Eidos Napoli

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by hrv123, Aug 14, 2013.

  1. Journeyman

    Journeyman Senior member

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    It's probably as easy to tailor the shoulders on Eidos jackets as it is on other jackets - which is to say, it's not easy at all.

    Just my personal opinion but I'd say that, if the shoulders of a particular jacket don't fit, then put the jacket back and look for a different jacket.
     
  2. FLW

    FLW Senior member

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    Shirts are sized by European scale as well. The 38 and 40 refer to neck sizes, I assume. 38 is roughly equivalent to 15 or 15.5 and 40 is roughly a 16 in US sizes.

    I have also noticed the slimness of the polos at Bloomie's, though other cuts do exist (I believe).

    By "tailor the shoulders" do you mean widen/narrow them? If so, that requires recutting the entire jacket. You would essentially be going MTM at that point.
     
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2015
  3. charliechan

    charliechan Senior member

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    Interesting my experience is as follows.

    Shirts - slim fit around chest - I still have to dart or take in the sides - I couldn't size down further though as the chest would be too tight. Would only wear tucked due to length (or because I am not tall)

    Work shirt (sample of 1) - Pre-darted, great fit, but a fair shorter so would look great untucked

    Lupo polos - A more relaxed (but still slim) fit, looks better untucked

    'Normal' placket polos - Very slim fit compared to the lupo polos, could wear tucked / untucked
     
  4. sacafotos

    sacafotos Senior member

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    @FLW
    @Journeyman

    I was afraid that would be the response. I only asked because of the threading that runs across the yoke; I thought I read that they indicate a jacket that hasn't been altered in the shoulders, which I took to mean that alteration is common. I didn't think it was.

    Thanks, fellas.

    @charliechan

    Great info! Cheers.
     
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2015
  5. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    @sacafotos

    I like that field jacket, perfect for summers in the City.

    I think the fit of the navy blazer is ok from what I can see, but more informed judgment requires a pic with blazer worn with a button down shirt tucked, your arms at side. I think the shoulders are ok and the wrinkles more to do with your stance. But hard to tell. If you already have a decent navy blazer, might go with the field jacket or navy shepherd's check.
     
  6. sacafotos

    sacafotos Senior member

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    @TweedyProf

    Navy gun/shepherds check was a pickup from the tailoring dept. It's super versatile, couldn't pass it up.

    The navy silk jacket is nice because I realized I can pair it with the Eidos yellow, pink, light blue, off white, and striped linen polos. Maybe I should grab a few of those shirts and call around about a Tenero version of the navy silk. Antonio said that cut is a bit shorter than the Tipo, which is what Bloomie's carries.

    I also noticed that certain colors accentuate the length, so I can get away with a longer jacket in some colors but not in others.

    The grey/pink window pane whose photo I posted earlier is the same size and cut as the navy silk, but appeared much longer on me.

    Not sure I posted this one of the navy, but it should suffice for what you're suggesting:

    EDIT: oops, I did post it. Quoted by DutchW above.

    I think the shoulders are fine. I'm just used to more casual, natural/soft shouldered jackets.
     
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2015
  7. MacktasticGDogg

    MacktasticGDogg Senior member

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    I got what appears to be the pop-over version of that chambray work shirt from Haberdash, although Haberdash indicates that it is a linen-cotton blend where Gentry indicates 100% cotton. It is also heavier than I expected but due to it being a linen-cotton blend (there is no tag indicating fabric composition, but from what I could tell it should indeed be a linen-cotton blend) I feel it will work great in warmer weather. I didn't think it was slimmer than my three other Eidos work shirts (the ones with 2 buttoned pockets and the multi-pen slots), but the sleeves are a little bit shorter, which is perfect for me since most Eidos shirt sleeves are a little long for me. I'm not sure if the body is shorter than normal, but I was able to tuck it in just fine. It instantly has become my favorite shirt.
     
  8. MacktasticGDogg

    MacktasticGDogg Senior member

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    I was able to try on the Lupo collared striped pop-overs last week. I think they are made at the same place as the shirts instead of the polos. The buttons appeared to be the same as the MOP ones from the shirts and has crow's foot stitching where the Lupo polos does not have this button/stitching combo. The sizing is also indicated by neck size like the shirts instead of S-M-L of the polos. They are nice and I'm tempted to get one, but I've been getting a crazy amount of shirts lately so need to exercise some restraint. :p
     
