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Edward green last advice

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Lynch Bages, Oct 5, 2004.

  1. Lynch Bages

    Lynch Bages Active Member

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    I recently discovered this Board while attempting to search the Internet for pictures of Edward Green shoes  (unfortunately, I have a very old EG catalog and EG is not sending out its new catalogs for another few weeks).  I am very impressed by the amount of knowledge available on this site, especially when it comes to quality RTW and bespoke shoes.

    I am considering ordering what will be my third pair of EG RTW shoes -- the Westminster in dark oak on last 606.  I have seen photos of this shoe and it looks great.  Before I place my order, however, I was wondering if anyone has any pictures of the Westminster on last 888.  My concern about 888 is that it might be too elongated a look on the Westminster (with the plain cap and the double monk-strap).  Any thoughts?
     
  2. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I've seen a picture of Westminster on 888, but it's in the oft-mentioned Japanese The World of High-End Shoes, Vol. 2 (p. 68, if you have it). I don't have a scanner, so I can't post it. To be honest, I think that Westminster would look better on a round-toe last than on a square-toe last. If it were me, I'd order it on the new 82 last.
     
  3. Lynch Bages

    Lynch Bages Active Member

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    I've never seen a shoe on the 82 and assume I will have to wait for the new catalog or for someone to post photos. It is interesting, however, that you suggest the 82 because I was recently thinking about different EG styles and whether they are better-suited to round vs. square toes.

    For example, I think the Dover is terrific on 606 and Cardiff is best on 808 or 89. Likewise, it is my opinion that Malvern would be most-stunning on a round toe last but I find the 202 too stubby.

    Do others have any opinions about the various EG styles and on which lasts they look best (I recognize that this is incredibly subjective but there must be some objective factors or analysis as it seems relatively uniform that the Dover/606 match is perfectly harmonious). Any feedback?
     
  4. norcaltransplant

    norcaltransplant Senior member

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    Funny that you mention the Malvern. I own that particular model and don't find it too stubby at all--and I wear small shoes (7.5D UK). The wingtip and brouging definitely add an elegance to the shoe not seen in slightly truncated Chelsea or Berkeley.
     
  5. Lynch Bages

    Lynch Bages Active Member

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    I actually have not seen the Malvern on the 202 other than the picture in my very old EG catalog, which is difficult to get a good sense from. For some reason, SF stores have not been stocking wingtips the past few years (and Malouf is the only store in California that I am aware of that sells EG). I had not considered that the wingtip and full brogue may indeed make the 202 more elegant than the more truncated look of the Berkley and Chelsea models on 202. That may be due to the difference in the wingtip design (making the shoe look more elongated) vs. the plain cap. Just a thought.
     
  6. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I do agree with you about the Dover, I think it looks best on the 606.
     
  7. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    I agree that the Dover looks very nice on the 606, and somewhat odd on the 888.

    I have heard various proponents/opponents regarding what last the Dover should be on. One side saying that the relatively rounded shape of the apron belongs to a last with a round toe, whilst others claim that this is not so. Thoughts?
     
  8. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Sell me a Dover/202 combo cheap enough and I'd certainly wear it, but if I was going to pay full price I'd definitely go with the 606. Just looks way better to my eye.
     
  9. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Dover is an attractive shoe on 606, but my favorite last for Dover is 808: [​IMG] I agree with both your point about the Malvern and the 202 last. 202 is less than the epitome of elegance, particularly in non-narrow widths. That's the principal reason that I'm excited about the 82 last. If it's as good as the descriptions that I've read, it should be fantastic.
     
  10. TimelessRider

    TimelessRider Senior member

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    Why so little love for the Dover on the 888 last? I think that this combination is very nice: [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  11. Lynch Bages

    Lynch Bages Active Member

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    It is a very pretty shoe, no question about it. Is that the Edwardian Antique?
     
  12. norcaltransplant

    norcaltransplant Senior member

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    No, I think its burnt pine.
     
  13. TimelessRider

    TimelessRider Senior member

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    Burnt Pine it is. Though the camera's flash makes it appear redder than it is in reaity.
     
  14. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Tony Gaziano was kind enough to send me a couple of pictures comparing the 82 last to the 202: [​IMG] [​IMG] Very attractive, if you ask me.
     
  15. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    Originally posted by Timeless Rider:
    Yes that is a very nice shoe, but for me, I don't like the juxtapostion of the rounder apron with an obviously square toe. Still, very very pretty shoe.
     
  16. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  17. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Like Manton, I was quite surprised how "banana-shaped" the new last 82 I; could it be that all preaching  by Mr Alan Flusser has had some effect?

    Those who have wondered about reference to that particular fruit; the picture demonstrate the difference quite clearly. On the 82 last the highest toe point has shifted more to the inside, thus giving the outside a greater curvature. At it's most extreme the banana last has an inner line that is dead straight while the outside curves over with great gusto.
    That last is supposed to update (and possibly replace) the last 202. It's a round-toed, not chisel-toed and is not supposed to be square. The "new" (although it's been around for 12 or 18 months) chisel-toed last is 888.
     
  18. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  19. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    In addition, that's what Alan Flusser says about lasts and some samples of his shoe range. http://www.alanflussercustom.com/customshoes.html The shoes are made by EG and I believe the last used is 72. It might be interesting to compare 72 and 82, what elements they have in common and in what respects they differ.
     
  20. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Haven't heard about this one.
    One needs a higher doctorate in EG lastology to anwer that question. I haven't come that far, but I'm working on it.
     

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