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DROPS! CLASSIC IVY SUMMER JACKETS! PRICE DROPS! $30 Corneliani, Murray's Toggery Shop, Chipp, NWT SI

Discussion in '2011-2017 Classic Menswear' started by tweedydon, Jun 11, 2016.

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  1. tweedydon

    tweedydon Distinguished Member

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    May 18, 2009
    I have several beautiful summer jackets to pass on today--including a stunning vintage silk DAKS from the 1960s, rare Chippworth, a NOS, NWT Huntington in pure silk, and several wonderful vintage Ivy jackets!

    I've consolidated my posts into this single thread--and all jackets now have price drops!


    As always, I offer FREE SHIPPING IN THE USA; International inquiries are welcome, with shipping at cost!

    Also as always, ALL OFFERS ARE VERY WELCOME!

    Please PM with interest and offers!

    1) Chippworth by Chipp pale yellow Ivy summer hopsack jacket

    This jacket is wonderful, and rare! It's an original example of the "Chippworth" line from the utterly Ivy tailoring firm Chipp of New York, which counted Ambassadors and Heads of State among its customers. The "Chippworth" line of menswear was aimed at the Ivy League set; here's the copy from the ad. announcing its unveiling in the Daily Princetonian on the 27th October, 1959:

    "CHIPP EXHIBITING AT NASSAU INN TODAY AND TOMORROW Open 9 A.M.-9 P.M. Today — 9 AJM.-5 P.M. Tomorrow Introducing the Chippworth Chipp has developed a special line of clothing, to be known as Chippworth, designed to offer the basic suits needed in a university man's wardrobe.. Chippworth suits will take into consideration the differences in waist proportions and incorporate all important details found in our Chipp clothing, such as similar-in-cut lapel shape and front shape, hand sewn buttonholes and genuine horn buttons. The size range will be 36 through 44 Regular, in shorts 36-38-40, and 38 through 44 longs and extra longs coats and trousers. Trouser cut with 7'" drop up to size 40; 6" drop on all larger sizes. Fabrics: Flannel, hopsack and worsted. Price — $75.00 As is our usual custom, we will also exhibit the complete line of Chipp clothing and accessories."

    This jacket lives up to Chipp's steller reputation! Cut from a lovely pale yellow hopsack cloth which is perfect for summer, it's a contemporary two-button jacket with subtle darting. It is half-canvassed, and half-lined, and has the classic Trad two buttons cuffs. It features a single centre hook vent and a lapped central seam down the back. It was, of course, Made in the USA--in fact, it was Made in New York!

    It is in Very Good/Excellent condition, and is a bargain at just $45 > 39 > 29, or offer.

    Measurements:


    Chest: 21 1/4
    Sleeve: 24 1/4 (+2)
    Shoulder: 18 1/4
    Length: 30 1/2

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    2) BEAUTIFUL Alan Royce of Princeton Seafoam Jacket


    Alan Royce was one of the Big Five Princeton clothiers during the Golden Age of Ivy Style, and this jacket shows why. First, the colour is absolutely beautiful--the perfect summer shade of seafoam blue-green; my pictures don't do this justice at all!

    Although there is no fabric content listed, it's either lightweight silk, or a blend of silk and linen; it's has a wonderful hand and drape, as is woven as a subtle broken bone herringbone. Cut as a contemporary two button jacket with subtle darts, this is half-canvassed and fully lined. It has four button cuffs and a single centre vent. It was, of course, Made in the USA. It does have one small flaw; a very faint shadow stain on the top left lapel, as shown. As such, this is just in Very Good condition, and is only $35 > 32 > 29, or offer.

    Measurements:

    Chest: 21 1/2
    Sleeve: 24 3/4 (+2 1/4)
    Shoulder: 18 3/4
    Length: 30 1/2

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    3) Pure Silk Lightweight Brown Broken Herringbone Jacket


    This is lovely! Although this is confusingly labelled both "Pure Silk" and "Pure Wool" it's clear that this is a lighter weight pure silk jacket, which is perfect for Spring, the cooler days of summer, and the warmer days of early Fall. The cloth is a lovely brown broken bone herringbone weave with very subtle mustard and russet overchecking. Cut as a contemporary two button jacket with subtle darts this is half-canvassed and fully lined. It has a single centre vent and three button cuffs. It was Made in the USA, and is in excellent condition.

    Asking just $35 > 32 > 29, or offer.

