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jischwar

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I'm not even sure I know what that would mean, in practice. Are there other makers that are doing a leather toe puff? Wouldn't it be basically the same as fully unstructured? Sorry for the potentially dumb question here... 🤣
A lot of makers (think entry level GYW) use celastic for the heels and toes. The handwelted guys mostly use leather for the heels and sometimes for the toes as well (think Winson) or AM who uses some kind of glue and fiber for the toes. Viberg is another maker who has switched over to leather toe puffs.

For the heels particularly, being made of leather should allow them to conform better to the foot
 

jischwar

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Good news, EG emailed back to say my shoes have been done and instore but they didn’t have my postcode so they’ve not been sent out. I look forward to getting them soon! 😃 They are acorn Malverns, by the way.
Could have had your shoes 9 months ago 🤣🤣🤣. Glad they are done and on the way though
 

CWL317

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So you ended up spending almost 400 pound sterling (with delivery charges) to wait a year?

This is why I generally recommend finding a good cobbler and doing your work with them...
Payment is on completion so they are going to invoice me but will kindly send them at no extra charge.

it did need work that only the factory can do. The service manager there is extremely nice and very friendly and he said the repair would result in basically a pair of new shoes.

I suspect they finished the repair ages ago and sent them on to the store for dispatch; they probably didn’t know the shoes have been kept waiting in the store and I think that was where the loss of communication occurred.
 

stook1

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A lot of makers (think entry level GYW) use celastic for the heels and toes. The handwelted guys mostly use leather for the heels and sometimes for the toes as well (think Winson) or AM who uses some kind of glue and fiber for the toes. Viberg is another maker who has switched over to leather toe puffs.

For the heels particularly, being made of leather should allow them to conform better to the foot
Good to know! I certainly knew about the heel stiffeners but had no idea that makers were doing leather toe puffs. Is it a correct assumption that a leather toe puff is less structured (and very likely to collapse) vs. celastic? I'm thinking that must be the case but speaking from ignorance since i had no idea that this was done.
 

Schweino

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Good news, EG emailed back to say my shoes have been done and instore but they didn’t have my postcode so they’ve not been sent out. I look forward to getting them soon! 😃 They are acorn Malverns, by the way.
Quite odd that they didn contact you before to ask for the missing address details but instead waited for you to contact them after 11 months.
 

jischwar

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Good to know! I certainly knew about the heel stiffeners but had no idea that makers were doing leather toe puffs. Is it a correct assumption that a leather toe puff is less structured (and very likely to collapse) vs. celastic? I'm thinking that must be the case but speaking from ignorance since i had no idea that this was done.
No, I don't believe that's the case. I guess it could more easily get dented. But the highest end makers are using all leather components based on my limited knowledge
 

CWL317

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Glad to hear that there is a happy conclusion here... I truly didn't mean to scare you but the "lost in the factory" outcome isn't at all far fetched given what I've seen from another maker (who I will not mention, hahah). In the future, I definitely suggest keeping closer tabs on such things.

Enjoy your shoes!
I dealt directly with the factory service manager for the repair, so it could be that the store didn’t know what to do with the shoes because I didn’t get them done via the store. I suspect the shoes were done and forwarded ages ago.

I have to say the service manager and the admin at the factory are extremely friendly and very helpful and down to earth, not at all snooty like you sometimes find at the retail end with salespeople in high end stores. I am very grateful to the EG factory folk for their help and look forward to getting the shoes sent back to me from the store.

I will post a picture once I receive them. They are Malvern in acorn. I have another pair of Malvern in edwardian.
 
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CWL317

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Quite odd that they didn contact you before to ask for the missing address details but instead waited for you to contact them after 11 months.
Yes - very odd. But it could be because I didn’t go through the store for the repair - I dealt directly with the factory. The factory folk are extremely friendly and helpful. I suspect they completed the repair and forwarded it on to the store ages ago and they probably didn’t know I hadn’t got them back.
 

JustPullHarder

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No, I don't believe that's the case. I guess it could more easily get dented. But the highest end makers are using all leather components based on my limited knowledge
I think even Fukuda uses synthetic for toe puffs. I don't think it matters functionally but in terms of artistry it would be preferred.

Maybe it's a split toe thing?
 

CWL317

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Well that was quick! My acorn Malverns are on their way via DHL Express 😃
 

CWL317

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I got a nice reply from the factory who are so friendly. They actually completed the repair on the shoes and forwarded it to the store in March for return to me, and were alarmed to hear that I had not got them back. They spoke with the store as to why I was not contacted, and apparently the store said it was due to a mix up and apologized.

Anyway I can’t fault the factory, the folks there are great people and it wasn’t their fault, apparently it was the London store that dropped the ball.

Well I should have them back soon and will share pictures. I’m sure the factory will have done a wonderful job, the service manager had told me it will essentially be like brand new shoes, as the work involved replacing one of the wing caps and re-welting.

The only thing I am worried about is what has the store been doing with my shoes all this time. I hope it was just in storage on a shelf and that they didn’t use my shoes as a display model for walk-in customers to try on or something. I will be able to tell if there are signs of wear as the shoes were unworn, but the leather got marked on one of them so that was why it was in for repair restoration to like new again.
 
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Jmr928

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Good to know! I certainly knew about the heel stiffeners but had no idea that makers were doing leather toe puffs. Is it a correct assumption that a leather toe puff is less structured (and very likely to collapse) vs. celastic? I'm thinking that must be the case but speaking from ignorance since i had no idea that this was done.
My understanding is the opposite. That leather is actually more durable and can be popped back out if you dent it. If celastic or leather board crack or dent they’re done.

It’s usually an insole leather that is skived down very finely and paste is added - you’ll end up with it blending into the shoe better where with the celastic puff you can often see the line where the puff or heel stiffener starts and stops.
5D50CDAB-D441-4980-94F3-6C81B06B824E.jpeg

photo from Toshihide Takai

I think even Fukuda uses synthetic for toe puffs. I don't think it matters functionally but in terms of artistry it would be preferred.

Maybe it's a split toe thing?
Yes - uses celastic puffs on RTW yes. Fukuda has very good leathers, great attention to detail and beautiful lasts but the making is not too different process-wise from most of the other RTW HW guys. Machine stitched sole, celastic toe puffs.
 

jischwar

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My understanding is the opposite. That leather is actually more durable and can be popped back out if you dent it. If celastic or leather board crack or dent they’re done.

It’s usually an insole leather that is skived down very finely and paste is added - you’ll end up with it blending into the shoe better where with the celastic puff you can often see the line where the puff or heel stiffener starts and stops.
View attachment 1692962
photo from Toshihide Takai


Yes - uses celastic puffs on RTW yes. Fukuda has very good leathers, great attention to detail and beautiful lasts but the making is not too different process-wise from most of the other RTW HW guys. Machine stitched sole, celastic toe puffs.
More eloquently put, thanks @Jmr928
 

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