  9. NickPollica

    NickPollica Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    This jacket and the one that you see in Saca's earlier photos which is the same swatch as the brown window from nmwa) are two different jackets. This is a much paler brown with a light blue window and the Bloomingdales DB/NMWA SB is a deep chocolate with cream double window. IMHO brown sportcoats are very easy to wear and par with basically anything in your wardrobe. This jacket would look great with dark gray, cream, white and khaki trousers as well as any shade of denim. Brown also looks great with basically any shirt color. The windowpane is one of thise patterns I feel is great because you get to have a little fun without looking like a used car salesman in a crazy plaid jacket.
    the answer here for this spring season is more complicated than I would like, largely due to the fact that the supplier that produces my shirts (on the groud floor of his hpuse btw) does not speak english amd I have had a very hard time communicating to him the differences I want between our shirt models. As of next season (the coming fall) our shirts will go like this: Dress shirt body - slim and undarted. Cut long to be worn tucked in. Delivered crisp and unwashed which means that if you machine wash and dry your shirts that will shrink in length up to 3%. Sport shirt body - slightly roomier through the body but with rear darts to give more shape. Cut shorter than the dress shirt so that you have the option to wear untucked if you'd like. Delivered soft and washed. This means that each different fabric of sport shirt may fit slightly differently as each fabric shrinks slightly differently and the concept of preshrinking fabric before a garment is cut and sewn doesn't exist in Italy to my knowledge (this has been a war I have been fighting like you would not believe). The differences between sport and dress shirts that I have typed above are more or less the same as what is on the floor right now with some minor exceptions and those are the following: Other than our work shirt, our sport shirts were not produced darted and none were cut roomier so that when they were washed they tended to make up slightly smaller than our dress shirts. I would recommend sizing up here. The particular shirt you are talking about from gentry/haberdash is not cotton/linen but a handloomed indigo dyed cotton from Japan that we bleached and stonewashed. It is the real deal fellas. If you are going to own one denim/chambray style shirt, this should be a contender. Its weave is open but its on the gutsier side so that you can wear it year round. Due to the openess of the weave, how the fabric was produced and the rigorousness of the wash process, this shirt ended up shrinking more than a fee of the other sport shirts we offered this season. With this in mind I would definitely recommend sizing up here.
    See above regarding the fit of our woven shirts. We produce the polos with the same supplier as our sweaters (in Agerola, on the hillside above Amalfi). They are cut deliberately different from our woven shirts. I would not recommend sizing most people up in our polos unless you prefer a baggier fit as the overwhelming feedback we've received is that they are cut a slim TTS (like the majority of our collection).
     
  10. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    @NickPollica

    Antonio, I wonder if you might say something about the ties in the collection: construction, materials, aesthetic etc. They look very enticing...I find myself oddly tempted by the paisley stocked by Bloomingdale's...
     
  11. charliechan

    charliechan Senior member

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    Wow, thanks for all of that great detail Antonio!
    I bought TTS and at the moment the fit is spot on. So since it has done the rounds it shouldn't shrink (much) further right? Either way, I'm glad I bought it.. I'll just have to roll up the sleeves if it does shrink...

    Also curious as to whether the one at Lawrence Covell is the same one?
     
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2015
  12. NickPollica

    NickPollica Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    It should have done all the shrinking its going to do by now and the lawrence covell (and carson street) one is the same fabric.


    Happy to. The ties are four fold and hand sewn in Como and all the fabrics are exclusive to us. I develop all of our woven tie fabrics with Mantero Seta, which is one of the oldest silk suppliers in Italy. Their archive is has to be seen to be believed. I could spend a month digging there nd would make it through a quarter of it. I usually spend 1 or 2 days in Como digging through it and selecting historical patterns that make sense back to our seasonal inspiration. Once patterns are selected I select various different qualities to print on or weave into and work with their design team on recoloring them to fit into our seasonal stories. There are some really exceptional qualities in our tie offering that you just can't find in other places, like a silk and linen donegal garza grenadine, a brushed twill silk shappe that is madder printed (the only other vendor I know of that uses this quality is Kiton).
     
  13. europrep

    europrep Senior member

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    Curious what people's favorite Spring/Summer suit fabrics are from Eidos this season? Taking a look at the fabric book tomorrow but would like to have some ideas beforehand. Thanks
     
  14. mossrockss

    mossrockss Senior member

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    Yeah, this thing is awesome. I would strongly consider it as my next spring/summer jacket after the navy and brown jackets I just picked up. Furreal, though, I'm out of money, sadly…
     
  15. jimstyles

    jimstyles Member

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    Sorry, man. We sometimes miss e-mails sent the [email protected] address. Would you please resend your questions to me at [email protected] ? I'll make sure to take care of you.

    [​IMG]

    And here I am wearing the brown windowpane Tenero jacket. The color in this photo is pretty much spot on.

    -Jim
     

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