    Measurements:


    Chest: 22 1/4
    Sleeve: 25 3/4 (+1 1/4)
    Shoulder: 19 1/2
    Length: 31 1/8

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    4) CORNELIANI Summer Jacket

    This is beautiful! Made in Italy, of course, this lovely summer jacket has a wonderful patterning and colourway--an utterly Italian miniature stripe in taupe and cream and navy blue, perfect for strolling around the fountains and boulevards of Milan on a late summer evening.

    This jacket is quarter-lined, and features pick stitching on the hem of the lining. It appears to be half-canvassed, and features tow open patch pockets for added insouciance. It is unvented, has a contemporary two button closure, and subtle darts. This is perhaps an older or experimental jacket, as it is cut from a blend of 77% polyester and 23% cotton. It has some very very minor foxing to the lining on one side, but otherwise is in excellent condition.

    Asking just $35 > 30 > 25, or offer--a Corneliani for less than the price of a tank of gas!

    Measurements:


    Chest: 20 3/4
    Sleeve: 26 (+1 1/2)
    Shoulder: 18
    Length: 30

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    5) IVY GRAIL! Murray's Toggery Shop 3/2 Sack in Light Summer Green

    SOLD

    Murray's Toggery Shop started life in Nantucket in 1908, as the City Clothing Company. It was acquired by Philip Murray, Jr., in 1945--and became Murray's Toggery Shop. From the 1960s on Murray's was the store of choice for the Ivy set vacationing on Nantucket, and soon their distinctive Nantucket Red trousers--designed to fade to a pale pink over time--became an iconic Ivy summer item of clothing, being recognized as an essential piece of summer kit by The Official Preppy Handbook.

    Murray's Toggery Shop continues to provide beautiful items of traditional Ivy menswear, and this wonderful 3/2 sack is a perfect example. Although there is no fabric content listed this is clearly heavier cotton, perfect for summer, and in a wonderful shade of tennis lawn green. Cut as a traditional 3/2 sack this has a lovely liquid lapel roll, two button cuffs, a single vent, a lapped center seam down the back, and two flapped and patch pockets. It has lovely natural shoulders. It is half-canvassed and half lined, and as, of course, Made in the USA.

    3/2 sacks from the Toggery Shop are trad Grails, and so this is wonderfully priced at just $50, or offer.

    Measurements:


    Chest: 20 3/4
    Sleeve: 24 3/4 (+1 1/2)
    Shoulder: 17 3/4
    Length: 30 1/4

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    6) New Old Stock, New With Tags, New With Original Hanger--Pure Silk Summer Jacket by Hunting Horn!

    This is wonderful! First, this is a New Old Stock jacket, complete with all of its tags and its original hanger, from the preppy heyday of the late 1980s--owning this will be like travelling back in time! It's a wonderful, classic pure silk summer jacket cut from a wonderfully textured slubby silk by Hunting Horn, one of the classic preppy brands from J. Riggings. It features classic patch flapped pockets, four button cuffs, and a single centre vent. It is fully lined, and has all of its original tags intact. It even comes with its original hanger! This was "imported", and is in absolutely excellent condition.

    Asking just $45 > 40 > 35, or offer.

    Measurements:


    Chest: 20 3/4
    Sleeve: 25 3/4 (+1 3/4)
    Shoulder: 18 1/2
    Length: 30 1/2

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    7) VINTAGE 1960s Summer Tobacco Brown 3/2 Sack jacket

    This is a lovely classic 3/2 sack from the late 1960s, during the Golden Age of Ivy Style! No fabric content is listed, but this is clearly lightweight cotton, in a lovely shade of summer tobacco. This wonderful jacket is beautifully lightweight and perfect for hot summer days on the East Coast. Dating from the 1960s this has classic narrow lapels, a single hook vent, and two button cuffs. It is half-lined and half-canvassed. It was, of course, Union Made in the USA. I can't find any flaws at all, but this is a vintage piece, and so it's in Very Good/Excellent condition.

    Asking just $35 > 32 > 28, or offer.

    Measurements:


    Chest: 21
    Sleeve: 24 3/4 (+1 1/2)
    Shoulder: 19 1/2
    Length: 30

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    8) GORGEOUS Vintage Silk Jacket by DAKS, tailored in England by Simpson's of Piccadilly!

    This is a stunning jacket!

    DAKS was started in 1894 by Simeon Simpson as a bespoke tailoring operation, and quietly ran for 40 years in the original family until it soared to fame in 1934 after it produced the DAKS trouser--the first self-supporting trousers, that utilized elastic in the waistband and that sold for 30 shillings--a fortune at the time, when a whole bespoke suit could cost 50 shilling. So confident was the company of their success that they made up 100,000 pairs before announcing them to the public. They were an instant hit, and DAKS became a household term for high quality and innovative traditional clothing.

