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DROPS! GRAILS! MASSIVE 20 JACKET MEGATHREAD! Belvest, J. Press, Southwick, Hilton, TARTANS, RARE Tar

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tweedydon

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I have a whole slew of beautiful jackets to pass on today, including beauties from Belvest, Canali, Magee of Ireland (in handwoven Donegal Tweed), a wonderful cashmere 3/2 sack from B. Altman, several Harris tweeds, and more!

As always, I offer FREE SHIPPING ON EVERYTHING in the USA; International inquires are welcome, with shipping at REDUCED COST!

Also as always, ALL OFFERS ARE VERY WELCOME!

Please PM with interest and offers!

1) BEAUTIFUL Whitehouse & Hardy 3/2 sack tweed.

Whitehouse & Hardy were located on Fifth Avenue in New York, and in their day were among one of the most traditional and expensive clothiers in that rather expensive location.... and their wares lived up to their cost!

This is a classic 3/2 sack jacket. The ligghter-midweight tweed that this is cut from had a wonderful patterning and colourway; a classic small grey herringbone base complemented by subtle overchecking in sky blue and burnt umber, this is a jacket that's versatile enough both for your Friday office and long walks with the lab. in New England. Cut as a classic 3/2 sack with a lovely liquid lapel roll, this has the traditional leather covered metal-shanked "football" buttons--including four to each sleeve! It is half canvassed and fully lined, and features a single centre vent. It was, of course, Union made in the USA and is in excellent condition.

Asking just $35 > 30, or offer.

Measurements:


Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 24 1/2 (+ 1 1/2)
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 30 1/2








2) ABSOLUTELY GORGEOUS Nick Hilton made in Italy Windowpane Tweed!

SOLD

This is absolutely stunning! The patterning, colourway, and cut of this jacket are all gorgeous--as you'd expect from a jacket that I suspect was made by Corneliani! The cloth os this jacket is beautiful; very sort, with a lovely hand and wonderful drape. The colouring is so complex and subtle that you'll need to look at the pictures to get the full beauty of it; suffice to say that the base appears to be a dark grey birdseye, but closer inspection reveals that its a mixed birdseye of moss green, dark blue, and charcoal grey, that presents with an overall textured dark grey appearence; these colours are then all repeated (with the addition of burnished chestnut brown) in the glen plaid-style overchecking. This is a gorgeous jacket!

the construction and cut befit the beauty of the cloth. It's half-canvassed and fully lined, and has a three button front, with just the hint of a lapel roll at the top--this is by NO means a very stiff three button fashion-forward jacket. It features twin vents, and was Made in Italy expressly for Nick Hilton of Princeton--the successor to Normal Hilton, one of the major tradly clothiers of the Golden Age. This is in absolutely excellent condition.

Asking just $60 > 49, or offer.

Tagged 41R, this measures:


Chest: 22 1/4
Sleeve: 24 (+1 1/4)
Shoulder: 19 1/4
Length: 30 1/2






3) POSSIBLY UNWORN! BELVEST JACKET! Absolutely stunning--surgeon's cuffs and handwork throughout.

SOLD

This is absolutely gorgeous! Made by Italy by Belvest, one of the absolute top clothiers in the world today, this beauty is simply packed with handwork. In addition to being made by Belvest this was also made for Scott & Co of Los Angeles, which until its closure in 2008 was one of the most exclusive men's clothiers in the city--so this jacket has wonderful provenance!

The jacket is cut from Super 140s wool which has a beautifully soft hand and a very elegant drape--as you'd expect from Belvest. The cloth is beautiful; a rich chestnut base with subtle ebony black glen plaid patterning, overset with a subtle slate grey overcheck--please do see my pictures, although these come nowhere near capturing the beauty of this jacket!

The construction does full justice to the cloth. This is a contemporary two button model with subtle darting; it also features a fully functional ticket pocket, as well as its usual two flapped pockets. The cuffs are fully functional surgeon's cuffs, with all four buttons functioning. There is lots and lots of Italian handwork throughout, ranging from the lining seams, the lapels, the pocket flaps, and (I believe) all of the buttonholes. This jacket is fully canvassed and lined in Belvest's signature lining. It has a twin vent.

It's in absolutely excellent condition--indeed, it is possibly unworn, since all of the exterior pockets are still basted shut!

This beautiful jacket is an absolute steal at just $75 > 59, or offer.

