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sforum1

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I think its more likely midnight antique, with light antique edgetrim.

Could be, I can't tell the difference between all those colors. I used to have a pair like that (but mine was officially cloud antique) and ended up changing them to black. I found that I could not wear them with anything.
 

Professor Χάος

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Could be, I can't tell the difference between all those colors. I used to have a pair like that (but mine was officially cloud antique) and ended up changing them to black. I found that I could not wear them with anything.
Black is of course the most versatile color by far. But after you've bought several black shoes, different shades of brown shoes and a few burgundy shoes, what do you do for variety? I would like to buy some navy shoes; especially G&G St James II in dark navy blue, or perhaps Vass F last in blue museum calf.
 

George Red

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I have a question for all you EG/JL experts. I noticed that many of you buy captoes, loafers and standard oxfords; and while EG/JL are among the best RTW shoes in the world, its hard for average people to distinguish between EG/JL captoes, loafers and $100 Florsheim.

I understand that you don't buy shoes to impress people on the street, and that we appreciate EG/JL for their excellence, but shouldn't we buy footwear that can be distinguished from average shoes? When I spend $800 for a pair of shoes, I want them to stand out to some extent.

I mean no disrespect to anyone. I'm just curious what all of you think about this subject.
I don’t think your question is disrespectful at all. It’s candid and fair. Here’s my answer:

1) EG, JL, and especially STC absolutely feel much better when worn than your run of the mill shit captoe oxford. The fit is superior and they stay that way forever.

2) Any EG, JL, or STC looks much better than your run of the mill shit captoe oxford, even to the layman. I mean, just look at this, for fuck’s sake:
C06A5752-1330-4208-89F7-EB1C21DE4499.jpeg
D4EB9540-948E-4615-8A67-152063B45DE4.jpeg
F5AF4299-09EA-4886-979D-7DC00D02EE28.jpeg
49C90012-B5F5-45D1-BC94-CF387866B4D3.jpeg
 

Professor Χάος

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I don’t think your question is disrespectful at all. It’s candid and fair. Here’s my answer:

1) EG, JL, and especially STC absolutely feel much better when worn than your run of the mill shit captoe oxford. The fit is superior and they stay that way forever.

2) Any EG, JL, or STC looks much better than your run of the mill shit captoe oxford, even to the layman. I mean, just look at this, for fuck’s sake:
View attachment 1506484View attachment 1506485View attachment 1506486View attachment 1506487
Beautiful. STC = St Crispin? sigh...maybe one day....

I've worn 2nd tier or even 3rd tier shoes in the past.....Moreschi...which were comfortable, sometimes elegant...but fell apart after a year or two....probably Blake Stitched....I bought a pair of SM cap toes but they also began to lose their patina after a year of continuous wear. I was disappointed.

But since graduating from SF university and benefiting from the experience of its members for the last 7 years (prior to becoming a member) I've built a nice collection of JL, EG, Norwegian-welted SMs, Vass, Hand welted Enzo Bonafe, and similar quality shoes. My shoe education is entirely derived from reading the debates and discussions on SF and AAAC. So....thanks for the education.

One day I may venture into St Crispin territory.....
 
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sforum1

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I don’t think your question is disrespectful at all. It’s candid and fair. Here’s my answer:

1) EG, JL, and especially STC absolutely feel much better when worn than your run of the mill shit captoe oxford. The fit is superior and they stay that way forever.

2) Any EG, JL, or STC looks much better than your run of the mill shit captoe oxford, even to the layman. I mean, just look at this, for fuck’s sake:
View attachment 1506484View attachment 1506485View attachment 1506486View attachment 1506487
Given the discussion that went on the other day re StC aniline Vs crust, what are this black pair? This is hot stuff.
 

TokenMao

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I have a question for all you EG/JL experts. I noticed that many of you buy captoes, loafers and standard oxfords; and while EG/JL are among the best RTW shoes in the world, its hard for average people to distinguish between EG/JL captoes, loafers and $100 Florsheim.

I understand that you don't buy shoes to impress people on the street, and that we appreciate EG/JL for their excellence, but shouldn't we buy footwear that can be distinguished from average shoes? When I spend $800 for a pair of shoes, I want them to stand out to some extent.

I mean no disrespect to anyone. I'm just curious what all of you think about this subject.
I think the "simpler" looking styles like a captoe oxford or a penny loafer is where the quality of the maker stands out more because there's less to distract from the finishing, leather, last, how the waist sits, etc. For example, AE park aves I can recognize right away because the 65 last is a shapeless blob and the cap toe is way too short (sorry AE fans), so when you put AE next to any of the higher end makers, or even against a mid-tier like Carmina you can really tell the difference.
 

