Edward green - made to order decisions

[Phil]

Well, its that time of year again for me, or at least it will be in about a months time, when I take delivery on a pair of Warwick boots. I am going to order a new pair, and I have my choices pretty narrowed down. Everyone here was such a tremendous help when I placed my EG stowe order (I tried posting a pic of them with no success), that I figure I will put the question out there again to all the shoe experts here. I am leaning toward the "atlee", which I am under the assumption is a side elastic shoe. I remember seeing a pic of it on here, but my search was fruitless. Does anyone have any photos of some EG side elastic styles? It would be greatly appreciated. Also, would you stick to a single leather sole, or perhaps go with something a bit chunkier (in my mind a side elastic shoe isnt terribly formal, perhaps a thicker sole would be nice). Also, I am torn between several lasts. My stowes are on the 888, which I think is just so elegant. I am leaning toward something that resembles the RLPL 89 last for these however. Would I be best served by asking for the 808 or the 606. Thank you so much in advance.

 

[AJL]

http://members.jcom.home.ne.jp/shoe.com/e-green01.htm scroll down to New Green- Top Drawer

 

[Phil]

Thanks. I love those Atlee's.

 

[Steve B.]

Love that shoe also- thinking of ordering it in olive...

 

[Phil]

olive? thats interesting, ive never thought about that color for a shoe. would you get it with an antiqued finish?

 

[Steve B.]

Yes- it's hard to describe the color, saw it at the last trunk show when I ordered my Stowes.

 

[jcusey]

I am leaning toward the "atlee", which I am under the assumption is a side elastic shoe. I remember seeing a pic of it on here, but my search was fruitless. Does anyone have any photos of some EG side elastic styles? It would be greatly appreciated. Also, would you stick to a single leather sole, or perhaps go with something a bit chunkier (in my mind a side elastic shoe isnt terribly formal, perhaps a thicker sole would be nice).

The pictures from Jun Kuwana's website are the only ones that I can find online. I think that the Atlee would be a wonderful choice. Keep in mind that there are lots of little details that you could change -- you could probably get them to use a straight cap instead of a wing cap, for instance, and you could probably get little leather strips covering the elastic gores.

I wouldn't put a double sole on it -- it's definitely a town shoe, and even though it's less formal than, say, the Chelsea, it's not a casual shoe. I think double soles would look out of place.

Also, I am torn between several lasts. My stowes are on the 888, which I think is just so elegant. I am leaning toward something that resembles the RLPL 89 last for these however. Would I be best served by asking for the 808 or the 606.

89 is very similar to 888. If you like 888 and are familiar with it, I would stick with it rather than switching to something with almost the same look that you're not familiar with. I like 808 better than 888 because it's a narrower, more elegant last. However, the EG people have found that that narrowness makes it harder to fit a lot of people. 606 wouldn't be bad, but I think that you'll get a more elegant shoe with either 888 or 808.

Another option, if you're willing to consider a round-toe last, would be the new 82, which I just learned about. The EG people say that it has the elegance of the 888, only with a round toe. Supposedly, it fits as well as the 202 but looks much better.
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[Phil]

do you have a link to the Jun Kawana's website? Is that the same site referenced above.

Jcusey, thanks for the input about changing the front. I was thinking the same thing. Ive never been a huge fan of wingtips. Perhaps a cap toe with a medallion instead.

As far as the lasts, the 888 that I got in the Stowe is significantly more square than the 89 whitakers i have. i assumed the 808 would look more like the 89, thanks for the clarification.

 

[bengal-stripe]

Edward Green has several variations of the side-elastic shoe in their program. Probably each one has a different name. I remember seeing on one of the Japanese sites the version (maybe even versions) EG has made for RLPL, which probably have different names altogether. Just contact EG and ask them to submit you designs, drawings or photographs of the side-elastic styles in their program. Alternatively, if you have it on hand, look into the Cleverley catalogue (they have loads and loads of side-elastics there). Find a style and the degree of decoration you like and then ask EG to make it up. They probably will, as all the variations use the same basic pattern. I have never seen the 89 last in real life. On pictures it looks quite round. You probably will be better off with a square last, either 606, 808 or 888. If 888 fits you well and you are happy with it, why change? The last certainly goes well with the style of shoe. "Cobbler's site" (Jun Kawana) is by far the most extensive "shoe candy" on the web. It will take quite a while to plough your way through. http://members.jcom.home.ne.jp/0376732901/

 

[T4phage]

Edward Green has several variations of the side-elastic shoe in their program. Probably each one has a different name. I remember seeing on one of the Japanese sites the version (maybe even versions) EG has made for RLPL, which probably have different names altogether.

Just contact EG and ask them to submit you designs, drawings or photographs of the side-elastic styles in their program. Alternatively, if you have it on hand, look into the Cleverley catalogue (they have loads and loads of side-elastics there). Find a style and the degree of decoration you like and then ask EG to make it up. They probably will, as all the variations use the same basic pattern.

I believe they will only do it to a certain extent. I recently inquired the same question but was told that it was not possible. The reason was that they would have to do trial patterns and the cost would be the same as the price of the shoe itself. The only way to get it would be through bespoke.

 

[T4phage]

Originally posted by Phil:

...in my mind a side elastic shoe isnt terribly formal, perhaps a thicker sole would be nice)

Oh Phil but it is.... I have several from Cleverley, mainly variants of the plain apron front (machine stitched apron). They are at least as elegant and formal as any shoe.

 

[offshore observer]

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[Phil]

what leads me to believe the side elastic shoe is less formal than a pair of lace-ups are a few things:

1. the heavy broughing often seen on them
2. the side elastics signify to me, at least, a lesser form of elegance (thats just in my mind though). Kind of like how monk straps are considered less formal than balmoral lace ups.

I love the way they look though, I am definetely gonna get some form of EG elastic side shoe next. The RL store in NYC has a cool pair of elastic side shoes, in black. In my memory, they have no broghing at all, very sleek, tight sole.

 

[T4phage]

Originally posted by Offshore-Observer:

Wish me luck. I shall brace myself for another visit to Edward Green this weekend, (hopefully) to pick up an order and to order a pair of Atlees made up to my specs. Bracing myself for the usual friendly reception - last time I was there the kindly Mr. Fox said he noticed me slinking into J M Weston . That was somewhat hard to explain.

This is why I do my shoe buying in different countries....

 

[T4phage]

Admittedly not great pictures, but these two are wonderful and no slouch in the "formality" department. In real life, the chisel toe and curvature of the shoe is incredible - but then again they are bespoke.