Eidos Napoli

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by hrv123, Aug 14, 2013.

  1. n2pua

    n2pua Well-Known Member

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    fit is EVERYTHING.

    most of everything we are saying won't matter at all if nothing fits on you.

    now, that aside, assuming you can wear both brands well, it then comes down to price vs. preference.

    for me personally, there is NOTHING on the market like Eidos and i mean that not just in terms of price, but even with the lapel pin removed, there is a language in antonio's design ..........

    i.e. "character" or to use one of antonio's words, "soul."

    formosa is a tremendous value in it's own right and greg's selection of fabrics speaks to why pre-orders and OTR sales do so well.


    however, when i see that lapel curve, slightly open quarters, soft shoulder, etc etc etc ........ i respond to it in a way that has never happened for me with formosa
     
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  2. canon5dfan

    canon5dfan Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for all the feedback guys. It's good to know the diminishing returns argument applies here. Bloomies has a sale right now and so does
    NMWA. I'll check both lines out to see how they fit. Anyone knew how eidos compare to a jort from suit supply?
     
  3. NickPollica

    NickPollica Well-Known Member

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    For the last few seasons bloomingdales has been running a basic program for suits in the two button Balthazar model (our version of the Isaia gregory model). We have it in navy and charcoal in an Angelico 4 season worsted cloth. I believe it retails for $1450 and doesn't go on sale.

    Jort is suit supply's machine made fully canvassed line, correct? I think that the biggest difference here is country of origin, with our tailoring being sewn in Italy and Suit Supply's in China. What the difference in price really comes down to is cost of labor, and the potential ethical implications of that.
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2017
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  4. mossrockss

    mossrockss Well-Known Member

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  5. clee1982

    clee1982 Well-Known Member

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    to me you're almost making it sound like same quality just cost difference...
     
  6. MZhammer

    MZhammer Well-Known Member

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    That may be the case, China has gotten relatively skilled at tailoring in the last 15 years and, if they're sourcing similar fabric and both fully machine made, then quality differences might be slight. At that point it comes down to perspective, fit, design and, as was already pointed out, the ethical implications of paying substandard wages in third world factories versus paying livable wages to a similarly skilled workforce in Italy.

    That doesn't seem wrong in my eyes.
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2017
  7. mossrockss

    mossrockss Well-Known Member

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    well, and again it's about the fit and design. suit supply fits me awfully. the design is ok but the extra that an eidos jacket/suit costs is worth it for the design, which i prefer. so it comes down to taste, again, more than quality of construction (and budget, of course, get what you can afford).
     
  8. clee1982

    clee1982 Well-Known Member

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    what's the ethical concern if it's mostly machine made? Definitely no sweatshop if it's like the modern Italian machine made suit manufacturers...
     
  9. clee1982

    clee1982 Well-Known Member

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    no doubt about fit and design, that's one part where a brand can truly add value (to the particular customer, soft shoulder might be value adding for one guy but big minus for another guy)
     
  10. mossrockss

    mossrockss Well-Known Member

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    well i think it has to do with wages, worker conditions, etc.

    think about Foxconn producing iPhones. Apple is more transparent than most about how much they work to improve the workers' conditions at the factories they use, yet we still hear stories of suicides, outrageous hours, etc.

    How much work does SuitSupply put into making sure the people making those $1k suits are working in safe building that isn't going to burn down because of shoddy construction out of greed from the factory owners? Do they make enough to live decently? Do they get regular breaks and work humane hours? Do they get any days off each week or are they expected to work 7 days a week? etc. etc.

    Antonio personally visits the factories and artisans making Eidos' products and personally vouches for them. So the "made in Italy" tag is not a gimmick, and the cost of labor is probably the major factor of the price difference.
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2017
  11. NickPollica

    NickPollica Well-Known Member

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    I haven't taken a Suit Supply Jort apart, but from what I understand the quality is comparable in that both styles are full canvas and both are sewn mostly by machine. The biggest differences in cost have to do with country of origin and business model. Our tailoring is sewn by Italians that I know are paid a fair wage. I can't speak to the specifics of Suit Supply's Chinese manufacturers, but I have experience in far east production from my days at RL from what I saw, even best Chinese manufacturers don't pay their workers a truly livable wage. The RL factories we used were like college campuses where the employees lived and their entire lives were highly subsidized on campus, which was fine until they went off site. This was, from what I saw, the best case scenario. Secondly, since we wholesale our collection, our garments will always be more expensive than a brand like Suit Supply that sells directly to the consumer. More people need to get paid during the process of getting our garments on the back of the final customer. That said, I know Suit Supply takes considerably larger margins on their products than we do. While I would never try and pretend that our garments are dramatically better than Suit Supply's just because they are made in Italy, I can personally vouch for ethical treatment of our workers and the time spent developing our patterns and exclusive textiles. At the end of the day, its about what deciding what is important to you.
     
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  12. wigglr

    wigglr Well-Known Member

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    Refreshing level of honesty
     
  13. NickPollica

    NickPollica Well-Known Member

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    Always been my problem.
     
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  14. canon5dfan

    canon5dfan Well-Known Member

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    @NickPollica Thanks for your refreshing candor on this subject. It's rare to get it. FWIW, I'm comfortable enough paying a premium for Eidos over Suit Supply, if it means better ethical standards. I think it's the 1000k jump to Sartoria Formosa that I'm very hesitant to do as that is definitely not chump change lol.

    Can anyone tell what the difference is between the two suits I listed on Bloomindales? I'm unclear what a basic slim fit and solid slub slim fit is lol.
     
  15. gdl203

    gdl203 Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]
    One million dollars!
     
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  16. ChetB

    ChetB Well-Known Member

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    All other considerations aside, I don't think I could buy a suit called "the Jort."
     
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  17. othertravel

    othertravel Well-Known Member

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    I've found that Suit Supply fabrics aren't that nice. Also, there are a few stores on the forum of Suit Supply jackets/suits starting to fray after a few uses.
     
  18. NickPollica

    NickPollica Well-Known Member

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    The Saks suits are Tenero. The "slub" suit on the bloomingdales site is a seasonal fabric but the model is the same.


    They work with nearly all the same mills we do (They are Vitale Barbers Canonico's largest account) when it comes to tailoring.
     
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  19. jtorres94

    jtorres94 Well-Known Member

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    I'll say Suit Supply is a great Company for the cost. I've never had nothing but good things from them when it comes to quality (horrible size control.)The Jort is an extremely stupid name but that suit looks pretty great for the cost and has became probably my favorite fit from them.

    I love Eidos but so far the suit shoulders just about always divot on me. Though only tried the Tenero and NMWA from previous years.
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2017
  20. canon5dfan

    canon5dfan Well-Known Member

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    LOL whoops. Brain fart :)

    Ahh much thanks for the clarification @NickPollica . So what's the difference between the slim fit and the slum on bloomies?
     

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