East Sicily Tailors

[dieworkwear]

Jesus.

So, is the shoulder line on the on the cream DB exactly the same as the navy SB? It looks a little more padded and extended in the photos, but I don't know if that's because of the lighter fabric.

Also, any more SF-robo pose photos of the two jackets with a collared shirt?

 

[dieworkwear]

By the way, did you get a chance to see any other tailors in that area? Even if just for a peek? I've heard there are a bunch of tailors within a few blocks of each other -- Arrigo, Coco, Veloce, Ragusa, Macchia, Savoca, Gorgone, etc.

Would be curious to hear what you thought of their work.

 

[Andy57]

Jesus.

Indeed.

 

[bry2000]

Wow. That is great value. Possibly cheaper than the LL Vacation option. Lol.

 

[UrbanComposition]

I'll post some pics of both jackets this weekend; if The weather is anything like it is today, the flannel should be relatively comfortable.

The shoulder of them is different, as well as the sleeve treatment. Think of it as a representation of at least two styles that he can do.

Didn't get a chance to visit any other tailors in Messina, but I did hear that Savoca is no longer working (at least his phone number isn't).

 

[lordsuperb]



Wow. That is great value. Possibly cheaper than the LL Vacation option. Lol.

Looks like we owe our friend @SartodiNapoli an apology!!!

 

[dieworkwear]



Looks like we owe our friend @SartodiNapoli an apology!!!

There are a bunch of really affordable tailors all over Italy. The problem is always getting them to travel. Few are willing to go abroad, and those that do need to cover extra costs. And if they set their prices too low, they're at risk of bailing on customers once they lose one or two orders. Things can get unprofitable really fast if you don't have the right margins, which doesn't make things safe for customers.

TBH, I don't get people who come on to this board and say "my local tailor in XYZ far away country charges half that!" That's great news if you live in that country, but does little for people who are halfway around the world.

 

[bdavro23]

I have asked Sig Arrigo if I can share pricing and he gave me the green light:

For those visiting his sartoria in Messina the price for a jacket is €800, €300 for trousers and €300 for a vest. Turnaround is 10 days to two weeks, depending on workload. He may visit New York and if he does, his cost will be considerably higher. If you are going to him in Messina you either must speak Italian or hire a translator, as he doesn't speak English.

This is cmt pricing I assume?

 

[SimonC]



There are a bunch of really affordable tailors all over Italy. The problem is always getting them to travel. Few are willing to go abroad, and those that do need to cover extra costs. And if they set their prices too low, they're at risk of bailing on customers once they lose one or two orders. Things can get unprofitable really fast if you don't have the right margins, which doesn't make things safe for customers.

TBH, I don't get people who come on to this board and say "my local tailor in XYZ far away country charges half that!" That's great news if you live in that country, but does little for people who are halfway around the world.

But to me @UrbanComposition has the right approach. Go on vacation. Take long enough to give the tailor time to work. Be respectful, work with them, and stay close to their house style.

It's when people start expecting smaller tailors to fly half way around the world, to meet clients who do not speak their language, and who have a different culture and expectations that things start to go wrong.

 

[dieworkwear]



But to me @UrbanComposition has the right approach. Go on vacation. Take long enough to give the tailor time to work. Be respectful, work with them, and stay close to their house style.

It's when people start expecting smaller tailors to fly half way around the world, to meet clients who do not speak their language, and who have a different culture and expectations that things start to go wrong.

That would definitely be more ideal, but also not terribly realistic unless you travel often (and presumably to the same city). If you live in the US and want bespoke clothes, traveling tailors are most likely your best option. Even in a city like NYC -- nevermind elsewhere.

The US has been a big market for traveling tailors since the end of WWII, so it's not like there aren't reliable operations. It just gets more complicated for enthusiasts since they often want to try smaller houses.

 

[dfoverdx]

Jesus.

So, is the shoulder line on the on the cream DB exactly the same as the navy SB? It looks a little more padded and extended in the photos, but I don't know if that's because of the lighter fabric.

Also, any more SF-robo pose photos of the two jackets with a collared shirt?

My tailor is in the region as well and actually i am paying even slightly lower. There's huge value in Sicily and people tend to be more reliable than Naples for instance (story of comparing south...)
With respect to shoulders, the shoulder expression is given in the finishing stage and does not impact they way shoulders are cut or fit. Padding is another story and it's very hard to tell whether a suit has padding or not from a picture... The fact that shoulders seem square does not mean it has padding, it means just that sleeves are set in traditional way and not spalla camicia etc.
Interestingly my tailor makes by default traditional standard shoulder expression and not spalla camicia.

 

[jedwards]

Come on DWW,
There are surely many good tailors based permanently in NYC. Leonard Logsdail immediately springs to mind if people need someone British.

I love the look of this Sicilian guys work on UC but if this is going to result in people pushing an old man who looks to be in his 70s into another "trunk show".... Well you have to question the sanity of all this really.

 

[bry2000]

In my view, there are very few local options at the high end of the market in NYC currently. Many of the best tailors in NYC have either retired or have passed. Names like Raphael, Nicolosi (I assume he's retired), and Gagliano.
Logsdail is a legit option if you like his style (not for me), perhaps Corvato, not sure about Cheo. Am I missing anyone? And I don't mean bespoke "clothiers". I mean real bespoke tailors.

 

[Mr. Six]

^ Ercoles. But once you leave NYC, the local bespoke options in the US diminish rapidly.

 

[lordsuperb]



In my view, there are very few local options at the high end of the market in NYC currently. Many of the best tailors in NYC have either retired or have passed. Names like Raphael, Nicolosi (I assume he's retired), and Gagliano.
Logsdail is a legit option if you like his style (not for me), perhaps Corvato, not sure about Cheo. Am I missing anyone? And I don't mean bespoke "clothiers". I mean real bespoke tailors.

they are just as good.....