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Edward Greens at the Polo Mansion

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Phil, Mar 10, 2005.

  1. drizzt3117

    drizzt3117 Senior member

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    A further question, is how the purple label suits compare to the italian BB Golden Fleece suits, which are also made by Cantarelli, they are certainly a different cut, but in terms of materials and construction.
     
  2. Phil

    Phil Senior member

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    The blue label suits ARE NOT MADE BY Cantarelli...
     
  3. Phil

    Phil Senior member

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    If you are asking a straight comparision between RL blue label and BB golden fleece, the main differences I notice are in the styling. RL has the best shoulder I have ever had the pleasure of wearing (at least for me) .Just about no padding, like NO padding. I love it. The BB suits I have tried on make me feel like a linebacker.
     
  4. drizzt3117

    drizzt3117 Senior member

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    Sorry, I meant purple label. Obviously the PL suits are made with better fabrics, but I meant main differences construction-wise, handwork, etc.
     
  5. oldskool

    oldskool Senior member

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    That's what I'm talking about.
     
  6. dorian

    dorian Senior member

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  7. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    Phil, you are right that the RTW Blue Label suits, though half-canvassed, use the best fusing around. In addition, the lapels are canvassed and that is what determines the nice roll. I think that Polo Blue Label is probably the only fused suit I'd be willing to plunk good money on nowadays (I don't buy designer suits; if I did I would consider a Varvatos suit or something like that).

    That's crazy that the MTM might be fully canvassed. That would be a great deal if it is, and would further make me wonder why one would go Purple Label RTW (and probably even MTM), as the styling nowadays seems even better for the Blue Label suits and they are so soft that the extra handwork on the PL suits doesn't make as big of a difference. Certainly not a $2000 difference.
     
  8. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    Italian made Golden Fleeces, which are by Cantarelli it appears, have two different shoulder cuts that I've seen. One cut is a very lightly padded, sloped shoulder. Not too much unlike Polo BL, though maybe slightly more padding. The other cut has a slightly less sloped shoulder, still very light padding in the shoulder, but a very perceptible roping at the shoulder -- sort of like a Zegna on sedatives.

    Most, but not all, Greenfield made GFs have heavier padding and wider shoulder cut. I'm curious what the Greenfield cut is like in the Silver Label suits and the MTM (I think Linux Pro got a couple of Silver Label ones).
     
  9. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Senior member

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    Here is the shoulder of an Italian Golden Fleece. Very soft. [​IMG]
     
  10. Phil

    Phil Senior member

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    I agree with you, the Blue label MTM suits are a great deal. Keep in mind they are giving me a $200 discount on each suit, so that helps the price a bit. I was told they were fully canvassed, but who knows. I love the suits, the price is right, and I love wearing them. If they are full or half canvassed, I could care less. None of the so called experts on here or anywhere else can even tell the difference with Blue label suits, so they must be doing something right.
     
  11. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    All the RLPL/Cantarelli items I've seen have been sportcoats - usually corduroy etc. They are easy to pick out, the buttonholes are not handstitched, and they are generally priced much lower. Also they are more recent, all the early Italian made RLPL suits/jackets were Saint Andrew's, unless you bought samples, in which case there are all sorts of different makers (RL commissioned samples from a variety of makers before going with Saint Andrews.)
     
  12. Mike C.

    Mike C. Senior member

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    This is incorrect... ALL blue label suits are in fact FULLY canvassed. There is no fusing. It is made by machine, not hand canvassed.

    I heard this from a very reputable source, not from a salesperson or by a "pinch" test.
     
  13. JLibourel

    JLibourel Senior member

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    When I was inquiring about Blue Label MTM last year, I was distinctly told they were "semi-fused."

    I was in the Beverly Hills Polo Shop last Saturday. They had a pair of the tan (or light brown) and white RLPL/EG spectators there, and they were indeed gorgeous. In general, I do not pine after much greater wealth than I possess (which ain't much.), but this time I did find myself wishing I were sufficiently wealthy that the $850 price tag (well over $900 with tax) would be a mere bagatelle. I could, of course, have bought them (if they had 'em in my size and the last were compatible with my foot), but I spending that kind of money on a pair of shoes that I would only wear a few times a year would be extravagant folly of the worst sort (in my circumstances, anyway). Predictably, my wife hated those beautiful spectators. "Unbelievably flashy" was her verdict. Sometimes I don't know what is the matter with that woman.
     
  14. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Regarding the Blue Label suits, unless something has changed in the last season or so, the chest and the front most certainly are fused. It was like that on the Polo MTM suit that I bought about 5 years ago, but it's possible that things have changed since then.

    Regarding the spectators, I had always been skeptical about white suede until I saw it on the Purple Label spectators. Absolutely gorgeous. I have no idea how you would keep it clean, but absolutely gorgeous.
     
  15. Mike C.

    Mike C. Senior member

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    Nope, they are machine canvassed. I can't say what it was last year or 5 years ago.
     
  16. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Again, unless something has changed in the past season or so, you're simply wrong.
     
  17. Mike C.

    Mike C. Senior member

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    (Mike C. @ Mar. 10 2005,21:26) Nope, they are machine canvassed. I can't say what it was last year or 5 years ago.
    Again, unless something has changed in the past season or so, you're simply wrong.
    Who told you this? I spoke with someone high up at Corneliani, I doubt they were lying. The person you spoke to was misinformed or you're assuming. I assmumed they were somewhat fused as well, but they're not.
     
  18. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    When the fabric on the chest and front of the jacket is laminated with and inseparable from some sort of lining, that jacket is fused. It doesn't matter what someone high up at Corneliani says. It's easily observable. Again, this might have changed in the past season or so, but the Polo suits from as recent as Fall 2004 are certainly fused.
     
  19. Mike C.

    Mike C. Senior member

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    Wrong... I knew you assumed it. You're pinch test isn't 100%. Neither is mine; that isn't the default way of telling.
     
  20. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I've got to go with JCusey on this one. When I roll the fabric between my fingers and there is clearly another layer laminated to the chest (not hard to pick up, it doubles the thickness) I don't care if Ralph Lauren himself swears otherwise in court, the suit is fused...
     

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