1. Styleforum Gives - Holiday Charity Auction 11: Any Three (3) Customized Ties from Vanda Fine Clothing

    We are very proud to present this year's edition of the Styleforum Holiday Charity Auctions, this year in support of the Ronald McDonald House Charities of Spokane (www.rmhcspokane.org). Each Auction lasts 24 hours. Please follow and bid on all the auctions.

    The 11th auction of the year is for any three customized ties from Vanda Fine Clothing. Please bid often and generously here

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Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by davesmith, Feb 21, 2012.

  1. DonRaphael

    DonRaphael Distinguished Member

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    I purchased a 7 fold unlined tie. Ended up selling it. It was to thin and knotted a tiny knot, even when using a DFIH.
     


  2. Academic2

    Academic2 Distinguished Member

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    Thanks, guys. This is helpful.

    Cheers,

    Ac
     


  3. DonRaphael

    DonRaphael Distinguished Member

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    FYI, the one I purchased was unlined and hand rolled. If you decide to purchase one, take into account that unlined ties tends to stretch far more than lined ties. My unlined tie stretched 1-1,5" more than my lined ties. I used the length to tie a DFIH.
     
    Last edited: May 3, 2015


  4. PCK1

    PCK1 Distinguished Member

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    This is dependent on the material used to make the tie.

    My experience with Patrizio is that the twill silk does not make up well in a 7-fold unlined tie. It does exactly as you described...and the twill silk is better suited for a 3, 5, or 7 fold lined tie...all of which make up very nicely.

    However, with the cashmere, challis, etc...it makes up very well unlined. I prefer 5-fold for cashmere and challis though as I feel it becomes a bit too bulky when made into a 7-fold.

    My madder ties are 5-fold unlined and knot beautifully too...
     


  5. DonRaphael

    DonRaphael Distinguished Member

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    Thanks for the clarification. Yes, mine was made out of twill silk. But mr. Cappelli told me all ties stretch more when unlined. Which makes sense since there's less resistance when you knot it.
     


  6. PCK1

    PCK1 Distinguished Member

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    Yes...but stretching also depends on how often you wear it...regardless of lining or lack thereof...
     


  7. ovlov

    ovlov Senior Member

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    Hang on.

    I thought all Cappelli ties were lined.

    When they he advertises 'unlined' he actually means 'untipped'. If that is the case how would having an unlined (untipped) tie affect the knot or length since the body of the tie still has interlining?

    I have 2 Cappelli ties that were both ordered 'unlined'. The 7 fold grenadine definitely has interlining and ties a fantastic knot. The other is a 3 fold unlined wool/cashmere blend. I have never bothered to check for interlining but it also ties a good knot.
     


  8. krakatoa

    krakatoa Well-Known Member

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    In my experience (with more than a dozen ties from Patrizio), unlined means unlined. (In retrospect, I wish that a few of them did have interlinings.)
     


  9. DonRaphael

    DonRaphael Distinguished Member

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    This is my experience as well.
     


  10. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Distinguished Member

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    I don't think I've ever seen a truly unlined tie from EG Cappelli. The "unlined" versions are just lightly lined -- the lining ends higher up on the tie, but it's still there.

    The only unlined ties I've seen have all been from Vanda, which feel very unique. Without the lining, the tie can feel like an ascot, especially if it's made from silk.
     


  11. Amar ezzahi

    Amar ezzahi Affiliate Vendor

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    One exemple of a truly unlined tie from Cappelli:
    (sorry for the quality)

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I checked : no lining at all.
     


  12. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Distinguished Member

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    I'm happy to trust your judgement, since you have the tie in front of you, but for what it's worth, you can't check for the interlining by just peeking up the folds. You can either shimmy your fingers up the tie or pinch the fabric and pull both sides apart (as you would for a suit when checking for canvassing). The second is most reliable since the interlining can end quite high up on the tie.

    Most ties have padding and interlining. If by "unlined," we mean that the tie has no padding, then yes -- many ties are made without padding. I haven't seen any tie made without an interlining, however. I actually just checked my Vanda. They have the lightest construction I've seen and even they use a bit of interlining.
     
    Last edited: May 5, 2015


  13. Amar ezzahi

    Amar ezzahi Affiliate Vendor

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  14. Amar ezzahi

    Amar ezzahi Affiliate Vendor

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  15. PCK1

    PCK1 Distinguished Member

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    I do believe many of my cappelli's also have no lining...however with certain ties there is a light lining...i suppose to prevent stretching of materials like grenadine...
     


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