Measurements:


Chest: 21
Sleeve: 24 3/4 (+1 1/4)
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 31 3/4








4) Whitehouse & Hardy nailhead tweed

Another lovely piece from Whitehouse & Hardy, the upscale Fifth Avenue haberdasher that is now long gone. This is a contemporary two button model with subtle darts. Cut from a lovely classic nailhead tweed, this is half-canvassed and fully lined. It has a single centre vent, three button cuffs, and very natural shoulders. It is in absolutely excellent condition. It was, of course, Made in the USA.

Asking just $25 > 22, or offer.

Measurements:


Chest: 20 1/2
Sleeve: 26 (+1)
Shoulder: 17 3/4
Length: 30 1/2






5) ABSOLUTELY GOREGOUS! Vintage Cashmere 3/2 sack from B. Altman!

SOLD

B. Altman's was one of THE great New York department stores. It was the first to move to Fifth Avenue, which at the time was primarily residential, designing its palatial four-story building to fit in with the surrounding mansions--it was directly opposite the mansion of the socialite Mrs. Astor (of the Astor family), and, unlike her mansion (which was demolished to make way for the Empire State Building) Altman's store still stands... although now as part of CUNY rather than as a store in its own right. It was designated a New York City landmark in 1985.

In its day Altman's was one of the most exclusive department stores in the city--and this jacket shows that its upscale reputation was fully justified. First, this is cashmere--and not the thin stuff that's so common nowadays, but thick, soft, and luxurious cashmere of the Golden Era, when cashmere was still a true luxury fabric, and carried a corresponding price. (The original retail on this jacket was astronomical!) This fabric is absolutely gorgeous. The patterning and colourway are lovely, and utterly conservative subdued 'sixties; a classic miniature shephard's check in dark grey and black with Royal blue flecking interspersed at regular intervals. This jacket is cut as a classic 3/2 sack with a lovely lapel roll; it also has two button cuffs. The buttons are classic 1960s "sandwich" buttons with a two hole fastening--they look like miniature Oreos! The jacket is fully canvassed and half-lined and features a single centre vent. It was, of course, Made in the USA.

This jacket is in Very Good/Excellent condition; it just needs a press and a dry-clean to freshen it up!

Asking just $50 > 45, or offer--a steal for a rare cashmere 3/2 sack!

Measurements:


Chest: 22 3/4
Sleeve: 25 5/8 (+ 1 1/2)
Shoulder: 19 1/2
Length: 31 3/4










6) Beautiful Donegal-esque tweed by Corbin!

This is a beautiful, classic jacket made by one of the great American clothiers, Corbin; purveyors of Gentleman's Clothing, and a company so immersed in the Ivy style that it even produced a line of trousers called "The Natural Shoulder"! Cut from a lovely classic grey herringbone tweed flecked throughout with forest green, gorse yellow, pumpkin organce, and scarlet, in the style of Donegal tweed, this lovely jacket is a contemporary two button model with subtle darting. It is half-canvassed and half-line and has a single center vent. All of its buttons are blonde horn, and it has three button cuffs. It was, of course, Union made in the USA. It just needs a dry clean to freshen it up, and then it will be in excellent condition!

Asking just $35 > 30, or offer.

Measurements
:

Chest: 21 3/4
Sleeve: 25 (+2)
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 30 1/8








7) CLASSIC VINTAGE hacking jacket by Bond Clothes

The cut, colourway, and patterning of this jacket are utterly 1960s Ivy! Although this is not a 3/2 sack it does have the hint of a roll at the top button, a nod to the fact that this was Union Made in the USA, and hence an AMerican take on the classic English hacking jacket. This has a three button front and subtle darts; the pockets are slanted hacking pockets, and it has twin vents. The colouring is the lovely dark and subdued tones of the 1950s and 1960s which is almost never seen today; the patterning is a lovely 1950s-style challiswork overcheck. It is half lined, and has British military shoulders. It has lovely narrow 1960s lapels!

This is a lovely, wearable jacket, but it does have some minor flaws. First, it needs a dry clean to freshen it up. Second, it has wear to the top and second buttonhole, although these are easy fixes even for a dry cleaner tailor--or else you could just ignore them! There are also splits in the lining in the centre, although I'll have these repaired before shipping.

Given these issues, this jacket is in Good, wearable condition, and hence

asking just $25, or offer.

