Eidos Napoli

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by hrv123, Aug 14, 2013.

  1. hrv123

    hrv123 Senior member

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    Looking for some sizing advice on the Lupo polos. I wear a 54 in Eidos and 52 in Formosa. Wide shoulders, big drop (8-10). Dress shirts tend to be around 44 inch chest, 19 inch shoulder. I'm thinking an XL? Any thoughts?
     
  2. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'm interested in this piece in a Tipo, but not sure anyone got it except in the Tenero

    [​IMG]
     
  3. heldentenor

    heldentenor Senior member

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    Tweedy, that is a great looking jacket. I'm also curious to hear about the 100% silk hopsacks once people get their hands on them.
     
  4. NewYawker

    NewYawker Senior member

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    ^^ - That navy silk hopsack from haberdash caught my eye as well. Have been thinking about picking it up with the discount currently being offered.
     
  5. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I have two concerns with the Tenero for my build: the slightly shorter length (the Tipo is at the short length of the acceptable range for me...a matter of taste) and also I think a less constructed shoulder. But that fabric is really nice in pictures.

    NYC and SF forumites, help us out here! [​IMG]
     
  6. NickPollica

    NickPollica Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    This is my favorite summer quality we offer. Its not really a hopsack more of a panama/fresco. Very open weave. Breathes amazingly well and wears really light. Just so you know, its the same quality and weave as the brown suit separates, brown windowpane and black tuxedo on NMWA.


    Just out of curiosity - what is an acceptable length for you? The tipo is literally 2-3cm longer than any other Italian RTW jacket I know. The tenero is the same story - most of our stores asked for it to be shorter. At 75cm on a size 50R, I think that its a good representation of a Neapolitan sport jacket that has has tradtionally be cut slightly shorter stylistically.
     
  7. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    Some Eidos half sports shirt (probably need to wipe the mirror...)
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  8. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    @NickPollica

    Antonio, I remember you mentioning earlier that you have been asked to shorten your jackets and I, for one, am glad that you have them at the various lengths you offer, and that the Tipo is as long as it is. I'm 6 feet, and I find my own tastes lead me to a 29.5-31 inch length for RTW, depending on how the jacket is cut. I doubt the 29inch length of a 48R Tenero will be too short. Mostly at that point, it's the effect on the button stance which will often rise up as the jacket length decreases. I don't tolerate a high stance.

    But while I might have your thoughts...

    I'm curious about your placement of the gorge on the Tipo as it's higher than the Ciro/Lorenzo/NMWA cut. In the end, I've come to like the fact that it is higher despite initial uncertainty. It seems like it gives a more dramatic line upward of the lapel (not broken by the gorge) but also a broader lapel in the end. Well, that's my rationalization, but you might have a reason?

    Anyway, lots of terrific stuff again. Thanks for that.
     
  9. Pink Socks

    Pink Socks Senior member

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    Yes. Get XL. See my previous post on this a week back. I too am a 54 in Eidos sportscoats. Wearing my XL navy Lupo polo now. It is a thing of beauty.
     
  10. sacafotos

    sacafotos Senior member

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    Where are you finding the polos? Everywhere seems sold out in my size (S/36).
     
  11. ComfortablyDumb

    ComfortablyDumb Senior member

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    Haberdash seems to have smalls in stock for every colour except yellow.
     
  12. NickPollica

    NickPollica Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    The Tipo/Tenero/Primo were the only models developed for the first season and they all have the exact same lapel/gorge. We tried to make our lapel distinct so that you could recognize an Eidos jacket without looking at the label (what I was taught is called branding in design). It is wider than most of what is being marketed by our competitors with a defined arc that cuts inward dramatically. This draws the eye up from the button point to the shoulders making them look more broad and the waist more narrow. Raising the gorge lengthens that line and accentuates the overall effect. For our first fall season I wanted to develop a model that paid homage to Florentine tailoring and the result was the Lorenzo. The Florentine silhouette creates (to my eye) a similar optical illusion in a different way by lowering a lower gorge but carrying that arc almost as a half moon through the quarters, opening them much more dramatically. I think the overall effect is very similar in the end, despite the fact that the ways of getting there are different.

    Just so people know for certain, the Ciro is the evolution of the Lorenzo, which I wore for a season and wanted to tweak to fit a broader group of people.

    The NMWA is basically Greg's feedback on his tweaks to the Lorenzo. The Ciro and the NMWA are very, very similar with only a minute difference in length, button stance and quarter closure being the variables. Most people that respond to the NMWA will likely be as happy in the Ciro and vice versa.
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2015
  13. ComfortablyDumb

    ComfortablyDumb Senior member

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    Antonio, do you know which shops will be carrying the Ciro this season?

    I know Haymakers has the one grey suit in the Ciro, but that's all I've found so far. Really interested in trying it.
     
  14. NickPollica

    NickPollica Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    I believe they are the only ones. Sadly, it is one of those things that I designed thinking that we would almost certainly not sell, based on what is happening in the market.

    What's funny is that its the model we sell for MTM almost exclusively.

    That said, if you like how it looks you should try the NMWA as I would wear them interchangeably.
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2015
  15. LeBeef

    LeBeef Senior member

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    A question on shoulder expression, and please pardon if I'm misusing terms (still learning): it appears to me that all models have soft shoulders, but would they all be considered spalla camicia? It seems that there is variability in the amount of shirring and puffiness to the shoulders between, and sometimes within, models, but I wasn't sure if that is due to different construction, different shoulder anatomy in the wearers, or just the variability of how waterfall sleeves are made.
     

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