Eidos Napoli

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by hrv123, Aug 14, 2013.

  1. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    Spalla camicia just means that the seams allowances are pressed towards the coat, like on a shirt. In theory at least it has nothing to do with the softness or amount of padding on the shoulder line.
     
  2. Vice

    Vice Active Member

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    Right. I know that none of the Eidos jackets have padding as I've heard from Antonio himself, but was wondering how he would describe how the shoulder is sewn on maybe, I guess. I was just recently re- reading more into what makes spalla camicia and manica camicia and all that jazz so was just wondering if their was a specific method to how they do their jackets.
     
  3. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    Almost sure that the seam is pressed open, but maybe Antonio can confirm.
     
  4. Vice

    Vice Active Member

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    That's what I was thinking is that they are pressed open.
     
  5. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Here are a few shots that may help understand how the sleeves are attached. Blue mini-houndstooth is Eidos, the other is constructed with the spalla camicia sleevehead. I think that this closer look allows to see the difference between the shirt sleeve shoulder which is visibly inset and top stitched; and the Eidos shoulder which is not inset and top-stitched in the spalla camicia style. Both have a good amount of grinze (excess fabric forming waterfall folds).

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    Last edited: Jul 17, 2015
  6. teddieriley

    teddieriley Senior member

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    Wait, you smell that?
    First time wearing my Sal trousers, which I had taken in at the waist a bit (inch). Awesome trews for sure. Only thing is I'm getting the frog mouth effect with the on-seam side pockets. I don't have that issue with other pants with off-seam (slanted) pockets. Anyone else having the same issue? Any design preference for the on vs. off-seam pockets @NickPollica ?
     
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2015
  7. designated

    designated Well-Known Member

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    I have that problem too, though I think it's more because the waist is taken in from the back thus pulling the fabric back and causing pocket flare - did you notice it before you took the waist in?
     
  8. teddieriley

    teddieriley Senior member

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    Wait, you smell that?
    

    Taking in from the back is partly the problem I'm sure, as I notice the pockets are a little further back across my hips. Before alteration, I'd say I had the same issue since I needed to cinch the side tabs quite a bit, causing the pockets to open. But, I noticed similar frog mouthing of the pockets with the couple of trews I own with on-seam pockets. I'm sure my hips themselves contribute to this since I'm not model thin. This is not really an issue with trews with off-seam pockets, even where I have had the waist taken in as much as 1.5".
     
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2015
  9. ComfortablyDumb

    ComfortablyDumb Senior member

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    I know we're all excited about ss16 but let's not forget the greatness that is the current season!

    This is an all Eidos (besides the PS), all ss15 look from the other day. Apologies for the poor pic and lighting.

    [​IMG]

    Silk/wool tipo
    Yellow longsleeve lupo
    Sobati linen trousers (with belt loops, not the Sal)
     
  10. Vice

    Vice Active Member

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    Bravisimo!
     
  11. badsha

    badsha Senior member

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    Purchased from Stanley Korshak?
     
  12. ComfortablyDumb

    ComfortablyDumb Senior member

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    The jacket? Nope, I got it from Burrows. I know SK had the same fabric, but they only carry the Tenero cut as far as I know, not the Tipo.
     
  13. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

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    I don't think the square looks good in this outfit. I think the rest does, though.
     
  14. ComfortablyDumb

    ComfortablyDumb Senior member

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    Admittedly, the square was an afterthought. The rest of the outfit is about as loud as I dress, so I didn't want to go for a bold square. I thought it worked alright. What would you recommend?
     
  15. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

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    I think cream/white linen stuffed casually, or no square at all.

    What I should have said was ... I think the square is too close in color to the jacket and doesn't look right. I've got nothing against the square itself.
     

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