Edward green lasts for boots, need suggestions

[Phil]

I am going to order a pair of special order Edward Green boots, probably a pair of Banbury's. I have a pair in the 505 last, which I like perfectly fine, but I was wondering if there are any other lasts that Green has that might be appropriate for boots. I like the added depth of the 505, but would like more of a square toe. I own a pair of Olney's that have the 606 last, and a double leather sole, and I love those, but am looking for more depth. Thanks.

 

[jcusey]

Well, the square-toe lasts that I know of are 606, 808, 888, and 89. You said that you'd like more depth than 606 has, so that would rule out the 808 as well. 888 and 89 both have a bit more depth, but you might be looking for more than either one has. I'd send e-mail to Edward Green and ask their opinion. They've been very responsive to me in the past. What leather are you thinking of? I just got a pair of double-sole Olneys on 606 in dark oak antique that I have high hopes for. Now I'm just waiting for UPS

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[Phil]

i picked up a pair of the same Olney's from Saks in Manhattan earlier this year. They are dark oak antique, they are perfect. They are 606 last, with a double leather sole. In fact, I am wearing them today. As for this new pair, there is quite a story behind it. I had ordered a pair of halifax's from Richards of Greenwich, for $695.00. I got them a few weeks ago and they seemed perfect. I wore them once and noticed that the leather on the sides of the right shoe started to separate from the lining, if that makes any sense. I ordered them in walnut country calf. Im not sure if separated is the right word, but with that leather the outer layer seemed to come apart from the lining part. Like there was space between the two layers. I brought them back to Arlyne at Richard's, who agreed with my assessment, and we sent them back to Edward Green. They also agreed, and said they would remake them, but instead of charging Richards, and thus me, $695.00, the cost is $1250.00. Apparently they made a mistake in pricing them the first time. Arylene, being a very nice lady, fought with them and they will remake a pair, in any style for $695.00. I was thinking of going with something other than the Halifax, maybe a pair of banbury's or Warwick's. I was leaning toward the burnt pine antique or acorn antique, im not sure yet. Id like to be able to wear them in more casual settings, as well as with suits. Therefore, I was thinking a double leather sole, with a fudge welt. However, I own a pair in the 505 last, and want something with more of a square toe. I am leaning toward the 606 last, with a double leather sole, and a fudge welt, in acorn antique (either the warwick or the banbury). On a side note, do you know of any unusual boot styles Green offers that arent in their catalogue, that I can see photos of?

 

[Phil]

I forgot to add, I was thinking about adding a toe medallion on the boots I order, but I have a question about that. Forgive me if this sounds a bit stupid, but can you get a toe medallion put on without also having a cap toe. I assume you have to have that extra layer of leather in order to punch through it in order to have the medallion? Am I incorrect? Also, do I just ask them for a toe medallion, or do I have to refer to one style of medallion specifically?

 

[TimelessRider]

Phil, Sorry to hear about your Halifax, but I'm glad to know that Richard's is standing behind their original price. I can't offer advice on a squarer toed last or medallion, but I second jcusey's recommendation about emailing EG. They are extremely responsive. You can find an email address here: http://www.edwardgreen.com/shops/details.htm

 

[bengal-stripe]

I don't quite understand the problem you had with your "Halifax" boots, after all the outer leather and the lining are two separate layers, and they should not be glued together (some cheap shoes do that, to give a flimsy leather more body), but maybe there was excessive fullness. Whatever, EG agreed that it was a production fault and then they should replace it, whether or not the previously charged price was correct. I have never tried on the last 505, so I can't comment. I have EG shoes in lasts 202, 606, 808 and (an older pair) in last 33. If you prefer the chunkier 505 (is it only rounder or also higher in the toe box?) you might want to look at the model "Herrick", which A Harris posted here a couple of month ago). Although not in the current EG catalogue, I'm sure they will make up a pair: http://cobblers.hp.infoseek.co.jp/monthly01-10.htm I suppose the "Banbury" would look all right in a last 505, I'm not so sure about the "Warwick", which I think is the more elegant of the two. Technically it is no problem to add a toe medallion to any plain toe styles (whole cuts often come with a medallion). But I'm not so sure, whether it would suit the Chukka style "Banbury" or "Warwick" stylistically. EG will have several different designs of toe medallions, (I know at least four. The shoes EG makes for Asprey, even sport an ugly thing that looks like a bumblebee; well, that might be exclusive to Asprey). If you decide to go for a medallion, just ask them to fax you the possibilities on offer. I'm in the market for a new pair of boots (for the autumn/fall) and I am wondering whether I should go all butch and military with a "Herrick" (possibly on last 505) or go down the dandified road with an "Olney" (last 808 or 888).

