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Edward Greens at the Polo Mansion

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Phil, Mar 10, 2005.

  1. Phil

    Phil Senior member

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    I was over at the Rhinelander Mansion yesterday placing my order for a few MTM suits and took a look at the Edward Greens they had. I have never been overwhelmed by the choices RLPL makes with EG, but I was pleasantly suprised. First of all, on a round table, there were at least 15 models, as part of the RLPL MTM EG shoe program. I dont know if those models are available unless you want to special order them. Great selection though - boots, elastic sided shoes, oxfords, loafers.

    However, on the wall rack, were the new spring models for sale. 2 models in particular caught my eye, both spectators. One pair brown and white, the other black and white. Picturing the shoes in my head this morning, I am pretty sure they were the Cardiff model, only turned into spectators. What I loved most about them was the white sections of the shoes were suede (I think there is a proper term for white or cream suede, but it escapes me at the moment). 99% of specs these days have white calfskin, but the effect of the suede with the antiqued brown (looked like Edwardian Antique to me), was stunning. Retail $850.
     
  2. gracian

    gracian Senior member

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    Any idea how much the MTM Edward Greens were running for?
     
  3. bry2000

    bry2000 Senior member

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    for the month on March, they are waiving the extra fee. Shoes are running $850. This is for made to order, not made to measure.
     
  4. Phil

    Phil Senior member

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    Yes, bry, sorry for the confusion. You can pick the last, the soles, the leather, etc. but you have to order a stock size.
     
  5. bry2000

    bry2000 Senior member

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    phil, I stopped by on Sunday to check out MTM suit swatches and the RLPL shoe promotion. On the shoe promotion, the salesperson I spoke to did not know if you could specify the last. I assumed you could, but he did not know. They had many beautiful models and it is great to have a choice of color.

    Re: the MTM suit swatches, I was not blown away by the blue label selection, which I thought was fairly skimpy and uninspired. What did you select?
     
  6. Phil

    Phil Senior member

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    bry-I get 2 RL MTM suits each spring, then 2 again each fall. As a whole, I am always more impressed with their fall/winter selections. I narrowed it down to 3 fabrics this spring, and I am going back next week to make my final decision:

    1. charcoal gray, very subtle, thin herringbone. Its a gray on gray herringbone, with very thin herringbones, if that makes sense. The fabric basically looks solid, unless you are very close to it. I got it in a 3 button, duel vent (its the POLO IV model). 2 pair of pants, one pleated, one plain front, and a plain front vest (no lapels).

    2. Mid gray solid worsted, tropical weight. A basic, and I needed a new one. Peak lapels, 2 button, duel vents (the Fairbanks model). 2 pants, 1 pleated, 1 plain front, and a lapeled vest.

    3. British khaki raw silk. This was a beautiful fabric, with all the little nubs and pulls in it. Price was very high ($1895.00 for just a 2 piece), that I am still mulling it over.

    As for the shoes, you may be right about not being able to pick the last, but that would surprise me. I will try to find out more next week.
     
  7. Phil

    Phil Senior member

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    Just to elaborate, the pricing for the gray herringbone was, after the $200 discount, $1350 for the 3 piece suit. The second pair of pants will be extra. The price for the solid gray, also 3 piece, after the discount, was $1235.00
     
  8. whnay.

    whnay. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Very good prices for quality MTM.
     
  9. Phil

    Phil Senior member

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    I know it, thats why I have been a loyal customer for years. In fact, they are really a bit more than MTM. I routinely ask for sutble adjustments that I know most MTM programs wont accomodate. These are the 2 adjustments I had them make on my last order:

    1. Vest. For some reason RL makes the shortest vests. I am long torsoed, so its a bad combination. They took some measurements and are getting me all my vests from now on with my own sizing.

    2. Pant leg opening. I have always liked the 1930s -esque styling of large leg openings down by the shoes. Not huge openings, but RL has 18 1/4 inch openings, and I prefer something closer to 19 1/4 (kind of like Paul Stuarts). RL was nice enough to accomodate me.
     
  10. johnapril

    johnapril Senior member

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    Phil,

    Is the RLPL a fully-canvassed suit. And who is the current manufacturer, if you happen to know? I might stop by the Chicago store.

    Thanks.
     
  11. Phil

    Phil Senior member

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    Well, RLPL is made by St. Andrews, in Italy, if I recall. I get the RL Blue Label MTM, which is fully canvassed (unlike the RTW blue labels according to some people), and they are made by Corneliani, in Italy.
     
  12. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    RLPL is made by the Cantarelli group, which owns St. Andrews. So, you're getting what essentially is a St. Andrews made suit (not sure if Cantarelli would consider it a St. Andrews made garment, or one made by Cantarelli -- who cares). I think the prices for MTM Purple Label start at $3000 and go up to $10000. The fabrics are lovely, even in the $3000 range. There is a premium for the Ralph name, but the suits are beautiful. Very soft, especially if you go with models that are minimally padded (might want to ask, since newer models have more padding than even 2002 versions).
     
  13. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Senior member

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    Those Polo prices are great MTM prices.
     
  14. drizzt3117

    drizzt3117 Senior member

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    I thought they were still made by Corneliani, unless they changed it recently with the RLBL rollout?
     
  15. Phil

    Phil Senior member

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    PURPLE LABEL - Cantarelli Group
    BLUE LABEL - Corneliani
     
  16. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This is apparently the case, RLPL deals with the Cantarelli group instead of directly with Saint Andrew's, as I've seen a fair number of RLPL garments that were made in the Cantarelli factory instead of by Saint Andrew's. Same group, but it is worth mentioning that these are different factories, in different parts of Italy. A Cantarelli suit is not a Saint Andrew's suit, they are distinctly different.

    I like Cantarelli's product very much though, and have no problem with Ralph Lauren using them, as long as the final garments are appropriately priced (lower, by 40-50%.)
     
  17. dorian

    dorian Senior member

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    Okay, I'm truly confused now. RLPL suits are not being made by Saint Andrew's? They might be Cantarelli...?

    I feel like I've been living an illusion...
     
  18. johnapril

    johnapril Senior member

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    Look what I started....
     
  19. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    I'm still curious about the Blue Label MTM being FULLY canvassed. Can anyone corroborate this? If so, I don't see the reason why you'd pay nearly triple for a PL suit, since the Blue Label styling is really fantastic and soft IMO.

    A. Harris, how long has PL been Cantarelli Group commissioned? I have a PL suit circa 2002 (I think) and am wondering if it is pure St. Andrews.
     
  20. Phil

    Phil Senior member

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    I can only go by what I was told by both the tailor at the Mansion and by my salesperson (whom I have worked with for several years), and they both have said that RL Blue label (only MTM) are fully canvassed.

    Now, ofcourse, this brings up another issue entirely, that has been discussed at length, and that is - who cares if its half or full canvassed, because the truth is if its really that hard to tell, it really cant make an appreciable difference in quality or longevity.

    I own several RTW Blue label suits, and I was told they are half canvassed, with some fusing. They have held up great, and arent any stiffer feeling than any other full canvas suits I own.
     

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