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Edward Green Top Drawer Worth the Money?

The Well Shoed Chap

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I have recently purchased a pair of Belgravia with split toe seams under their Top Drawer specifications.
I placed my order directly with their Jermyn Street store in March 2019.
The 1st delivery made in November 2019 came out without the split toe seams that I specifically requested at the time of order, so I returned the pair to their factory.
The 2nd delivery made in October 2020 did have the split toe seams, but there are a significant clearance between the raised apron stitches and the end of the split toe seams per the attached photo. The pair was returned to the factory anyways since they failed to finish the upper leather with my requested tone.
Because I did not find the split toe seams beautiful at all, I immediately contacted their Managing Directress, who clearly pronounced that it is not a manufacturing fault and there must be a clearance with Belgravia patterns in order to avoid tearing of the leather, and they are going to re-polish the pair to the requested tone and deliver the shoes as they are.
I am puzzled with the comment made by the Managing Directress because I know there are shoes made by EG with the same raised apron with little clearance per the other photo attached hereto.
My order is not a standard MTO, but a top drawer, and I just wonder if my TD order worth the money, and EG worth my trust?
 

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JustPullHarder

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Perhaps they did that in the past and too many people were returning them due to tears?

Getting the spec completely wrong is pretty had though. My last MTO they forgot my toe plates.
 

JFWR

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I have recently purchased a pair of Belgravia with split toe seams under their Top Drawer specifications.
I placed my order directly with their Jermyn Street store in March 2019.
The 1st delivery made in November 2019 came out without the split toe seams that I specifically requested at the time of order, so I returned the pair to their factory.
The 2nd delivery made in October 2020 did have the split toe seams, but there are a significant clearance between the raised apron stitches and the end of the split toe seams per the attached photo. The pair was returned to the factory anyways since they failed to finish the upper leather with my requested tone.
Because I did not find the split toe seams beautiful at all, I immediately contacted their Managing Directress, who clearly pronounced that it is not a manufacturing fault and there must be a clearance with Belgravia patterns in order to avoid tearing of the leather, and they are going to re-polish the pair to the requested tone and deliver the shoes as they are.
I am puzzled with the comment made by the Managing Directress because I know there are shoes made by EG with the same raised apron with little clearance per the other photo attached hereto.
My order is not a standard MTO, but a top drawer, and I just wonder if my TD order worth the money, and EG worth my trust?
Those split toes look hideous. From what I understood, Top Drawer is meant to be the highest grade of custom MTO they offer. As it so happens, these shoes look terrible because that clearance entirely defeats the point of a split toe in the first place, that it properly split the toe.

I'd say you should contact the owner of Edward Green and speak to them directly about this concern. You're shelling out 1700 pounnd sterling for these shoes. That ought to get you top regard.
 

daizawaguy

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Oh is that the same managing directress that on seeing my foot pronounced me to have `such a narrow wonderful` foot, and put me into a D fitting. After wearing the shoes, and having worn E for the past 30 years, realized that I was taken for a ride - I returned to the shop to find out they didn't have any E, and it was a sales trick - crafty and cunning trickster - $1500 down the drain. Oh and by the way, those shoes would have trouble even being sold in the factory seconds bin. Absolutely NOT worth the money, and you have been conned.
 
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The Well Shoed Chap

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Perhaps they did that in the past and too many people were returning them due to tears?

Getting the spec completely wrong is pretty had though. My last MTO they forgot my toe plates.
Yes, they do not pay attention to the specifications, indeed.
Have a nice day
 

The Well Shoed Chap

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Oh is that the same managing directress that on seeing my foot pronounced me to have `such a narrow wonderful` foot, and put me into a D fitting. After wearing the shoes, and having worn E for the past 30 years, realized that I was taken for a ride - I returned to the shop to find out they didn't have any E, and it was a sales trick. Off with her head! She pretends to have a royal air, but is a crafty and cunning trickster - $1500 down the drain.
I guess there is only one Managing Directress in Northampton shoe industry as far as I am concerned.
 