Measurements:


Chest: 21 1/4
Sleeve: 25 (+ 3/4)
Shoulder: 18 1/8
Length: 29








8) GORGEOUS Donegal Tweed by Magee!

This is absolutely gorgeous! Made in ireland by Magee, the premier makers of Donegal tweed clothing, this beautiful jacket is cut from classic Donegal tweed, woven in Donegal by traditional artisans, then washed gently in the peaty waters of the river Eske to give it its traditional softness. This is a classic grey herringbone tweed, flecked throughout with the greens, yellows, chestnuts, peats, and blues of the Irish countryside from whence it came. This jacket is a contemporary two button model with subtle darting; it has twin vents and two button cuffs. It's in absolutely excellent condition.

Asking just $45 > 40, or offer--a steal for a Donegal tweed by Magee!

Tagged 44S, this measures:


Chest: 21 3/4
Sleeve: 24 3/4 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 18 3/4
Length: 29 1/4








9) CLASSIC 3/2 sack in herringbone Harris Tweed!

SOLD

This is wonderful! First, it's a classic 3/2 sack in classic grey herringbone Harris tweed--which makes it a relative rarity, since despite both Harris tweed and 3/2 sacks being Ivy classics Harrius tweed 3/2 sacks are surprisingly hard to find. Second, it's classically 1960s--narrow lapels, a lovely vintage Harris label, and a wonderful early '60s half-lining in black with red and blue stripes. Third, it was made by Penney's.... back when Penney's sold very serious clothing indeed! (In the 1950s and 1960s, clothing was not disposable..... If you were a retailer that wanted to do well, you provided excellent, sturdy clothes, and Penney's was no exception.) It has a single centre vent and two button cuffs. It was, of course, Union Made in the USA.

This does need a dry clean to freshen it up, and it does have some fraying to the lining. There is no damage to the tweed (apart from a tiny discolouration by one button, as shown--which can't really be seen except in photographs!) however, and the lining issues are easy patch fixes for a dry cleaner tailor. Given these, though, this is in Good/Very Good condition (conservatively!), and so how about

just $25, or offer--a steal for a 3/2 Harris Tweed sack!

Measurements:


Chest: 21 1/4
Sleeve: 25 (+ 1 1/4)
Shoulder: 18
Length: 29 5/8










10) Blackwatch Jacket by Bill's of Princeton.

This is a lovely classic Blackwatch jacket from Bill's of Princeton! Half-canvassed and half lined, this is a contemporary two button model with subtle darting. It has a single centre vent, and two button cuffs. It would make a lovely holiday jacket!

It does have some very minor flaws: It's missing a cuff button, and the front buttons (by Waterhouse) are not the same set as the cuff buttons--although they are in the same colour tone and crested, so this isn't obvious. It also has a few patches of surface schmaltz, which will come out with a dry clean. As such, this is in Good/Very Good condition, but could easily be made Excellent with a dry clean and a replacement button, and so this is a steal at

just $25 > 22, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

Tagged 42R. Measurements:


Chest: 21
Sleeve: 25 (+1 1/4)
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 29 3/4








11) Exquiste English hacking Jacket in Tartan Harris Tweed!


This is absolutely exquisite! Tartan Harris Tweed is very, very rare, and when done well--as here--is among some of the most beautiful tweed you'll ever see. This jacket is most definitely one of the loveliest and rarest Harris Tweeds I've seen; its closest rival was an absolutely stunning hacking jacket in Macleod tartan made by Bookster. It is, of course, an authentic Scottish tartan, but one that is beautifully subdued; a lovely lichen green and summer dusk blue as the base colours, with cream and peat black checking, overlaid with a subtle and complementary berry red window-pane overcheck. The colours are all lovely and subtle, and a testament to the natural plant dyes that they clearly originated from.

The cut and construction of the jacket do full justice to the tweed. Made by Dunn & Co.--a company that is almost synonymous in Britain and with American academics of a certain age with solid, robust, Harris Tweed jackets--in Great Britain, this jacket is cut as a British hacking jacket, with a three button front, a high equestrian collar, two front hacking pockets, twin vents, and single button cuffs. The pattern matching on the pockets and pocket flaps and the surrounding tweed is wonderful.

It is half-canvassed, and fully lined. It is also in absolutely excellent condition; this was either never worn, or worn very, very sparingly indeed. Even the locker loop appears pristine--and that's usually the first area to show wear.

