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Eat. Bespoke. Love (my Italian trip report)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by WeakMonday, Jan 28, 2015.

  1. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Distinguished Member

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    Fair enough, but he did say he was interested in trying various tailors who put their own personality into garments. From my perspective I see some flaw in this logic. I feel like he has already done the ground work in establishing a relationship with a tailor. I would do further diligence in refining the pattern in order to have some consistency within a garment. I feel like he could be taking a gamble by flying back out to Italy to work with another tailor, they may not be simpatico.

    If it were me and I was trying different tailors I would sample something from one extreme to the other to have a better understanding.
     


  2. Claghorn

    Claghorn Stylish Dinosaur Dubiously Honored

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    It's going to take you so long to get 11 suits from all those different tailors.

    :foo:
     
    Last edited: Jun 4, 2015


  3. bdavro23

    bdavro23 Distinguished Member

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    ISWYDT...
     


  4. WeakMonday

    WeakMonday Senior Member

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    I am working on a new book... "It Took 11 Tailors"... two better than that other dude. Taking preorders now for signed first edition copies.
     


  5. jedwards

    jedwards Senior Member

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    Not really, but yes, if you want to read what I said as an absolute literal comment.

    The point I was trying to imply was that, with the right polite request, any of those well renowned Naples tailors weak Monday is working with would probably be able to adjust towards his percieved 'variant'. Now obviously Panico is never gonna be a Huntman, but I see no reason a Pirozzi or Volpe would refuse to ape a Panico style (assuming you didn't try to wound his pride in your approach to the request).

    I don't get the 'collector's mentality' though, wanting to collect as many different Neoplaton tailors as possible. (Or structured Savile row or whatever) There's nothing wrong with this of course and its of the same ilk as several well known tailoring discussion websites who are clearly of the 'collector' mentality which indeed a lot of men have. 'Rare/expensive item' box ticked, onto the next find.

    Now this is quite different from the guy who loves the Hunstman aesthetic as much as the soft shoulder aesthetic from Naples - you of course would have to have both in your rosta if you loved both styles. I really do not see such marked differences between the Neopolitan tailors though *in so much as that * you can't get them to tweak things a bit differently on your next commission. So all things being equal, assuming cost and finishing is as good amongst these Naples sartoria, then why put yourself through so much fittings, each time starting from scratch and needing to travel from the states?

    It's just a horses for courses thing really, I have said many a time if you're into bespoke you need probably need about 3 tailors on rosta, but that for me is about expediency, back up plans and then variance of style (Hunstman to Panico let's say).

    It's the Panico + Pirozzi + Volpe + Rubinacci + Formosa etc approach that some on here advocate which I don't get, but we are all here to share our perspectives.
    Now if he were travelling up to Florence for a Liverano on the next trip, I would get that a lot more.
     
    Last edited: Jun 4, 2015


  6. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Distinguished Member

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    We should run StyFo like a corporation. All purchases requests have to be submitted to the committee for approval.
     


  7. mcnuonuo

    mcnuonuo Well-Known Member

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    Unless you like baggy pants and waistlines like that, the suit doesn't fit.
    The pants are cut too big and had too much room. They will just fly when you walk. They are too long too, to my idea.
    As the jacket, I wound't be able to stand a waist size like that on me.

    It looks like what NBA players wear in the 90s.
     


  8. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Distinguished Member

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    I can't believe they let him walk out of the store like that -- with a piece of paper sewn on the back of the trousers. What a weird detail!
     


  9. spectre

    spectre Distinguished Member

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    This guy posted pictures presumably for people to comment. Sarto's odd but I believe sincere way of commenting should not incur intimidatory messages from admins that they are monitoring the thread. As has happened in the past, they are buckling to the majority. Incidently, can someone tell me why admins are exempt from blocked members lists?

    Weakmonday has every right to have the suit fitted the way he prefers, but speaking only for myself, the double breasted one looks bad. The sleeves appear too wide and a little long, the waist has too much material and the pants are way too long, starting to pool.

    The blue suit looks much better.

    I find Sarto a little colourful and extreme but beneath it all tend to agree with much of what he says.

    Like me, as Diavolo, he expresses himself in a manner too forthright for our tamer admins. Diavolo had a lot of support but he was banned because he fought with those who the controllers here feared most.

    You can ban me now too, if all this is too much for you to handle.

    FYI Australians like to express themselves in a straightforward manner. We are known for a no bullshit approach. Toughen up a bit will you and listen to what Sarto says without being blinded by the hyperbole. It is his style. Diavolo was probably worse, and proved too much for this place to cope with.
     
    Last edited: Jun 4, 2015


  10. SartodiNapoli

    SartodiNapoli Distinguished Member

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    It was about for some to realice i only defend clients from getting their money wasted or gone to the wrong pockets, most of the time to bloggers who get bribed to promote those who pay them, tons of examples have been expossed. Thanks and cheers.
     


  11. chobochobo

    chobochobo Rubber Chicken Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    Ah, browsing this thread reminded me that I forgot to go to Il Vecchio Draperie (however it's spelt) whilst I was in Italy recently :(

    I'm one of those who thinks the Pirozzi DB fits a bit too loose, the jacket gives an overcoat vibe.
     


  12. Stugotes

    Stugotes Senior Member

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    Is that so? I found most Australians to be quite friendly.
     


  13. spectre

    spectre Distinguished Member

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    I'm not sure how the two are mutually incompatible.
     


  14. add911_11

    add911_11 Distinguished Member

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    Seriously, I don't think the DB solaro suit is unacceptable by all means.

    Firstly OP does not have a good chest and slim waist to start with.

    Secondly, I can't think a loose cut equals to poor fit.

    Thirdly, Tbh the blue jacket fitting doesn't really look that significantly better. Slimmer sleeves are by no conclusive better fit.
     


  15. WeakMonday

    WeakMonday Senior Member

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