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Eidos Napoli at Pitti Uomo 85

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by unbelragazzo, Mar 2, 2014.

  1. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I could tell Antonio of EidosNapoli (aka @NickPollica here on Styleforum) was very much looking forward to Pitti this year. Not just because Eidos and parent company Isaia seem to be the darlings of the menswear hashtag every time the Florence fair rolls around, but because Antonio has focused this collection of designs around Florentine styles – in particular the Florentine craftsman, rather than the gentleman.

    Some of the outfits look like what Michelangelo might wear if he were alive today. The artist was famous for entertaining guests in clothes paint-smeared and dusty with workshop shrapnel. The Eidos collection isn't so bohemian as that, but the fabrics are rough rather than crisp, with donegal weaves, crumpled scarves, and waffle knits. I particularly liked the casual rough wool jacket with caramel buttons pictured below.

    Given the Florentine inspiration, there is of course casentino as well. The bright orange and green colors of traditional casentino cloth are splattered throughout the rest of the designs. The tailored jackets take after the cut of Liverano, the famed tailor of Florence's elite. You can see Antonio wearing one of these jackets below, with the sweeping curve from the gorge through the open quarters and welted pockets typical of Liverano's styling (Antonio's collar sprezz probably more a Neapolitan influence).

    I went to the Eidos booth dreading another Isaia diffusion line, but was happy to find an independent creative direction. Antonio has an impressive confidence and fluency with menswear idiots idioms for a man of such a young age. Next Pitti I will be looking forward to visiting his booth as much as he'll be looking forward to showing it.

    Eidos is carried by Styleforum affiliate Carson Street Clothiers, and will be at No Man Walks Alone starting this fall.

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    Last edited: Mar 4, 2014
    6 people like this.
  2. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Senior member

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    Nice post. I really like that green knit in the first pic.
     
  3. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Same here. I'm sure it's well outside my price range, though.
     
  4. Baron

    Baron Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Is that a casentino blouson? Clever, I'd wear that. I like the colors throughout the collection.
     
  5. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    Didn't know they make outwear and sweaters as well, good stuff
     
  6. thegreatgatsby

    thegreatgatsby Senior member

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    There is an ebay seller Lord Midas [http://www.ebay.com/sch/lordmidasdeals/m.html] who offers Isaia for less money than Eidos retails for (and my perception is that Eidos is a lower end spin-off, but correct me if I'm wrong).

    Regardless of the price-point of Eidos being higer than I want to spend, I am taken with the sleekness (of the silhouettes) of the wardrobe pieces (particularly the outerwear), and the British influences (the heavy knit cardigan) with the Italian tailoring (to make it less boxy).

    I see a great deal of Tom Ford in the pleated check suit (3-piece), and the hooded fur-lined parka (neither of which Ford invented, of course --- I do like, however, the idea that some of these design details and features might now be available for under $1K (in a blazer), under $500 (in a sweater), and under $1.5 K (in a suit). [The plus being that Isaia still exerts some quality control, it's still made in Italy, and the fabrics will be first rate].

    But...then I went to Carson Street Clothiers, and learned that I was incorrect. http://carsonstreetclothiers.com/brands/eidos.html

    A blazer will set you back $1,400 (plus VAT and NYC tax) --- that's $1,650 or so.

    Not a particularly good deal for a sister brand of Isaia.

    Am I reading things wrong? Is this on par with Isaia?
     
    Last edited: Mar 2, 2014
  7. NickPollica

    NickPollica Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    @thegreatgatsby - prices are dictated by fabric. The jacket you saw at Carson is a Loro Piana fabric that would be retail for arounk 4k at Isaia. The goal is not to be the cheapest here - its about value. Im proud that we can offer full canvassed clothing (and sportswear to go with it) thats entirely made in italy using the best fabrics in the world for a price that is actually accessible. We offer a large selection of jackets for under 1K as well, you just may not have seen them because Thankfully Carson sold through them!
     
    Last edited: Mar 2, 2014
    3 people like this.
  8. thegreatgatsby

    thegreatgatsby Senior member

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    @np:
    Thanks for that ---
    And congrats on selling through at CSC. That's no small feat.

