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Edward Green - the best RTW?

Avebury

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To my mind, the top three would be Church's, C + J and EG. Tricker's are there or there about. Probably put at 4. However, if you're after a robust, sturdy, traditional no-nonsense country boot or brogue (e.g. Bourton or Keswick) that you can kick about in, then Tricker's are probably top. After all, would you really want to give a pair of £540 EG boot some rough treatment? Probably not. This raises the question of whether 'country boot' is simply a classification or not. Tricker's, uniquely, refer to their boot as 'market day' boots. This tells you where they are coming from.

So sticking with the top three (I don't know about Tricker's other lines), what truly differentiates them? Are they all about the same quality, or are there subtle differences? If the differences are subtle, this may suggest that it's really a matter of personal taste - quality is not the issue.

From my own perspective, I own a pair of C+J "Westfield" semi-brogues in Tan Burnished and pair of Church's "Canberra" Oxfords in Tabac (really chestnut). Having looked at Edward Green, I do not think 'gosh, they are so much better'. There are of course a greater range of colours (e.g. Edwardian Burnt Pine) and the finish, I think, is slighter better. However, that's all my eye can detect in the limited time I had to look at them. They seem equal to the C + J Handgrades.

The other factor is, of course, bottom line, shoe are made to be worn. they wil be scuffed up, bashed about, re-soled, etc. If they are not looked after, they will rapidly decline. In other words, you have to factor in function and the human element into any debate about quality.

It would be interesting to read your views on this subject. Personally, I think if you're able to afford a pair of MTW shoes retailling at £540, excluding shoe trees, you might think about going bespoke. After all, one pair is not enough is it - you'd need to rotate them everyday.

The other point is that there are some extremely good 'lower end' shoes out there. Shouldn't only think about the trinity. Barker make some superb shoes. I often wear a pair of "Hamilton" brogues. They are splendid. A heavy blocked heel, storm welt and waterproof lining. Rare indeed. They look new after a year. In my view, they are better than Church's "Grasmere".
 

academe

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I think Gaziano & Girling also make RTW and I would put them up there with EG, and also ahead of C&J or Church's. Alfred Sargeant is also pretty good, from what I've seen. What about JM Weston?

My ranking would be:

top tier RTW: EG, G&G, (Lobb's, JM Weston?)

"second" tier: C&J

"third" tier Church's, AS, Trickers

There's an old thread knocking around about the hierarchy of British shoemakers, which may be of use to you...
 

yfyf

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English RTW or worldwide? There are other examples of excellent but pricey RTW shoes. Vass, G&G, Lattanzi, etc

Also, I would not consider Church top tier anymore. Last time I went in and had a poke around, I was a bit shocked by how bad things had gotten.
 

amerikajinda

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Well, for English makers, you have your John Lobb Paris, then Edward Green, Crockett & Jones, Grenson, Tricker's, Barker, Cheaney, Loake, Alfred Sargent, Schnieder Boots, New & Lingwood, Wildsmith, GJ Cleverley, Peal, etc.
 

mimile

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Originally Posted by Avebury
To my mind, the top three would be Church's, C + J and EG. Tricker's are there or there about. Probably put at 4. However, if you're after a robust, sturdy, traditional no-nonsense country boot or brogue (e.g. Bourton or Keswick) that you can kick about in, then Tricker's are probably top. After all, would you really want to give a pair of £540 EG boot some rough treatment? Probably not. This raises the question of whether 'country boot' is simply a classification or not. Tricker's, uniquely, refer to their boot as 'market day' boots. This tells you where they are coming from.

So sticking with the top three (I don't know about Tricker's other lines), what truly differentiates them? Are they all about the same quality, or are there subtle differences? If the differences are subtle, this may suggest that it's really a matter of personal taste - quality is not the issue.

From my own perspective, I own a pair of C+J "Westfield" semi-brogues in Tan Burnished and pair of Church's "Canberra" Oxfords in Tabac (really chestnut). Having looked at Edward Green, I do not think 'gosh, they are so much better'. There are of course a greater range of colours (e.g. Edwardian Burnt Pine) and the finish, I think, is slighter better. However, that's all my eye can detect in the limited time I had to look at them. They seem equal to the C + J Handgrades.


The other factor is, of course, bottom line, shoe are made to be worn. they wil be scuffed up, bashed about, re-soled, etc. If they are not looked after, they will rapidly decline. In other words, you have to factor in function and the human element into any debate about quality.

It would be interesting to read your views on this subject. Personally, I think if you're able to afford a pair of MTW shoes retailling at £540, excluding shoe trees, you might think about going bespoke. After all, one pair is not enough is it - you'd need to rotate them everyday.