 

[Phil]

i wish i would have taken some pics of the offending area on the halifax. maybe separation isnt the right word. Its like the outer layer is loose, and puckered away from the inner layer. it looked remarkably cheap. after some thought, i agree about the toe medallion on the banbury, might look a bit odd. i emailed Green, and wait for their response concerning the last. this is my latest inclination: warwick, last 606, double leather sole, fudge welt, in acorn antique. perhaps a single leather sole, but also with a fudge welt.

 

[bengal-stripe]

this is my latest inclination: Â warwick, last 606, double leather sole, fudge welt, in acorn antique. Â perhaps a single leather sole, but also with a fudge welt.

I think that would be a lovely pair of boots. Instead of the fudge welt you might also want to look at the notched welt, which looks absolutely stunning, ("Cumberland" bluchers in the EG catalogue). Among the shoes EG makes for Asprey, two full brogues have a double-soled notched welt, one dark brown suede, the other-one acorn leather. I just tried: http://www.asprey.com but these particular designs don't come up on the site, although two other EG models are. (How I hate those clever web designers). I believe there is a New York store open, maybe they have these designs on display

 

[Phil]

I saw that photo of the notch welt in the catalogue. Am I incorrect in assuming it is much like the italian makers (Santoni, Lattanzi) in that it is the rather large white stitching that runs along the welt? I wish there was a better photo than the one in the catalog to show a notched welt. Can you only get a notched welt from EG with a double leather sole? Also, would a single leather sole with a fudge welt look out of proportion? i ask because of the rather chunky nature of a fudge welt to begin with. They seem more in harmony with a double leather sole.

 

[TimelessRider]

EG Cumberland courtesy www.dressy.net

 

[Phil]

Ah, now i see what you mean. So its not big white stitching, ala Santoni, but rather the rubber material cut into notch shapes that run along the shoe.

 

[bengal-stripe]

The fudge welt (or storm welt) is a straight edge leather strip, which goes (maybe 2mm) up the shoe sides. The notched welt has additionally little notches cut, so the welt sticks up like baby teeth. It is not stitching and it is not a different color, it's just the little notches catching the light.

(In the Vass book (page 116) he shows a storm welt where the edge is gimped (zigzagged). It is basically that same zigzag effect, just more pronounced.

I was about to post the same picture. It's not rubber it's a continuous leather strip, just like the ordinary welt.

 

[jcusey]

i picked up a pair of the same Olney's from Saks in Manhattan earlier this year. They are dark oak antique, they are perfect. They are 606 last, with a double leather sole.

Great minds must think alike. That's the same shoe that I bought at the same place last weekend. Was Gary your salesman?

 

[jcusey]

I forgot to add, I was thinking about adding a toe medallion on the boots I order,

That could turn out to be stunning. I love this pair of Barrett boots:

I'd agree with bengal-stripe that Banbury might not be your best option if you want to go that route, though. I'd choose Orkney.

 

[Phil]

To be honest, the more I think about what pair to order, the more confused I get. I had ordered a pair of Stowes last month, that everyone here helped me choose, last, color, etc. It was great having such educated shoe minds give their suggestions to me, and I am certain they are going to be beautiful when they show up this summer. The boots though, I cant figure out. I am torn between 3 styles, and I simply cant decide:

#1- warwick, 606 last, double leather sole, fudge welt, in acorn antique.

#2 - Olney, 606 last, double leather sole, fudge welt, in acorn antique, with a toe medallion.

#3 - Halifax, either 505 0r 58 last (if anyone has any additional info on the 58 it would be greatly appreciated), Edwardian antique, medway sole, fudge welt.

I keep shuffling back and forth between the styles. It should be said that I currently own a pair of Olneys, in dark brown antique, 2 pairs of banburys (one in dark oak antique, single leather sole), and the other in chestnut antique, double dainite sole. What do you guys think, or do you have any other suggestions for a pair of boots.

as for my salesman at Saks on those Olneys, it wasnt Gary. I get my suits through the saks 5th ave. club, in the back of the 6th floor, and I work with a gentleman there who put them aside for me. He knows I have a thing for EG shoes, and boots.