    I very badly want the green (mossy gnarled) cardigan above. [It may even be a piece of outwear - as it appears to be over a toggle button sweater, so perhaps it's a collarless jacket?]

    Is that available - and, if so, how much, and where?

    (I need a 38/40 US)[ATTACHMENT=8542]eidos.jpeg (4,371k. jpeg file)[/ATTACHMENT]
     
    Last edited: Mar 2, 2014
  9. jaywhyy

    jaywhyy Senior member

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    I picked up that jacket--a great specked wool/linen/silk blend--that Antonio is wearing in the picture above at Bloomingdale's SF yesterday. Definetely prefer Eidos to Caruso at this point.
     
    Last edited: Mar 2, 2014
  10. NickPollica

    NickPollica Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    @thegreatgatsby - Thats actually a gray heathered casentino wool blouson. Its $995 and will be available at Bloomingdales as well as a few other retailers next fall (this is all next fall's collection).

    @jaywhyy - sounds like our brown summer donegal! I was wearing a winter version but the jacket you got is awesome!
     
    Last edited: Mar 2, 2014
  11. thegreatgatsby

    thegreatgatsby Senior member

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    @np - let me know if I can put in an advance order for it - or if you have any specifics on the model (for reference when shopping)

    PM if appropriate

    -Can you find out if Bloomingdales outside of NY (upstate NY, White Plains, NY) will also be carrying your line?
     
    Last edited: Mar 2, 2014
  12. DutchW

    DutchW Senior member

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    @np - Aside from Carson Street, where else can I find Eidos online?
     
  13. thegreatgatsby

    thegreatgatsby Senior member

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    It will be at Bloomingdales
     
  14. Pink Socks

    Pink Socks Senior member

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    Eidos, to my eye, has the most interesting stuff around at the moment. The designs, the details (esp. the pockets), the fabric, the silhouette are all fantastic. I wish someone here in Australia carried the brand.
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. thegreatgatsby

    thegreatgatsby Senior member

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  16. Pink Socks

    Pink Socks Senior member

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    Thanks - not sure about Harrolds but I will ask next time I am in there.

    I spoke with my good friend Christian Kimber (http://christiankimber.com/) who works for Henry Buck about Eidos. He met Antonio at Pitti. I think given the Australian market Henry Bucks are waiting to see the brand grow and become more recognisable before they would stock it. Unfortunate but understandable. I think they will be stocking Isaia though
     
  17. thegreatgatsby

    thegreatgatsby Senior member

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    That's funny - I was thinking Henry Buck, but my understanding was they only sold high end shoes and accessories.

    Glad to hear Buck has expanded.

    Good luck --- I'm sure you could also find someone to buy as your proxy.

    If there's something you're looking for, let me know - or let @np know --- he can have a sales associate at Bloomingdales in NYC hold it for you (send you a phone pic), and you could do a CC order.
     
  18. Pink Socks

    Pink Socks Senior member

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    Thanks GG. Henry Bucks main store is actually closed at the moment, they are planning a major reopening soon (April I think) - a lot more brands, targeting a younger market in the upstairs store, with the traditional stuff downstairs.

    Are you Australian? I am a Scot who has been living in Melbourne for the last 6 years.

    In terms of Eidos I can find the stuff online (or at least I should be able to when the new collection is released). it is more that I would love to be able to handle and try on pretty much the whole collection before deciding what to buy. Thanks for the offer though - I might take you up if things prove difficult to get.

    Need to sell some stuff on eBay before any new purchases anyway.
     
  19. lamber

    lamber Member

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    Can anyone talk about the construction of the jackets?

    Is there and hand tailoring in the collar, shoulders or buttonholes? I love the aesthetic of Eidos but haven't been able to find out about their construction.

    Hopefully someone will start carrying the line in Miami so I can take a look at them.
     
  20. NickPollica

    NickPollica Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    No Miami doors yet. The amount of hand tailoring on our garments is minimal which is reflected by the price. Eidos is a mostly machine stitched fully canvassed garment.
     
    Last edited: Mar 2, 2014

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