This is a really beautiful and rare jacket--a true Grail find!

Asking just $75 > 65, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

Measurements:


Chest: 19 1/2
Sleeve: 26 (+2)
Shoulder: 18
Length: 30 3/4










12) J. Press Tweed Stroller!


This is absolutely wonderful--a J. Press 3/2 sack tweed stroller!

The "stroller"--a jacket with matching waistcoat, but with no matching trousers--has by now almost vanished from American wardrobes, but it still has its devotees can can still be purchased from some of the few remaining bastions of true Ivy style, such as, of course, J. Press.

And this is an absolutely lovely example. Cut as a traditional 3/2 sack, the colourway and patterning of the tweed is a wonderful checked medly of autumnal brackens, browns, and chestnuts with accents of golden wheat.. The jacket itself is from J. Press' "Presstige" line, and is half-canvassed and fully lined. It was Made in Canada, and features three button cuffs and a classic single hooked vent. The vest features a fully functional back adjuster and peak lapels. Naturally, all of the front pockets are fully functional also.

This stroller is in absolutely excellent condition, having been worn sparingly by one very careful owner--I have the full provenance.

Asking just $115 > 95, OR OFFER, boxed, shipped, and insured in the USA. International inquiries welcome, with shipping at cost.

Tagged a 46R, this measures:

Chest: 22 3/4
Sleeve: 25 1/2 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 19 3/4
Length: 31 1/2

Vest width across the fabric: 20 1/8
Vest length, tip to tip: 26








13) Lovely British Guncheck, Made in the UK.

This is a lovely, classic English jacket! Made in the UK, this is a traditional guncheck in a medley of bracken, peat black, forest green and moss green, on a traditional tan base. Half-canvassed and fully lined, this is a contemporary two-button front model, with subtle darting and two button cuffs. As you'd expect fom an English sporting jacket this has twin vents. It's in absolutely excellent condition.

Asking just $25 > 22, or offer.

Tagged 40L, this measures:


Chest: 21
Sleeve: 25 3/4 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 18 1/4
Length: 30 3/4








14) CLASSIC IVY/TRAD 3/2 sack tweed from NORMAN HILTON

This is beautiful! Made by Normal Hilton, one of the great trad. clothiers of Princeton, along with Langrock, Ballot, The English Shop, and The Princeton Clothing Co., this is cut from a traditional and classic brown herringbone tweed. IT HAS ALL OF THE TRAD DESIDERATA! This is, first, a tweed 3/2 sack. It also has lapped seams along the sleeves, across the shoulders, and down the centre back, as well as a single hook vent with a lapped seam. It is half lined, and half canvassed. It has two button cuffs; the buttons are all likely horn. It has lovely natural shoulders! It was, of course, Made in the USA!

The interior label has been removed--although it still carries the Hilton label in the inside of the interior pocket--otherwise this is in absolutely excellent condition.

Asking just $29, or offer.

Tagged 42L. Measurements:


Chest: 21 3/4
Sleeve: 25 1/4 (+2 1/4)
Shoulder: 18 1/8
Length: 31 3/4








15) CLASSIC Blackwatch Jacket by Pendleton

SOLD

A lovely American classic in the always versatile Blackwatch tartan, this jacket is perfect for both Winter and Fall. Made in the USA by Pendleton, this is half-canvassed and fully lined. It features classic leather covered and metal shanked "football" buttons and a single centre vent. It is a contemporary two button closure, and is subtly darted. It does have some minor issue of wear at the leading edge of the interior pocket--which won't be seen when worn--and could use a dry clean just to freshen it up. It's in Very Good condition, and is a bargain at just

$25, or offer.

Tagged 44, this measures
:

Chest: 22
Sleeve: 24 1/2 (+2 1/4)
Shoulder: 19
Length: 30 1/2






16) WONDERFULLY BOLD Red Plaid Hacking Jacket

I can't promise anything, but almost every woman who's seen this has loved it! ;)

This is terrific! A seriously bold jacket in red, cream, and black plaid, this beauty was from the Johnny Carson line of clothing produced by Hart, Shaffner, and Marx from 1970 until its demise in 1985, when the catalog-only line was closed. Named for Johnny Carson of The Tonight Show, this clothing line was in its time as popular as Johnny was... Not the least as he often mentioned it on the show itself.