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daizawaguy

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Oh, I am from Setagaya-Daita by the way.
No way! You should be a BRASS customer then - now those are fine shoes. EG makes decent English shoes, but honestly for that price you would have to have much much more - its the price of a Japanese bespoke right? Crazy really!
 

daizawaguy

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Here is the message of the managing directress, indeed I do not enjoy wearing my EG shoes despite of her comments!:

I would like to explain there is a technical reason for the toe seam not to reach the saddle and the need for it to be shorter : this is not a fault.
Belgravia has a hand sewn apron but this is a different form of hand sewing to that used for the split toe seam.
The apron of Belgravia is attached by piercing holes around the edge and the forepart of the shoe and then sewing them together through the holes (by hand).
This is known as ‘needle stitching’ : rather a basic name since all sewing requires a needle, but that is a fact.
The toe seam is completely different : both edges of the cut surface are juxtaposed and linked by sewing with a flexible needle (made from a pig’s bristle) inside the leather rather than through from top to bottom.
This form of sewing cannot be juxtaposed to the needle stitching : there is necessarily a distance between them because otherwise the hand sewn stitching, which is inside the calfskin, would cause the leather to split.
Another interesting point, not relevant in this instance but of which you should be aware, is that cordovan leather cannot be hand sewn. Again, this is because of the potential to split.
I hope this has helped you to understand the process and that you will enjoy wearing your Edward Green shoes.
I remember her words `Oh you have such a fine narrow elegant foot`....really she meant I have no E so we will sell you a D....

Sounds like a fine tale to me....
 

The Well Shoed Chap

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I have just graduated from EG bachelar degree, and go into Master degree of G&G, and hopefully continue to Doctor degree of Main D'or with a little extra funds!
 

daizawaguy

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I have just graduated from EG bachelar degree, and go into Master degree of G&G, and hopefully continue to Doctor degree of Main D'or with a little extra funds!
I'll let you into a little secret....and hopefully do you a favor - skip the Masters. I've had five degrees there - one was so squeaky that it had to go the same way as my EG, and the sizes are all over the place - I sent one back to the UK to be checked, and got the same type of letter from one of their MD`s - and have you ever seen a GG that has aged beautifully? They all seem to have dry vamps and cant take a polish. I have seen beautifully aged EG, but never an aged GG- they are all dry and look terrible - now what does that tell you about the leathers - if you live in Japan, save your coins and go straight to the Grand Masters - these RTW at the top end of the UK brands are way over priced. Go over to the Japan bespoke and RTW thread and see what fine work there is there...Welome to the shoe family by the way
 

Braid

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I have recently purchased a pair of Belgravia with split toe seams under their Top Drawer specifications.
I placed my order directly with their Jermyn Street store in March 2019.
The 1st delivery made in November 2019 came out without the split toe seams that I specifically requested at the time of order, so I returned the pair to their factory.
The 2nd delivery made in October 2020 did have the split toe seams, but there are a significant clearance between the raised apron stitches and the end of the split toe seams per the attached photo. The pair was returned to the factory anyways since they failed to finish the upper leather with my requested tone.
Because I did not find the split toe seams beautiful at all, I immediately contacted their Managing Directress, who clearly pronounced that it is not a manufacturing fault and there must be a clearance with Belgravia patterns in order to avoid tearing of the leather, and they are going to re-polish the pair to the requested tone and deliver the shoes as they are.
I am puzzled with the comment made by the Managing Directress because I know there are shoes made by EG with the same raised apron with little clearance per the other photo attached hereto.
My order is not a standard MTO, but a top drawer, and I just wonder if my TD order worth the money, and EG worth my trust?
I agree the toe doesn't look very good. They should have warned you beforehand that having a split toe on this particular apron would result in a very different look compared to the classic split toe.

When you requested the split toe design did they mention it would look differently from the usual one because of the different apron? Did they provide any picture? If not I think they are at fault as none of the EG split toes looks like this one
 

The Well Shoed Chap

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Dear Sensei,
Thank you for your very kind and wise tips.
I have already had a couple of the master degree lessons from Tony, and my shoes are not old enough to determine the aging, but I would say their oak bark soles from Mr. Parr of Devon smell just as good as Croggons of Cornwall back in 80's and early 90's.
It's a shame that EG stays with Rendenbach, which are not fully oak barked.
 

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The Well Shoed Chap

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I agree the toe doesn't look very good. They should have warned you beforehand that having a split toe on this particular apron would result in a very different look compared to the classic split toe.

When you requested the split toe design did they mention it would look differently from the usual one because of the different apron? Did they provide any picture? If not I think they are at fault as none of the EG split toes looks like this one
Thank you for your kind advice.
Attached for your reference is the sketch drawing provided from EG at the time of order, which clearly shows the split toe stitches all way through from the sole edge to the apron.
People at EG just do not put their foot in my shoe....
 

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