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Edward Green 802 Last (new?)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Gatsby, Apr 9, 2005.

  1. Gatsby

    Gatsby Senior member

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    Went shopping today.. shoe salesman had on a pair of EGs on the new 802 last (or so he said). I am no expert in EGs, but the 802 isn't listed in my EG catalog (which I received around Dec.), so they are probably new as he said. The shoes looked a lot like the 82 only slightly 'sharper' (more angled?) though the nose wasn't elongated. I am personally still a big fan of chisel toes (888s) but I have to admit the 802 is winning me over to the rounder side of things. I've noticed that Japan seems to get a lot of the new lasts rather early (like C&J 338s). On a slightly different topic, they're having a sale on EGs in Japan (EGs are almost NEVER on sale) at Seibu dept. stores . So at 30% off a pair of Dark Oak Berkeleys (202 last) are around $750 US. Which though is 'dirt cheap' in Japan, seems like slightly less than retail in other countries. I'm in the market for a pair of classic brown oxfords and Berkeleys fit the bill perfectly. They actually make my feet look 'wider' than I'd like and they're a little bit roomy (because it's a 202?).. but by God they're Greens. I know that EG is supposed to have their bi-annual sale in July which even including shipping, should be cheaper. Sale is over soon though so I gotta decide fast... Any advice? [​IMG]
     
  2. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Senior member

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    EGs are around $850 in the U.S., if that helps. With the sale direct from Edward Green, you still have to pay shipping, shoe trees are quite a lot extra, and you end up paying in the $600s anyway. I'd say you're probably looking at a pretty good deal. Good luck.
     
  3. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Interesting. I thought the 82 was Tony's effort to "sharpen up" the 202. So is the 802 an even leaner 82? Perhaps it's just for the Japanese market; smaller, narrower feet and all that. Just a guess.
     
  4. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    But Japanese feet aren't typically narrower. Supposedly, they're typically wider than American feet.
     
  5. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    OK, so it was a bad, uninformed guess ...
     
  6. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Manton, you ignorant slut.
     
  7. Gatsby

    Gatsby Senior member

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    No idea. The 802 didn't seem as long as an 82 or 888. Japanese shoe fans seem to prefer narrower styles, hence the D width is hugely popular. I don't think Men's Isetan (the boutique of choice for clothes horses) even stock EGs (nor C&J) in E width.
     
  8. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    And the new Vass Japanese last. If the pictures in Men's Ex The World of High-End Shoes, vols. 1 and 2 are any indication, the Japanese sees a lot of new and interesting things a lot earlier than we do in the US. Some of these are very, very good, and some are unspeakable; but they're always very interesting.
     
  9. Alter

    Alter Senior member

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    Not sure about that; but I know that the C&J shoes sold at United Arrows (a major fashion retailer in Japan) are D width even though the same models sold via C&J in the UK are usually in E.
     
  10. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It's entirely possible that I'm mistaken. I'm relying on Flusser here, not on any personal studies into the relative width of Japanese vs. American feet.
     
  11. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I was speaking to Tony Gaziano a few weeks back and he mentioned that Japanese feet, although wide, were relative fatty (as opposed to bony). To make bespoke shoes for Japanese customers, he would always go a bit narrower than the actual measurements indicated.

    If Japanese stores stock primarily D fittings, that might also be a matter of vanity and the desirability of an elongated foot. If you go up ½ size in length, you can go down a width or two.
     
  12. Alter

    Alter Senior member

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    That is plausable. Shoes made by Regal (one of the large Japanese manufacturers) are available in wider sizes. It just seems to be the imported shoes that are thinner. It may be that the market for EG and C&J prefer the more elongated look.
     
  13. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    But Japanese feet aren't typically narrower. Supposedly, they're typically wider than American feet.
    Not sure about that; but I know that the C&J shoes sold at United Arrows (a major fashion retailer in Japan) are D width even though the same models sold via C&J in the UK are usually in E.
    But a US "D" is more or less a UK "E". How do US and Japanese sizes translate?
     
  14. Alter

    Alter Senior member

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    The shoes I saw had the original UK sizes.

    The actual Japanese shoe sizing uses centimeters; so a US 10 is around a 27 in Japan. The width grading also uses an alphabetical system but I am not sure if it relates to the US or UK widths. Anyone?
     
  15. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Senior member

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    Oh, no. Another candidate for short sleeved dress shirts. You must have nice elbows ...
     
  16. Gatsby

    Gatsby Senior member

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    From my experience the sizes stocked are always UK. This has been true for Isetan, Seibu, United Arrows, Ships, and Edifice. Strangely enough Aldens seem to be offered in UK sizes. Then again I guess it's less surprising when a lot of Japanese retailers order shoes specially made from Alden, so often you'll see shoes with "Alden for Ships" or "Alden for United Arrows" printed inside. A salesman at Ships told me that they are made narrower.

    I have a pair of limited edition Ships/Begin designed C&J handgrades and those were in UK sizes (only in D width by the way).
     
  17. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    Last 338? Is that a new last for the Handgrade collection? How does it compare to the 337?
     
  18. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It is possible that there are even two new lasts for C&J Handgrades. I was reading (can't remember where) about a new last which was similar to the 337 but a tad more rounded (or almond toed); probably the same relationship as EG's 82 to 888. On the website of C&J France http://www.crockettandjones.fr/ they talk about a new last 348 which is even longer and chisel toed:
    So there might be two lasts, one more rounded (338) and the other one even more elongated (348). Better check with C&J France.
     
  19. Gatsby

    Gatsby Senior member

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    The 338 I saw was exactly as described as bengal-stripe above (like 337 w/ round toe). I think I saw this on a Belgrave so I'm assuming it will only be used for Handgrade models. I personally prefer the 337 but I can understand the desire to diversify toe styles - the more choice the better. I haven't seen the 348 but it sounds delicious.
     
  20. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    There are a number of shoes on the French C&J website that don't have the last number listed, and they look like they could have been made on these new lasts. Take a look here.
     

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