This jacket is cut as a sack hacking jacket, with twin vents and slanted hacking pockets. It is half-canvassed, half-lined, features a two button front, and has no darting at all. It was Union made in the USA, and would be in Excellent condition if it didn't need a dry clean to freshen it up..... I have full provenance on this jacket, and so know that it's had one owner, and has been hanging in his cedar closet since 1987!

Asking just $25, or offer.

Measurements:


Chest: 21 3/4
Sleeve: 24 3/4 (+2)
Shoulder: 19
Length: 31






17) WONDERFUL Hickey-Freeman Customized Plaid Jacket

Not to be confused with the also excellent clothiers H. Freeman Hickey-Freeman is one of the staple clothiers of Ivy Style, specializes in customized clothes for their very well-heeled clientele.

This lovely jacket is truly wonderful. Union Made in the USA, the colorway and patterning are both bold and subtle.... The patterning is a classic American Plaid, with the base being a lovely shade of autumnal bracken. The overchecking is most obviously cream and black, but looking closely you'll see that it also has checking in forest green and Royal Blue, making this a lovely subtle plaid tweed.

This is half-canvassed and half-lined--and the lining is a wonderful shade of burnt orange. The jacket is subtly darted and has a contemporary two button front closure and twin vents. It has lovely vintage buttons. This is slightly rumpled on the bottom on one side from storage, but this will be fixed automatically with its first dry clean. As such, this is in Very Good/Excellent condition, and is a steal at

just $25, or offer.

Measurements:


Chest: 22 1/4
Sleeve: 24 1/2 (+2)
Shoulder: 19 1/4
Length: 30






18) RED VINTAGE 3/2 sack jacket from The Princeton Clothing Co. PATCH POCKETS

This is a lovely jacket--and being both solid red (almost scarlet) and also a rather dense hopsack weave this is one of those unusual jackets that would be perfect for both summer and the holidays!

Cut as a VERY high roll 3/2 sack (more of a 3/2.75 roll!) this wonderful jacket was made by The Princeton Clothing Co., one of the major players--after Langrock, Hilton, The English Shop, and Ballot's--in the Ivy Style movement of the Golden Age. It is half-canvassed and half-lined in a lovely complementary red lining. It features a lapped seam down the centre back, and a single hook vent. It has two buttons cuffs--as you'd expect--and was Union made in the USA, as you'd also expect. It has lovely vintage cross-hatch buttons, and lovely natural shoulders. It also has patch pockets!

It does have a minor flaw--a small thread run at the back near the hem, but this is very hard to see, especially when the jacket is worn, and doesn't affect its function at all. As such, this is in Very Good condition, and so is a steal at just

$27 > 25, or offer.

Measurements:


Chest: 21 1/4
Sleeve: 26 1/2 (+2)
Shoulder: 18 1/4
Length: 32






19) WONDERFUL Blackwatch Jacket in lighter-weight slubby wool. MADE IN THE USA.

I assumed from the lovely slubby texture of this jacket that it was a wool-silk blend, but it turns out that it's all wool--a lovely lighter-weight cloth that's perfect for Trads in warmer climes!

This jacket also shows you why you should judge clothing items on their own merits, and not by the labels they have in them.... as although this is beautifully cut and made in the USA, it's by Tommy Hilfiger!

The jacket is a lovely lighter-weight jacket in classic Blackwatch, with a wonderful slubby texture. It's a three button front with subtle darting. Fully lined, it has a single center vent, and is in excellent condition.

It's just $26, or offer.

Measurements:

Chest: 21
Sleeve: 26 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 19 1/2
Length: 32






20) WONDERFUL Southwick houndstooth jacket.

This is wonderful! Made by Southwick, one of the great traditional American clothiers, for Roots, one of the great (and long gone) tradly clothiers of upscale New Jersey, this beautiful jacket is cut from a classic grey and cream houndstooth tweed with accents of forest green, with a complementary dark red windowpane overcheck. It is half-canvassed and fully lined. It's a contemporary two button front closure jacket, with subtle darting and a single centre vent. It has four button cuffs; all the buttons are likely horn. It was, of course, Made in the USA, and it's in absolutely excellent condition.

Asking just $27 > 24, or offer, for this beauty!

Measurements
:

Chest: 22
Sleeve: 24 1/2 (+2)
Shoulder: 18 3/4
Length: 30 1/2



 

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