Edward Greens at the Polo Mansion

[A Harris]

RLPL is made by the Cantarelli group, which owns St. Andrews. So, you're getting what essentially is a St. Andrews made suit (not sure if Cantarelli would consider it a St. Andrews made garment, or one made by Cantarelli -- who cares).

This is apparently the case, RLPL deals with the Cantarelli group instead of directly with Saint Andrew's, as I've seen a fair number of RLPL garments that were made in the Cantarelli factory instead of by Saint Andrew's. Same group, but it is worth mentioning that these are different factories, in different parts of Italy. A Cantarelli suit is not a Saint Andrew's suit, they are distinctly different.

I like Cantarelli's product very much though, and have no problem with Ralph Lauren using them, as long as the final garments are appropriately priced (lower, by 40-50%.)

 

[dorian]

Okay, I'm truly confused now. RLPL suits are not being made by Saint Andrew's? They might be Cantarelli...?

I feel like I've been living an illusion...

 

[johnapril]

Look what I started....

 

[johnnynorman3]

I'm still curious about the Blue Label MTM being FULLY canvassed. Can anyone corroborate this? If so, I don't see the reason why you'd pay nearly triple for a PL suit, since the Blue Label styling is really fantastic and soft IMO.

A. Harris, how long has PL been Cantarelli Group commissioned? I have a PL suit circa 2002 (I think) and am wondering if it is pure St. Andrews.

 

[Phil]

I can only go by what I was told by both the tailor at the Mansion and by my salesperson (whom I have worked with for several years), and they both have said that RL Blue label (only MTM) are fully canvassed.

Now, ofcourse, this brings up another issue entirely, that has been discussed at length, and that is - who cares if its half or full canvassed, because the truth is if its really that hard to tell, it really cant make an appreciable difference in quality or longevity.

I own several RTW Blue label suits, and I was told they are half canvassed, with some fusing. They have held up great, and arent any stiffer feeling than any other full canvas suits I own.

 

[drizzt3117]

A further question, is how the purple label suits compare to the italian BB Golden Fleece suits, which are also made by Cantarelli, they are certainly a different cut, but in terms of materials and construction.

 

[Phil]

The blue label suits ARE NOT MADE BY Cantarelli...

 

[Phil]

If you are asking a straight comparision between RL blue label and BB golden fleece, the main differences I notice are in the styling. RL has the best shoulder I have ever had the pleasure of wearing (at least for me) .Just about no padding, like NO padding. I love it. The BB suits I have tried on make me feel like a linebacker.

 

[drizzt3117]

Sorry, I meant purple label. Obviously the PL suits are made with better fabrics, but I meant main differences construction-wise, handwork, etc.

 

[oldskool]

That's what I'm talking about.

 

[dorian]

Yeah, me too

 

[johnnynorman3]

Phil, you are right that the RTW Blue Label suits, though half-canvassed, use the best fusing around. In addition, the lapels are canvassed and that is what determines the nice roll. I think that Polo Blue Label is probably the only fused suit I'd be willing to plunk good money on nowadays (I don't buy designer suits; if I did I would consider a Varvatos suit or something like that).

That's crazy that the MTM might be fully canvassed. That would be a great deal if it is, and would further make me wonder why one would go Purple Label RTW (and probably even MTM), as the styling nowadays seems even better for the Blue Label suits and they are so soft that the extra handwork on the PL suits doesn't make as big of a difference. Certainly not a $2000 difference.

 

[johnnynorman3]

If you are asking a straight comparision between RL blue label and BB golden fleece, the main differences I notice are in the styling.  RL has the best shoulder I have ever had the pleasure of wearing (at least for me) .Just about no padding, like NO padding. I love it.  The BB suits I have tried on make me feel like a linebacker.

Italian made Golden Fleeces, which are by Cantarelli it appears, have two different shoulder cuts that I've seen. One cut is a very lightly padded, sloped shoulder. Not too much unlike Polo BL, though maybe slightly more padding. The other cut has a slightly less sloped shoulder, still very light padding in the shoulder, but a very perceptible roping at the shoulder -- sort of like a Zegna on sedatives.

Most, but not all, Greenfield made GFs have heavier padding and wider shoulder cut. I'm curious what the Greenfield cut is like in the Silver Label suits and the MTM (I think Linux Pro got a couple of Silver Label ones).

 

[zjpj83]

Here is the shoulder of an Italian Golden Fleece. Very soft.

 

[Phil]

I agree with you, the Blue label MTM suits are a great deal. Keep in mind they are giving me a $200 discount on each suit, so that helps the price a bit. I was told they were fully canvassed, but who knows. I love the suits, the price is right, and I love wearing them. If they are full or half canvassed, I could care less. None of the so called experts on here or anywhere else can even tell the difference with Blue label suits, so they must be doing something right.