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Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Harrydog, Mar 11, 2012.
this covers it pretty much. you're a very clever man
I was trying to get that damn picture to load for like 5 minutes. But yea', save for the medallion, they look identical.
Aren't a lot of the EG lasts very similar, though? 32, 33, 82, 88?
...actually, I think the medallion on the Lichfield may be slightly different, but I can't zoom in enough on the pair I posted to be certain. It's close enough, though.
great article on the last evolution by forum member Dan - 'Uptown Dandy' http://uptowndandy.blogspot.com.au/2012/03/evolution-of-last-edward-green-from-to.html
.... and don't understand it, but on no lesser authority than an old post by Andrew Portnoy have confirmation that these are Telfords, on the 82- identical medallion to yours, and definitely not MTO
^ Brilliant! Thank you, sir - for both the link and the effort. I appreciate it. Them's some real beauties.
What does this mean?
I believe in this quote, split reverse welt and Goiserer/Bentivegna welt are muddled-up.
The conventional welt is stitched underneath the shoe. The 'split-reverse welt' is split lengthwise at half the thickness and half the width. The top section forms a lip going up the shoe and the lower section is stitched conventionally underneath (no additional and visible row of stitching). The Goiserer/Bentigegna welt is not split, but stitched to the outside of the shoe. So. there is a visible and decorative row of stitches. 'Norwegian construction' has the upper leather turned outside, taking the function of the welt.
Different shoemakers/firms have developed their own hybrid versions and might threat the visible rows of stitching in a more decorative manner. (Some of these decorative stitches were even invented to hide the fact that the functional stitches are spaced quite far apart, as big stitches speed-up the process and save time and money.)
Then there is the 'Norwegian' style of shoe, which. of course can be produced in any type of construction. Member 'dopey' owns a pair of bespoke shoes (made by Janne Melkersson) which are 'Norwegian' in style and construction. A rare beast indeed.
As you might know from Rose Nylund ('Golden Girls') things Norwegian are always complicated: "We in St. Olaf........"
well, just my own quirk, not saying anyone else feels or should feel, this .
to my eye the 202 tends to look 'vintage' in a way that say the 82 does not. I'm not keen on vintage because it looks costumey to me.
Bengal, dumb question- are you saying the leather is split to half its depth ? like from 2mm to 1mm thick?
(altho the point is, as u already said, that the SC pictured was not Goiserer) .
I was told this 2nd shoe from bott is Goiserer, and the welt leather pokeing up looks quite thick, so prob not split depth-wise....
+1. The Norwegian (sometimes called Norvegese) welt and Norwegian style shoe are not the same thing.
IMHO the most distinguishing feature of a norwegian style shoe is the split toe which is done differently by different makers.
I find it refreshing to look into the historical background of footwear. this pretty much describes my approach to my personal choices. to make your confusion complete. this model is called "Medaillon" due to the quarter seam. enjoy. in the tree workshop.
iirc, this picture belongs to harrydog. a picture is like a genetical fingerprint and this carries the handwriting of HD, imo.
A-H of course? the upper construction is almost identidcal with the Demeter-Halmos on previous page, including the back-strap and the kissing toe seam. Must be a tradition?
amazing, yes Harrydog, but quite some time ago. 4.5 yrs! that is a serious shoe-memory, esp for someone who is no EG fan. Bought at a factory sale in 2008
A traditionally handmade ‘split-reverse’ (‘stormwelt’ in English) looks something like this:
The leather strip is partially split; the lower section is stitched underneath while the upper section forms a lip
against the shoe. Unlike the Goiserer/Bentivegna, you won’t see any additional stitching on the outside of the shoe:
Guyla Kiss, one of the greatest I have ever met. certainly, I'm biased, though. I've seen the work frome some of the best in the world in flesh, so I allow myself this judgement. the back strap is tradition and I love it. not sure what you mean by the kissing toe seam?
it's the arrangement of the pic and the quality of the pic. ap never had the depth and never pictured boxes.
not a fan, oh well. i'm happy, when you guys are happy. never forget, we, who write and participate here in a disiplined manner have one in common - we love shoes and not solely ours collection.
I mean the way the lips of the leather at the split on the toe are pinched, sewn, then trimmed - as opposed to ghosted the EG way or an overlap seam as seen on the 'lake' of the Demeter-Halmos.
oka thanks- I'm surprised as I didn't think this was possible.
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