EDWARD GREEN Vs. Gaziano & Girling Leathers

[Alan Bee]

I disagree with dg70 being equal to EGs 82. I tried to order dg70, but it turned out way too tight for me. For others with a slimmer forefoot, this might be the other way around.
I personally found dg70 too sharp, but that's more of an esthetic issue.
I love the mh71 in both e and f width. The GG06 has to be one of the most perfect round toe lasts on 202E and two pairs on 82E. My favorite is 202. At some point, I may try out the 11d as opposed to 10.5 e.

As others have said, I believe my EG's holds up really well. Of all the shoes I've had and seen, EG (and Alden) looks best in the long run. Recently purchased a JM weston, and this seems to be similar.
Alfred Sargent too holds up well with use, not quite as well as EG but close.

@Stefan88 Thank you for chiming in. I think I've made up my mind to move my order to Rothschild Vintage Oak done on GG06. I can't take the chance of a "D" width (flat feet with low instep and narrow heels) and a narrow pointy toe last all at once.

On your EG 202 vs 82 last commentary, I just received a pair of EG 202D Chelsea Cap toes. It has to be the most beautiful and sublime shoe I've ever seen. The 202 in D or C (I have both Chelseas in Dark Oak and Black) beats any round toe last by EG, or any I've ever seen (except of course GG06 which I hope to try). But for some reason, folks on here still prefer the "sharper" 82 last.

Some comparison pics (EG 202D vs. 82E vs. 202C)

 

[RogerP]

82 is my fave Galway last by far.

 

[thehkshoeshiner]

You won't find too many people here critique GG leathers, but don't you notice that almost all shoes you see (as you say aside from new) where the creased parts look dry and have lost their factory finish? Take a peek at p1647 on their thread - its a great pic to show how GG ages - sure, some people think its great, but you get an idea of the difference between a factory finish and a worn shoe, and that dryness and inability to take the polishes around the creases. Haven't seen such a difference on EG, and seen quite a few pics where they are clearly more beautiful with age. Some say its the crust leather GG uses, but its a very frustrating feeling polishing your shoes only to lose most of the look as you bend your foot. What I have found though what helps is to drench them in a cream (Saphir or other) many times (like 20-30), but here again the creases are problematic. I know people here don't like me saying this, but thats my honest view, and for a shoe in this price range, I'm not hugely satisfied.

Creases can look good with cream and wax applied and brushed off with 2-3 layers alone.

 

[shirtingfantasy]

Creases can look good with cream and wax applied and brushed off with 2-3 layers alone.

It depends. Coarse creasing remains coarse after wax, cream or even re-dye.

Study the photos below (from my friends and I). The first two are GG (crust and then boxcalf), followed by Marquess bespoke (boxcalf) and finally JL (museum). All showing top-range or high normal performance of the respective brand.

 

[Xiaogou]

GG uses aniline leather. That may be the issue vs EG.

In regards to the orthotics, if you have plantar fasciitis, look into EPAT treatment or Topaz surgery. I did Topaz. My feet are ? now.

 

[LThomsen]

Any new updates/ insights on how EG leather compares to the leather G & G uses?

 

[AlexanderCzimback]

Gents,

Far from my intention to ignite a flame war as I know shoes are a form of religion on this forum. I joined this forum in 2006/7 and since then have have worn almost exclusively Edward Green Shoes. I did begin with Crockett & Jones (Hand Grade) but hardly took another look at them following my first experience with Edward Green at Saks 5th. I have also tried a couple of John Lobb (Classics not Prestige) during this period and always return to my Greens.

Heres the current dilemma, a fortunate one if it ever existed. I now wear orthotics and had to chuck all my shoes (15 EG's and 2 Lobbs) acquired since 2007. I am gradually rebuilding and choosing more carefully, avoiding the allure of "sales" and paying full fare for exactly what fits the more limited wardrobe. As opposed to say, grabbing stuff just on sale, yielding the sentimental "fear of missing out".

