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Eidos Napoli

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by hrv123, Aug 14, 2013.

  1. JIMB

    JIMB Senior member

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    Jul 27, 2014
    FWIW I like the teal windowpane better, fits more into what I've seen of your casual style.
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. jtj48

    jtj48 Senior member

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    Apr 3, 2014
    

    Seconding this. BY FAR my most complimented jacket. People are suckers for light blue though, I'm pretty sure.
     
  3. NickPollica

    NickPollica Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    I sampled it as a suit and made ot for myself that way but the stores bought it as a jacket.
     
    2 people like this.
  4. hookem12387

    hookem12387 Senior member

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    I still owe you tenero 52L measurements, I totally forgot. But these look great. If you decide to return the teal windowpane, and it's a 52L, kindly return it to me instead.
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. mossrockss

    mossrockss Senior member

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    Haha, there were two on eBay, I think. Tipo is longer than Tenero, so depending what length you need, 52R may work for you.

    I'm prooooobably keeping them both.
     
  6. Chas Knight

    Chas Knight Well-Known Member

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    Oct 21, 2013
    I'm sorry for my lack of remembering, but could someone do a breakdown of the jacket/suit fits as they are currently (Tenero, NMWA, Ciro, Tipo, etc)? I always seem to keep getting them mixed up and would be nice to get a refresher.
     
  7. mossrockss

    mossrockss Senior member

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    Tipo—mostly dead. Supposedly some small specialty shops carry it still. No clue which. One of the most conservative cuts. 3-button. More classic length. Natural shoulder, but not totally unpadded (if you can call what it has pads—mostly just the canvas plus a little extra. Maybe even just another lay of canvas in the shoulder is almost what it feels like).

    [​IMG]

    Tenero—the main cut you'll find nowadays. Carried by most places that carry Eidos. 3-button. Less padding than the Tipo in the shoulder (i.e. almost none at all—just a lightweight canvas going up from the chest through the shoulder). More contemporary, shorter length. Slightly more open quarters than Tipo.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Notice one is shorter than the other. I've found length to be pretty inconsistent, by as much as 3/4". The shorter length is generally considered the length it's supposed to be, though.

    Lorenzo—defunct. Sold only for one season (FW14). 3-button. Wider shoulders. Swooping, curving, 4-inch lapel inspired by Florentine tailor Liverano.

    [​IMG]

    Ciro—descendent of the Lorenzo. afaik only Marcus Malmborg in Sweden carries it, at least insofar as he does MTM. Lapels still swoop and curve but the quarters have been closed up a bit more, and other modifications.

    [​IMG]

    NMWA—the other descendent of the Lorenzo, except modified specifically by Greg Lellouche and Antonio and sold exclusively by NMWA. It started as essentially the same as the Ciro, but has since deviated. 3-button. Lapels are now straight-cut. Length is longer than Ciro. Shoulders feel like they've been brought in as well (someone would have to confirm, but that's how it feels to me).

    [​IMG]

    ^^This is SS15 NMWA cut^^

    [​IMG]

    ^^This is FW15 NMWA cut^^

    [​IMG]

    ^^This is SS16 NMWA cut^^

    Primo—slimmest of the cuts, from my understanding. Similar to Tenero otherwise. 3-button. Not sure what else is different besides slimness.

    [​IMG]

    Balthazar—the cut that Bloomingdales carries now. Based on the Tipo, but shorter, and 2-button, with a slightly bellied lapel.

    I have no images of this to show. Maybe somebody else does!

    Lavato—the completely unstructured, washed blazers, which I don't think are produced anymore.

    No images of this either... Somebody else?
     
  8. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Ciro and NMWA jackets are the same patterns exactly, except that NMWA model has 1cm extra length as well as buttoning stance 1cm lower. Quarters are closed 1cm closer on NMWA vs Ciro. That's all the changes. Any other differences you may see are due to manufacturing changes between three different factories over the course of all these seasons - but would affect these two models the same way.

    For our suits, we also modified the base trousers to have extra rise and sit a little higher than the original model.

    Lorenzo/Ciro/NMWA are united by the same approach to the lapel, notch and roll. Tipo and Tenero have slimmer lapels with noticeably higher gorge.
     
    Last edited: Jul 14, 2016
    5 people like this.
  9. mossrockss

    mossrockss Senior member

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    Yes, thanks for clarifying! I've only tried on one Ciro over a year ago, but haven't seen one since.

    Also, nobody judge me for how clearly obsessed I am with Eidos LOL.
     
  10. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Great post - I just wanted to clarify the NMWA model info
     
    1 person likes this.
  11. TtownMD

    TtownMD Senior member

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    mossrockss thank you for posting !! Very informative sir !!
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. FLW

    FLW Senior member

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    In this thread I think your obsession qualifies you as a hero.

    Here's one for the community: I have a tweed SC from the first (or nearly the first) collection done by Antonio (FW '13, I think). The model is listed as GFDREW. Any clue what that is? Feels totally unstructured, shorter than the Tipo but unsure if it is as short as Balthazar. Anybody else have one?
     
    1 person likes this.
  13. rnguy001

    rnguy001 Senior member

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    I have a few Balthazar models from Bloomies, and I concur about the shape of the lapels. They appear to be similar to more 'mainstream' suit labels (for lack of a better description)
     
  14. daddyblitz

    daddyblitz Senior member

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    Aug 22, 2013
    Location:
    Houston/Chicago
    [​IMG]
    Just saw this on IG ,SS 17


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Much more on Eidos Napoli instagram!
     
    4 people like this.
  15. piyasil

    piyasil New Member

    Messages:
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    Aug 21, 2014
    

    I believe it is FREEDREW model which is developed for japanese market before Antonio's time. I found one on the thrift store in Japan a few months ago. It is lightly fused construction and fit small.
     
    1 person likes this.
  16. pleatedjeans

    pleatedjeans Well-Known Member

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    Jul 2, 2015
    The new season looks absolutely fantastic - I know the tailored pieces get a lot of love here, but the softer knits and casualwear pieces have always been my favourite.

    Speaking of the tailored pieces - I have a Lavato style shirt jacket, I'll try and remember and post some pictures here. It's definitely a bit small on me these days, I've worn it so much it's got a really nice beat in feel to it.
     
  17. tonio028

    tonio028 Senior member

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    SS17 looks great. Love the adaptation of the brand and how the casual gear just swing in a different direction in terms of inspiration,silhouette, etc. I'm curious how the retailers response and who picks up what. I can see Barney's picking up some of the more unique pieces.

    In other news, does anyone have experience with the unstructured Augusto jacket/coat from the current SS16 season? It's the one pictured her from Saks. I'm wondering if I should size it like my Field Jacket (EU 48) or size it like my Suit Jacket (EU 50). Can anyone shed some light?
     
    Last edited: Jul 15, 2016
  18. mossrockss

    mossrockss Senior member

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    That looks like it's knit, in contrast with the one i got—the medallion print one from barneys (same as this one at trunk). I got my normal sportcoat size. Here is how it fit me (see any of the 48 images above for sportcoat comparison lol).

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  19. mossrockss

    mossrockss Senior member

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    Thank you Antonio for continuously designing awesome casual takes on dinner jackets and formalwear that real life people can maybe sorta pull off in everyday life.

    Everyone wants to wear Purple Label but just look like waiters doing so. Your pieces however look much more at home in everyday life.
    :cheers:


    [​IMG]
     
  20. FLW

    FLW Senior member

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    May 20, 2011
    
    I really hope NMWA carries a decent number of these. This season's DB dinner jacket sold out in my size in less than three hours and was never to return...
     

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