East Sicily Tailors

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by UrbanComposition, May 27, 2016.

  1. UrbanComposition

    UrbanComposition Senior member

    Messages:
    3,289
    Likes Received:
    5,568
    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2010
    Location:
    San Francisco
    It warmed up this weekend so no flannel. I did wear the fresco jacket though. Here's a few pics. I know the quality of them isn't the best but it'll give you an idea of the lines and structure of the jacket.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     


  2. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

    Messages:
    4,085
    Likes Received:
    762
    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2005
    The coat has quite a bit of drape. It's closer to what I get from Steed vs NSM or Formosa.
     


  3. UrbanComposition

    UrbanComposition Senior member

    Messages:
    3,289
    Likes Received:
    5,568
    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2010
    Location:
    San Francisco
    Now that you mention it, my NSM jackets are cut a little leaner in the chest.
     


  4. bry2000

    bry2000 Senior member

    Messages:
    2,203
    Likes Received:
    528
    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2004
    That's a lot of drape. Perhaps even more than old school A&S.

    Urban Comp, have you ever tried a jacket with a more structured shoulder? That might be a good look for your build.
     


  5. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

    Messages:
    2,629
    Likes Received:
    1,331
    Joined:
    May 30, 2009
    

    is this considered 3r2.5 or a 3 button?
     


  6. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

    Messages:
    7,985
    Likes Received:
    12,965
    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2011
    That does seem like a lot of drape.

    Cut looks a lot curvier than Steed or Paone, who have a more X-shaped opening.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    Maybe a little more like Liverano in that regard, although the overall silhouette doesn't seem as rounded. Not sure what it is. I'd be curious to see what the coat looks like with the lapels re-pressed to a true 3r2.

    UC, if you're daring, you could do this at home with a hot iron (and a bit of care). Although, it might also just naturally relax to a 3r2 over time.
     
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2016


  7. UrbanComposition

    UrbanComposition Senior member

    Messages:
    3,289
    Likes Received:
    5,568
    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2010
    Location:
    San Francisco
    The button stance is my fault; I asked for a three button jacket but didn't specifically clarify I wanted it to roll to the second button, which they call "tre bottoni finto" (at least in that part of Sicily). He pressed it a bit to roll to a 2.5, and I'm happy with it. Anyway, it's a good excuse to get another jacket.

    I'm ambivalent towards a more structured shoulder; it has its place. The DB has a slight rollino at the shoulder which looks quite nice. If anything I'd ask for a more extended shoulder, about 1cm.
     


  8. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

    Messages:
    2,629
    Likes Received:
    1,331
    Joined:
    May 30, 2009
    

    This is not a typical of steed's house style.


    I like the styling of the 3 r 2.5. Please buy more!
     


  9. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

    Messages:
    7,985
    Likes Received:
    12,965
    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2011
    

    You mean the x-shaped front? That's not been my experience. IMO this is pretty representative of what I've seen from them (slightly more open quarters here, but the x-shape pretty much the same)

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2016


  10. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

    Messages:
    2,629
    Likes Received:
    1,331
    Joined:
    May 30, 2009
    

    Sorry, I meant the chest and skirt of vox's jacket. The picture you just posted with the chest drape is very similar to the sicilian jacket.
     


  11. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

    Messages:
    7,985
    Likes Received:
    12,965
    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2011
    

    I think we might be talking about different things. Vox's jackets are a little less drapey than what Steed normally cuts, yes. But the big difference between the three jackets for me is the shape of the fronts. The Steed and Paone angle outwards at the buttoning point, forming an X. The Arrigo is curvier.

    You can get a jacket from Steed with a more closed quarter, which would negate that effect (so more Y than X), but if you ask for open quarters, you'll essentially get that X-front shaping.
     
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2016


  12. hippotamus

    hippotamus Senior member

    Messages:
    178
    Likes Received:
    15
    Joined:
    Apr 30, 2014
    That's a very good interpretation (and maybe even the 1st time I heard of it) of what open quarter really is.

    Without seeing the Liverano, people imagine "open quarter" as just X, but it is really the overall round / curve that create the "open quarter" feel
     


  13. dfoverdx

    dfoverdx Senior member

    Messages:
    242
    Likes Received:
    52
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    Personally i prefer curved fronts. The issue with Steed type opening is if you want your front open then X creates issue especially close to buttoning point where it's not overlapping and sometime belt or pants waist is visible (as we can see from check jacket above). If you want to avoid this issue you should get Y type opening which to me not very elegant.
     


  14. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

    Messages:
    7,985
    Likes Received:
    12,965
    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2011
    

    Tailors use a different term, but the word "quarters" is really just a colloquialism for the opening below the buttoning point. So, open quarters is when the jacket sweeps back towards the hips. That's true whether the front is X- or )(-shaped.

    This is an extreme example, and not very representative of Liverano's cut since it's still at a fitting, but this shows the curviness of his quarters

    [​IMG]

    Here's a finished Liverano coat on @jolinlovesjunya

    [​IMG]

    The thing that makes these look nice, however, isn't just the shape of the quarters, it's the overall roundness of the silhouette. The lapels are almost concave, forming a )(-shaped curve from the lapel to the hem, the jacket is slightly shorter, and shoulders are sloped. IMO, that's what people miss when they bring photos of Liverano jackets to their tailor and say "make the quarters open like this." Feels like a lot of people on this board try to crowbar Liverano quarters into their non-Liverano suits, and it always looks bad.



    That hasn't been my experience. A couple of my NSM jackets have slightly more rounded quarters, and they show a little more of the waistband. My Steeds are x-shaped, and they don't. I find it's less about the shape of the quarters and more about how open they make it (along with how high are your trousers). There's also how quickly the quarters cut away below the buttoning point.

    Here we see @gusvs in a Liverano suit. He's always well-dressed, but this shows a Liverano jacket with very open quarters, which exposes the tie and waistband.

    [​IMG]

    Here's a more conservative Liverano suit, which doesn't.

    [​IMG]

    Here's an x-shaped Steed, which also doesn't show anything.

    [​IMG]

    @mafoofan's x-shaped Rubinacci

    [​IMG]

    And @whnay.'s Rubi, which also doesn't show anything.

    [​IMG]


    Probably worth noting that the reason why you see a bit of the belt is because the camera is angled upwards. Here's the same jacket straight-on

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2016


  15. bry2000

    bry2000 Senior member

    Messages:
    2,203
    Likes Received:
    528
    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2004
    What you refer to as the more conservative Liverano is a thing a beauty. Prefer that over the Steed example and even the Rubinacci (and I have suits from R so I should be biased).

    Couple of other things. The term quarters is an Igent term. Most tailors unless they are message board savvy won't know what you are talking about.

    I have seen a couple of instances where a young customer brings his internet photos to a tailor and says he wants something done a certain way. The tailor's reaction is always cringeworthy. Hence, the difficulty in fitting elements of a Liverano into another tailor's house style.
     
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2016


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by