anyone that bought a pre 2017 FJ and then the newer, smaller model- did you keep the same smaller size or size up. Thanks.

 

[GoIrish]

Picked up the Hopsack navy jacket from the Saks sale after falling in love with the raw silk Tenero version this summer.

Anyone know if it's lined? As different Eidos seasons have lined and unlined versions.

Curious about this as well? Very close to pulling the trigger. Anyone have info?
http://www.saksfifthavenue.com/main...5379&P_name=Eidos&Ntt=eidos&N=0&bmUID=lScwFzO

 

[ocean_journal]

https://instagram.com/p/BXGbp_UhSZ4/

I've created a story together with my friend. We've been buzzing about this for a long time and now finally made it happen. Thought I should give a shout-out to you guys. I will upload to my Instagram for the coming weeks if you want to follow it. Have a look and I hope you will enjoy it. All smiles

Best regards,

Erik

 

[gettoasty]

Just dropped off my NMWA suit (Birdseye light wool) to the tailor. Some of the exchanges:

"This is a casual suit, I would leave the jacket alone." FWIW it does feel pretty good off the rack, sleeves are near perfect so we left that alone too. I might request at the next visit to take in the waist a tad and even out the sleeve length if needed. I was advised the vent would flare if I take in the body, which I want to avoid.

Other comments:
"Feels like silk" (It is 100% wool)
"Did you go to Europe to get this?"

Overall, pretty excited about this suit. For me it is the first "real suit" I purchased after going through mall brands (e.g. Uniqlo). Crossing my fingers this will my one suit since I don't wear them often. Fabric is ideal IMO for the Bay Area. I just need to be careful with snagging the fabric, something the tailor also pointed out.

Edit:
Barney's had up the bouclé peacoat and now is gone. There were a bunch of sizes listed. Curious if coat was posted in error or it just sold out. The item was up still a few hours ago and now it is gone (error page).

 

[YseanY]

Barney's had up the bouclé peacoat and now is gone. There were a bunch of sizes listed. Curious if coat was posted in error or it just sold out. The item was up still a few hours ago and now it is gone (error page).

I snagged a MD in the boucle peacoat and it shipped (when I saw it, there was only MD and LG). I'm hoping they send a size 48 per their size chart but I'm pretty sure it'll come as a 50, just hope it fits me as I believe these fit slightly on the larger side.