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Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by WeakMonday, Jan 28, 2015.
excited to see the finished product
Great write up WeakMonday!
I hope I will have a similar chance for myself in the future.
Thanks! I will be writing up about a few more new tailors I visit in June as well... so you will have even more information for your own trip
If you have found an Italian tailor (lazy generalisation, but let's just read that as 'soft tailoring' for ease) whose given you a good result.... What is the reason to try new Italian tailors on a further trip?
Otherwise all the pattern and many fittings are in vain surely.
I could understand if you said you were now about to try huntsman let's say.
None of my business of course, just curious.
To me each tailor makes suits with their own unique personality. For example Pirozzi made me a leaner double breasted suit that I thought was fantastic while Volpe made me a fuller suit (still well shaped) that I also love. Both are "Neapolitan tailors" and yet they made me suits that were different but awesome.
I learned a lot from the way the made their suit for me in terms of what I'm looking for in a suit. I really like the button spacing and positioning of the double breasted jacket that Pirozzi made and I also really liked the 3 roll 2.5 jacket that Volpe made (as opposed to the 3 roll 2 that is popular right now). So for now I would like to try a few more tailors (in my future visits to Italy).
Of course that's not to say that I won't be going back to the tailors that I have previously tried. This time around I'm having Pirozzi make me another double breasted suit. I'm also trying another tailor to see what kind of personality he gives his suits (he's a much younger guy). And the third tailor will be making a suit for my friend who is coming with me to Italy this time (I actually recommended either Volpe or Pirozzi to him but they were out of his price range). I figured I could at least post some pictures of his results too. Hope that clears things up a bit.
Looks like a giant headache waiting to happen.
Yeah, I get that you like different styles within the spectrum of "Neapolitan" tailoring, but do you realise that any of these tailors worth their salt (and you have listed some good ones) will be able to accommodate minor adjustments to their bloc for you?
"Hey would you mind making the button closure a little wider / stance lower?" Etc etc
All you need are some good photos to take with you, or even just a walk around their studio and see what other customers are getting made.
I think it's cool to try different styles and I do too, but I just think constantly getting new patterns cut up sounds very laborious and time consuming when you could easily get one of those Neopolitan tailors to tweak to your desired effect.
You'd also get your new commissions a lot quicker as they already have a good understanding of your body type. I think the only reason I'd do what you're about to do (within the spectrum of Naples tailors) would be let's say if another was a hell of a lot cheaper. But pricing seems to be pretty standard around Naples for the well known tailors (well known outside the city at least) as far as I can tell, but if someone knows an amazing Neopolitan tailor where I can get a fully bespoke suit for sub-$1500 then do not hesitate to let me know!
Anyway just my thoughts, no hate, and I will enjoy seeing the pictures either way.
Yea it's going to be a process for sure.... But it has been fun so far so I will see where it goes. For what it's worth... Both of the tailors I'm checking out would technically be sub $1500 CMT at current exchange rates (if u could actually get banks to convert at the rate (1.12) for u) ... If the euro reaches parity later this year then u would be set haha
enjoy your trips, as i said, i will enjoy seeing the results!
Have you ever considered trying out Field Tailor's in DC?
Nope. Based on the few pictures I've seen... they aren't really to my taste.
Pictures can be misleading sometimes. Some of the items he has done for me look nothing like the pictures floating around the net. What do you look for in a suit when choosing a tailor?
Kind of an oversimplification of what goes into a suit, don't you think?
Since he went to Naples, probably not an "English custom tailor".
For me the most important is the silhouette and the way the sleeves fall and move. This is pretty easy to tell from pictures. It seems like British style suits require a certain arm pose in order for the sleeves to hang cleanly. The Neapolitan spalla camicia has a tremendous advantage here imo as they create both a nice rounded shoulder silhouette and the silhouette is still somewhat maintained in a broader range of arm motion.
Some other things that are harder to notice in terms of pictures is just the way the suit feels. Like my suits from WW Chan Shanghai (which I equate to a more British type suit) feel much heavier on my shoulders than my Neapolitan suits. With the cost of British suits where they are... it just doesn't seem worth the risk to try them out at this point.
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