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DROPS! TRAD/IVY SPRING JACKETS! J. Press 3/2 sack in Summer Gamekeeper Tweed, BLEEDING MADRAS 3/2 sa

Discussion in '2011-2017 Classic Menswear' started by tweedydon, Apr 24, 2016.

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  1. tweedydon

    tweedydon Senior member

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    I have several beautiful--and, in some cases, extremely rare!--jackets to pass along today, all of which are perfectly appropriate for Spring and early summer!

    As always, I offer FREE SHIPPING ON EVERYTHING WITHIN THE USA; International inquiries are welcome, with shipping at below cost.

    Also as always, ALL OFFERS ARE VERY WELCOME!

    Please PM with interest and offers!

    1) AUTHENTIC 1960's 3/2 sack in BLEEDING MADRAS! This is NOT MADE ANY MORE!

    This is ... stunning. An authentic 3/2 sack cut from genuine Bleeding Madras and sold by Harry Ballot of Princeton--one of the Big Four Ivy clothiers of the Golden Age of Ivy Style--this is a true Trad/Ivy GRAIL item.

    First, the fabric. Bleeding Madras differs significantly from regular Madras in virtue of the fact that the dyes that were used to produce it "bled", resulting in an absolutely beautiful, subtle fabric after a few launderings (or, in the case of jackets, being caught in a few heavy summer showers!) in which the edges of the colours quietly and naturally had bled into each other. The effect was perfectly Ivy; beautiful, understated, and only achievable through time and use.

    Bleeding Madras was the result of the use of Azo dyes (for the chemically inclined, these are compounds o the functional group R–N=N–R′, with the R molecule being an aryl) which produced vivid yellows, oranges, and reds, and which were exceptionally water soluble--hence the bleeding. Unfortunately, these dyes do not degrade under natural conditions, and when they accumulate in the waste discharge of dyeing factories have serious adverse environmental consequences. This lead to legal pressure to restrict or prohibit their use, and hence Bleeding Madras effectively ceased to be produced in the 1960s, although production of its colour-fast cousin (Madras) continued apace.

    This jacket is cut from azo-dye Bleeding Madras--a fabric that, quite simply, is no longer made. The current absence of bleeding shows that this jacket was carefully kept away from rain, and so the colouring is as distinct as it was when this was first made.... beautiful dark greens like the hills in an Indian spring outside of Madras, dusty Indian taupes and muted blues, and stripes of saffron yellow. This is a beautiful jacket!

    Originally retailed by Harry Ballot of Princeton, this is cut as a classic 3/2 sack, with a lovely lapel roll. It has a single centre hook vent, two button cuffs, and a half-lining. It is half-canvassed, and was, of course, Made in the USA.

    It is in excellent condition.

    Asking just $65 > 55 for this rare and desirable grail item!

    Measurements:


    Chest: 21 5/8
    Sleeve: 24 7/8 (+1 1/4)
    Shoulder: 19 1/8
    Length: 29 1/4

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    2) J. Press 3/2 sack in Summer Gamekeeper SIlk-Linen Tweed!

    SOLD

    This is absolutely beautiful! Made for J. Press in Canada, this is cut from Summer Gamekeeper Tweed that was woven in Scotland by Robert Noble. This tweed is NOT merely a lightweight wool, but a lovely and light blend of 55% silk and 45% linen, simply perfect for Spring, Summer, and early Fall.

    The patterning and colourway of the cloth is also perfect for these seasons, being a very, very light lichen green broken bone herringbone base with a very subtle overchecking in single threads of dark berry and burnt orange. The jacket is cut as a classisc 3/2 sack with a lovely lapel roll; it has a single centre hook vent and four button cuffs. It is fully lined and half-canvassed, and is in excellent condition.

    Asking just $49, or offer.

    Tagged a 43L, this measures:


    Chest: 22 1/4
    Sleeve: 24 1/2 (+2)
    Shoulder: 19
    Length: 30 3/4

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    3) NWT Lauren Linen Jacket

    This is a lovely linen jacket, perfect for Spring and Summer!

    Pure linen, this is a contemporary two button jacket with subtle darts and four button cuffs. It is a lovely clasic navy with a bold cream windowpane overcheck. It's absolutely NWT, and has both its single centre vent and all of its pockets basted shut. It is, of course, in absolutely excellent condition. Imported, just as Brooks would say!

    Asking just $35 > 25

    Tagged 44R, this measures:

    Chest: 21 3/4
    Sleeve: 23 7/8 (+ 11/2)
    Shoulder: 19 1/2
    Length: 30 3/4

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    4) BEAUTIFUL! New York City Bespoke jacket by Saint Laurie Tailors!