The other point is that there are some extremely good 'lower end' shoes out there. Shouldn't only think about the trinity. Barker make some superb shoes. I often wear a pair of "Hamilton" brogues. They are splendid. A heavy blocked heel, storm welt and waterproof lining. Rare indeed. They look new after a year. In my view, they are better than Church's "Grasmere".




I think that the choice of shoes is a complex process, in which I consider: the quality of the construction, the price, the shape (the last), and the use I am making of the shoes. I only choose Goodyear-welted or handmade shoes. All the brands you mention belong to this category.
IMHO, Barker, Loake, are not expensive, often not beautiful and not well made. Trickers and AS have very well made shoes, at reasonable prices, but they are not very nice. C&J are a little bit more expensive, but they are both well made and very nice. G&G, EG an Lobb are very well made, very expensive and very nice. Vass is less expensive than the last 3, but it is at least as good and nice.
So everything dependes on how much you are ready to pay, how you like the last and how it fits.
 

gazman70k

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Avebury;1638710 said:
To my mind, the top three would be Church's, C + J and EG. Tricker's are there or there about. QUOTE]


"Best" without specific categorisation is like nailing jello to a tree. What constitute best? How does one objectively measure best? What subjective measures have been demonstrated to indicate best?

All these need to be taken into consideration and hence it is difficult to quantify.

For me, based on ownership, I would put JLP and G&G up there as impressive RTW. JLP primarily for their fit, styling and leather quality. G&G primarily for their fit, construction and comfort. All very subjective. I have my first pair of EG's on route so I will reserve any comments until then.

My other favourite is Stefano Bemer because his line of RTW are all hand made and finished, if one values that.

Gaz
 

JayJay

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Originally Posted by yfyf
English RTW or worldwide? There are other examples of excellent but pricey RTW shoes. Vass, G&G, Lattanzi, etc

Also, I would not consider Church top tier anymore. Last time I went in and had a poke around, I was a bit shocked by how bad things had gotten.

+1
 

woolymammoth

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Originally Posted by gazman70k
My other favourite is Stefano Bemer because his line of RTW are all hand made and finished, if one values that. Gaz

Can the Stefano Bemer RTW collection be seen/purchased in the United States anywhere? Thank you.
 

TheFoo

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Wouldn't Lattanzi blow all the previously mentioned shoes out of the water?
 

aportnoy

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Originally Posted by mafoofan
Wouldn't Lattanzi blow all the previously mentioned shoes out of the water?

Yes, based purely on amount of handwork and/or quality of construction. Except for Vass, that is.
 

woolymammoth

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Originally Posted by mafoofan
Wouldn't Lattanzi blow all the previously mentioned shoes out of the water?

Admittedly not my favorite shoes but I must say they are my most comfortable RTW shoes, just like wearing slippers even after a long day...

 

TheFoo

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Originally Posted by aportnoy
Yes, based purely on amount of handwork and/or quality of construction. Except for Vass, that is.

I was under the impression that, though Vass offers more handwork than almost any other RTW brand and offers a ridiculously good bargain, Lattanzi is till tops in absolute quality.
 

amerikajinda

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Originally Posted by woolymammoth
Admittedly not my favorite shoes but I must say they are my most comfortable RTW shoes, just like wearing slippers even after a long day...

Very nice! Silvano's work is certainly in the top-tier, along with G&G, JLP and Edward Green.
 

aportnoy

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Originally Posted by mafoofan
I was under the impression that, though Vass offers more handwork than almost any other RTW brand and offers a ridiculously good bargain, Lattanzi is till tops in absolute quality.
I believe they are both entirely hand welted and offer top of the line results in their fancy stitching options ala Norvegese or Goyser. Just comparing the shoes in my own wardrobe they seem to be on a par but the real experts like Bengal will have a more informed perspective, no doubt. From my own experience, St. Crispin's RTW is also in this league.
 

TheFoo

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Originally Posted by amerikajinda
Very nice! Silvano's work is certainly in the top-tier, along with G&G, JLP and Edward Green.

The latter three aren't close, I don't think. Not nearly as much handwork.

Originally Posted by aportnoy
I believe they are both entirely hand welted and offer top of the line results in their fancy stitching options ala Norvegese or Goyser.

Just comparing the shoes in my own wardrobe they seem to be on a par but the real experts like Bengal will have a more informed perspective, no doubt.

From my own experience, St. Crispin's RTW is also in this league.


Ah gotcha. If I only I could figure out my Vass size . . .

Oh well. It's Alden for me.
 

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