Once more, I have designed the new shoe wardrobe around EG. But I am attracted to some of the styling on Gaziano & Girling. Specifically, I was looking to fill in a hole for a dress full-brogue in dark oak. In EG it was down to the Malvern or Inverness. Both fine choices but then the G&G Rothschild in the DG70 last caught my eye and oh, what a beautiful brogue. Will Boehlke (A Suitable Wardrobe) called it the most beautiful RTW Brogue he's ever set eyes upon. A number of others agree.

So I decided to have a go and ordered one (Made-to-Order) from Jermyn Street. A very basic traditional Vintage Oak Calf on the DG70 "Smart Round" last, no bells no whistles. I was advised to stick to my EG (82 last) sizing 11.5/12D or 11.5UK(D) for the DG70 last.

AGING

I have to say though that looking through hundreds of pictures on the web (I have never seen a pair live), I arrive at the conclusion that the G&G shoes don't "age" as well as EG. They look simply delicious when new, but the pictures I see of the used shoes on the G&G thread here and elsewhere leave me a bit cold. The leathers look very wrinkly, creased and even dry when they've been worn (even as few as 3 times). I am not sure if its a case of G&G folks not maintaining their shoes but I highly doubt this.

My old EG's on the other hand, I have a couple pair that I managed to hold onto (right size) which are over 10 years old. If you didn't take a look at the soles (undersides), you would vow they were completely brand new shoes, only more beautiful because of the softened leather and patina. Even in pictures on the EG thread, I see this with other older EG shoes.

So yes, I've already taken the plunge into the G&G forest (if only for variety) but I wonder if there are any who own both who could comment on the aging (which is not to say, durability) of either shoe. Also feel free to comment on styling and overall quality based on your experience.

Thank you

Alan Bee

Hi Alan,
I to have been a big fan of Edward Green shoes I own three different pairs, and I have the Galway boot. I also have G&G one boot and one Malvern slip on. my Galway boot is 12 years old and still in amazing condition. The G&G 2 pairs I paid $1700 for each are not even close in the Quality of the leather, when I was shining them when they were new, I found imperfections in the leather, not just one several and you're right they do wrinkle very quickly. I wish I could show you my 14 year-old Galway Edward Green boot. It's amazing how good it looks. I'm sending them in Edward Green to have them resold and redone. That's how good the letter is so I completely agree with you, no contest I gave up on G&G. Edward Green makes a much better looking rounded classic toe, and also the monk strap from Edward Green is much better looking than the one from G&G.

Cheers

 

[ryanluo23]

EG shoes/boots hold up very well! Best in my opinion, even when compared to GG and all my STCssssssssss - I am no expert but it's probably due to the clicking of the leather as oppose to the type of leather is used.

 

[ryanluo23]

*duplicate*

 

[Scuppers]

Just buy Lobb - yes, style differentiation is considerable, but the leathers are far better.

 

[AlexanderCzimback]

I would agree, John Lobb is off the charts, they buy and process their leather like no one else, and you pay a premium , worth it. You are correct that they have a different style.
I love their store in London, My Disneyland !

 

[jazznpool]

I would agree, John Lobb is off the charts, they buy and process their leather like no one else, and you pay a premium , worth it. You are correct that they have a different style.
I love their store in London, My Disneyland !

On a recent visit to Northampton I was fortunate to spend a few hours at both EG and GG workshops. I have been manufacturing leather products for 20 years. I looked at hides on premises and asked about sourcing and right of refusal on incoming goods. I believe there is a good deal of overlap of leather sourcing. Both companies are very discriminating (probably) to the chagrin of their suppliers. Some leather imperfections might be difficult for the clicker to see. I have the highest regard for the processes and workmanship at both places. Next time I'm in Northampton I'd like to see if I can tour the John Lobb Paris workshop--although I am not interested in their style of shoes.

 

[jonathanS]

Not totally unrelated, but I also think the leathers used by cleverley for their Anthony cleverley line are quite good.

 

[barutanseijin]

Oops

 

[JustPullHarder]

Not totally unrelated, but I also think the leathers used by cleverley for their Anthony cleverley line are quite good.

That’s probably because they are made by EG and therefore more likely than not use the same leather. I agree with this sentiment though.