    Fuelled by this success, Alexander Simpson, who was taking over the company, decided to open a store that focused on high-end clothing. This was Simpson's, and was opened in 1936 in Piccadilly, just by Savile Row... a marketing move that Alexander made deliberately, as he wanted his clients to be able to compare the quality of his goods to those of the Row.

    SImpson never lost its concern with fine tailoring, and this gem of a jacket shows exactly how good their wares could be. Likely dating from the late 1950s or early 1960s, this beautiful jacket is cut from pure silk, although this isn't apparent at first sight, and the quality of the fabric is superb--beautifully soft and uniform in appearence, with just a hint of slubbiness to reveal its origins. The colour is a wonderful light orangey-tobacco; my pictures really don't do t justice at all. It has a traditionally British three button front with high lapels and darting; it also has the traditional British single button sleeves, and three patch pockets. It is absolutely beautifully cut, and is half canvassed and half lined.

    It was Made in England.

    At first sight it appears to be in excellent condition. However, close inspection reveals that it is starting to fray at the cuffs and teh hem--not unexpected for a pure silk jackets that's likely over half a century old. However, these frays are only JUST starting, and so could easily be repaired through darning.

    Given these, however, this jacket is in Good/Very Good condition--this is a conservative estimate!--and so is a bargain at just $35 > 32 > 25, or offer.

    Tagged 40R--this is a vintage sizing--this measures:

    Chest: 21
    Sleeve: 22 1/2 (+1 1/2)
    Shoulder: 18
    Length: 29 1/4

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    9) VINTAGE 1960s three-button summer jacket

    This is lovely! Utterly 1960s, this three-button sack jacket features classically narrow (but not too narrow) lapels, jetted pockets, unmistakably vintage 1960s buttons, two button cuffs, and a single centre vent. It is half-canvassed and half-lined in a classic 1950s - 1960s geometric pattern lining.

    This jacket has no fabric content listed, but it appears to be a wool-cotton blend. The patterning and colourway are also pure (conservative) 1960s; this shade of dark green is just never seen outside of 1950s and 1960s tailoring, and the vertical stripes give this piece a classic vintage look.

    This was, of course, Union made in the USA.

    Owing to its age this is just in Very Good condition, primarily because it has minor surface pilling throughout--as would any jacket of this vintage with this fabric content. But, this is perfectly wearable, and hence a steal at

    just $22 > 20, or offer.

    Measurements:


    Chest: 21 3/4
    Sleeve: 24 (+1 13/4)
    Shoulder: 18 1/2
    Length: 28 1/2

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    10) BESPOKE summer jacket from Philadelphia tailor!

    This is wonderful! Made by the upscale Philadelphia tailor Vittorio Castagna (then located on 17th street) in April 1973, this is a classic 1960's - 1970's plaid jacket that's perfect for summer--as indeed this is the season it was built for! It features a twin vent and hacking pockets, is fully canvassed, and has three button cuffs. It is darted, and has a two button closure. It is fully lined, and is in absolutely excellent condition. Castagna's relocated to Walnut Street in 1988, near Gucci, Burberry, Jaeger, and Duchamps. This is a lovely jacket, in absolutely excellent condition!

    Just $20 > 18.

    Measurements:

    Chest: 20 3/4
    Sleeve: 25 (+2)
    SHoulder: 18 3/8
    Length: 31

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    11) CLASSIC 3/2 sack in Pale Yellow by Gordon of Philadelphia for The Locker Room of Sea Girt, NJ

    The Locker Room was a classic men's clothing store that catered to the wealthy and staid denizens of Sea Girt and their visiting Princetonian cousins until its closure sometime in the early 1990s... around the same time as Princeton was losing its classic Ivy clothiers to malls and dress-down Fridays. The Locker Room specialized in resort wear for the Ivy set, and this jacket shows just how well they did this.

    Made by Gordon of Philadelphia, one of the great unsung men's clothiers, and cut from a lovely pale yellow cloth in a hopsack weave this is a classic 3/2 sack with a nicely fluid lapel roll, like a breaking wave on Sea Girt's shore. Half-canvassed and half-lined this has the every desirable patch pockets, and a single centre hook vent. It has natural shoulders and three button cuffs. It does have some very minor foxing near the bottom hem at the front, as shown--I only found this when photographing, and it might well vanish with a good dry clean. But, it is there, and so this is in Very Good condition only.

    Asking just $35 > 32 > 29 , or offer.

    Measurements:


    Chest: 21
    Sleeve: 25 1/4 (+1 1/2)
    Shoulder: 17 1/2
    Length: 30 1/2

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    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jul 3, 2016


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