    SOLD

    Saint Laurie tailors was founded in 1913 in Brooklyn by an immigrant Polish tailor, and, after the Second War, became one of the foremost proponents of Ivy Style, as they note proudly on their webpage! Today, the most famous customer of Saint Laurie is likely Stephen Colbert, who wears their suits for The Late Show.

    Their jackets cost around $1700, and this one shows why; it's absolutely beautiful. Although there is no fabric content listed this is likely a blend of wool and silk, possibly with cashmere thrown in (or taking the place of wool); it's certainly extremely soft and luxurious, and has a wonderful hand and drape. The patterning and colourway do full justice to the cloth; a wonderful shimmering blue-green back with a silvery-cream overcheck, all subtle, udnerstated, and clearly luxurious. The jacket itself is a contemporary two-button front jacket with subtle darting. It is fully lined, fully canvassed, and has a single centre vent. The cuffs are, of course, fully functional surgeon's cuffs with four buttons. This jacket boasts plenty of handwork, and was not just Made in the USA, but Made in New York City--as its label attests!

    This is in excellent condition, and is a steal at just $49, or offer.

    Measurements:


    Chest: 21 1/2
    Sleeve: 25 1/2 (+1)
    Shoulder: 19
    Length: 30 3/4

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    5) BEAUTIFUL! New York City Bespoke jacket by Saint Laurie Tailors!

    SOLD

    Saint Laurie tailors was founded in 1913 in Brooklyn by an immigrant Polish tailor, and, after the Second War, became one of the foremost proponents of Ivy Style, as they note proudly on their webpage! Today, the most famous customer of Saint Laurie is likely Stephen Colbert, who wears their suits for The Late Show.

    Their jackets cost around $1700, and this one shows why; it's absolutely gorgeous! There's no fabric content listed, but this appears to be a lightweight wool, likely Super 120. The jacket is fully lined and fully canvassed, and is replete with handwork--this is a truly wonderful piece of clothing! The patterning and colourway are terrific; a subtle and traditional country houndstooth check in moss green and dark navy blue on a classic dark cream background, with subtle russet and bracken overchecking. This is a contemporary two button front jacket with subtle darting and a single centre vent. It has, of course, fully functional surgeon's cuffs, with four buttons.

    This was, of course, Made in New York City--as shown on its label!

    This is in absolutely excellent condition, and is a steal at just $49, or offer.

    Measurements:


    Chest: 21 5/8
    Sleeve: 25 3/8 (+1)
    Shoulder: 19 1/4
    Length: 30 3/4

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    6) VINTAGE Jos. A. Banks 3/2 sack in antique ivory

    SOLD

    Forget the "Buy one get 300 free!!!!!" sales of the current and degraded Jos. A. Banks; back in its heyday (the "red label era" and before) Banks was a worthy rival to Brooks and Press, and this jacket shows why.

    Cut as a classic 3/2 sack, this lovely jacket has the classic two button cuffs and patch pockets that are the hallmarks of the more desirable informal Try/Ivy jackets. It is half-lined, and appears to be half-canvassed; it was Made in the USA. It has a single centre vent, as while there's no fabric content listed this is either lighter-weight wool, or, more likely a blend of lightweight wool and linen. From this, and its beautiful colouring of antique ivory, this is clearly a late Spring-Summer jacket.

    This has a couple of minor flaws; there is a small brownish mark under one of the pockets, as small ink stain on the interior, and a very very faint shadow stain on the label, as shown. None of these are very noticeable--the shadow stain almost not at all, and the ink stain can't be seen when the jacket is worn--but they are there, and so this is merely in Very Good condition; hence asking

    just $25.

    Measurements:


    Chest: 21 3/8
    Sleeve: 24 1/2 (+1 1/2))
    Shoulder: 18 1/4
    Length: 30 1/2

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    7) VINTAGE 1960s three-button summer jacket

    This is lovely! Utterly 1960s, this three-button sack jacket features classically narrow (but not too narrow) lapels, jetted pockets, unmistakably vintage 1960s buttons, two button cuffs, and a single centre vent. It is half-canvassed and half-lined in a classic 1950s - 1960s geometric pattern lining.

    This jacket has no fabric content listed, but it appears to be a wool-cotton blend. The patterning and colourway are also pure (conservative) 1960s; this shade of dark green is just never seen outside of 1950s and 1960s tailoring, and the vertical stripes give this piece a classic vintage look.

    This was, of course, Union made in the USA.

    Owing to its age this is just in Very Good condition, primarily because it has minor surface pilling throughout--as would any jacket of this vintage with this fabric content. But, this is perfectly wearable, and hence a steal at

    just $25 > 22, or offer.

    Measurements:


    Chest: 21 3/4
    Sleeve: 24 (+1 13/4)
    Shoulder: 18 1/2
    Length: 28 1/2

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    Last edited: May 22, 2016


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