Professor Χάος

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I think the "simpler" looking styles like a captoe oxford or a penny loafer is where the quality of the maker stands out more because there's less to distract from the finishing, leather, last, how the waist sits, etc. For example, AE park aves I can recognize right away because the 65 last is a shapeless blob and the cap toe is way too short (sorry AE fans), so when you put AE next to any of the higher end makers, or even against a mid-tier like Carmina you can really tell the difference.
I own two pairs of Carminas; a Burgundy Adelaide and a Black Rain last wholecut. Both are quite nice and were acquired at a discount. I've never been interested in AE, so I can't really compare them, but from what I've seen they are not very attractive.

However, can't shoes be both aesthetically distinct and obviously high quality? G&G MH71 or TG73 Captoes come to mind. I also think Vass stand out. I showed many tier-1 shoes to a friend of mine who thinks Skechers are nice shoes, and he couldn't tell the difference between high end brands and cheap shoes, but when I showed him Vass, he acknowledged them to be particularly beautiful. For the record, the difference between EG 202 plain captoes and cheap shoes is obvious to me (although I find 202s to be one of EGs least appealing lasts), but I tend to notice all the details that make any EG superior to most shoes on the market.

Also for the record, while I appreciate the 3 pairs of JL that I own, I have to agree with most SF members that EGs seem superior in construction and overall quality. JLs tend to be more flashy, and obviously well built, which is why I like them, but EGs have an edge in terms of construction.
 

Encore

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Can you elaborate on why EG is superior to JL in terms of construction?
I own two pairs of Carminas; a Burgundy Adelaide and a Black Rain last wholecut. Both are quite nice and were acquired at a discount. I've never been interested in AE, so I can't really compare them, but from what I've seen they are not very attractive.

However, can't shoes be both aesthetically distinct and obviously high quality? G&G MH71 or TG73 Captoes come to mind. I also think Vass stand out. I showed many tier-1 shoes to a friend of mine who thinks Skechers are nice shoes, and he couldn't tell the difference between high end brands and cheap shoes, but when I showed him Vass, he acknowledged them to be particularly beautiful. For the record, the difference between EG 202 plain captoes and cheap shoes is obvious to me (although I find 202s to be one of EGs least appealing lasts), but I tend to notice all the details that make any EG superior to most shoes on the market.

Also for the record, while I appreciate the 3 pairs of JL that I own, I have to agree with most SF members that EGs seem superior in construction and overall quality. JLs tend to be more flashy, and obviously well built, which is why I like them, but EGs have an edge in terms of construction.
 

TokenMao

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I own two pairs of Carminas; a Burgundy Adelaide and a Black Rain last wholecut. Both are quite nice and were acquired at a discount. I've never been interested in AE, so I can't really compare them, but from what I've seen they are not very attractive.

However, can't shoes be both aesthetically distinct and obviously high quality? G&G MH71 or TG73 Captoes come to mind. I also think Vass stand out. I showed many tier-1 shoes to a friend of mine who thinks Skechers are nice shoes, and he couldn't tell the difference between high end brands and cheap shoes, but when I showed him Vass, he acknowledged them to be particularly beautiful. For the record, the difference between EG 202 plain captoes and cheap shoes is obvious to me (although I find 202s to be one of EGs least appealing lasts), but I tend to notice all the details that make any EG superior to most shoes on the market.

Also for the record, while I appreciate the 3 pairs of JL that I own, I have to agree with most SF members that EGs seem superior in construction and overall quality. JLs tend to be more flashy, and obviously well built, which is why I like them, but EGs have an edge in terms of construction.
Yeah I think we're saying the same thing, you can buy high quality shoes that have very unique designs but I think a lot of people are happy buying the simpler styles because the quality still comes through in an obvious way. Also maybe there is a meaningful difference between JL and EG but having handled and worn a number from both makers I haven't found one, to me they're more different stylistically.
 

Professor Χάος

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Can you elaborate on why EG is superior to JL in terms of construction?
Ok, but I'm definitely no expert. EGs seem to be more sturdy in their construction. Perhaps its an unfair comparison, because my EGs are double soled, while I haven't seen JLs that are similar. I am not comparing EG to JL St James St, but rather to Hermes. Also, the leather on my JLs seems thinner and more delicate in comparison to EG leather, which is not necessarily a matter of leather quality, but rather the artisan's approach to shoe construction.

I took some of my JLs and EGs to a friend who works in an upper scale clothing store and he examined them and put them on the table, and tested them for balance. The EGs laid flat, while the JLs wobbled a little. Again, I am no expert, but the EGs seemed to be more stable in their center of gravity.

Both shoes are comfortable and obviously high quality. In terms of style, JLs are more fashion-forward, which is appealing to me, while EG is more traditional and focuses on presenting beautiful patinas.
 

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