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+ DRIES VAN NOTEN +

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Parker, Feb 27, 2014.

  1. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    DRRRIES VAN NOTEN​


    Romance. Art. Travel. History. Gardening.

    This is the place to appreciate the work of Belgian designer Dries Van Noten.
    A lot has been written about Dries elsewhere on the web, but now we can use this
    small space to discuss his clothing and ideas, share images and ask questions.

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    It’s very much human nature to seek and embrace
    that which we feel to be intimate and in which we feel
    our values and emotions are reflected.

    - DvN

     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2015
    11 people like this.
  2. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    QUICK FACTS
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    • one of the Antwerp Six
    • most known for skillful print and color mixing
    • Barneys bought his first 1986 menswear collection but sold it as womenswear
    • self-financed, still independent
    • produces 1,200 designs for women and 800 for men each year — double the majority of his competitors
    • doesn't advertise, instead stages bold runway shows and produces cool invitations
    • drives a lawnmower

    BIOGRAPHY
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    “I don’t want to be a big player,” Dries Van Noten insisted in 2006. Yet he had, in fact, already become one. Rising to prominence in the 1980s, he all but created the mold for the commercially successful independent designer.

    Van Noten was one of the Antwerp Six who traveled to London and made a splash in the mid-1980s. In 1985 he established his own label and opened his first boutique in the Belgian fashion capital, and in 1993 he brought his debut women’s collection to Paris. “I was doing something different than other designers,” he explained in 2000. “I showed delicate, fine dresses with rose prints and a rather Indian influence.”

    Fabric is usually Van Noten’s starting point, along with a certain trademark exoticism—anything “that reroutes us from the ordinary,” to use his words. “I’m known for color and prints and embroideries,” he told Vogue in 2007. “Normally the more clashing it is, the more that I like it!”

    The humble yet resourceful Belgian’s career followed a steadily onward-and-upward trajectory before he paused for breath around 2000. Having fallen out of step with the prevailing trend-winds of the time (90s minimalism), he felt constrained by the regional and historical influences with which he had always been so strongly identified. “If I didn’t make a clear break to something else,” he later said, “I would’ve found myself stuck with the label ethnic and Belgian, and not in the positive sense.” His new organizing principle? Modern art. This directional sea change was reflected in the newfound confidence of his work—and in his evident enjoyment of it. His refreshed aesthetic remained constant for the next decade. In 2005, he marked his twentieth year in the business, and in 2008 he received the CFDA’s prestigious International Award.

    Van Noten has had a strong influence on younger designers, and he’s also mentored many. Tim Van Steenbergen, one protégé, lauded him like this: “Dries has his romantic view, and dares to show himself very sensitive. Not many desginers have that courage — to be romantic."

    INSPIRATIONS EXHIBIT
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    Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris
    Exhibition Slideshow
    Telegraph Article
    Dries interview

    INTERVIEWS & ARTICLES
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    Wall Street Journal - The Insider's Outsider
    Elle magazine - The Rapture
    Russh Magazine - Designer Profile
    Video interview with Garance Doré
    Interview Magazine 2012
    Mono.Kultur - A World In Season

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    WOMEN S/S 2013

    1996-2014 COLLECTIONS - MEN & WOMEN
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    Recent Collections (Vogue UK)
    All Collections (FirstView)

    SELECT RUNWAY VIDEOS
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    Men A/W 2014-2015
    Men S/S 2014
    Men A/W 2013-2014
    Men S/S 2013
    Men S/S 2012
    Men A/W 2011-2012
    Men S/S 2011
    Men S/S 2010
    Men A/W 2009
    Men S/S 2009
    Men A/W 2008-2009
    Men A/W 2006-2007
    - - -
    Women A/W 2013-2014
    Women S/S 2012
    Women S/S 2011
    Women A/W 2010-2011
    Women S/S 2005

    MORE INFO
    - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
    driesvannoten.be


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    [​IMG]
    ABOVE: MEN A/W 2014-2015 / BELOW: WOMEN S/S 2012
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2014
    22 people like this.
  3. el Bert

    el Bert Senior member

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    Shit. Finally.
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. sipang

    sipang Senior member

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    Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh




    Thank you.
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

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    Very nice, Parker. Your work is much appreciated. I'll try to post up a recent video tomorrow. In the meantime, I'm kinda obsessed with both his men's and women's this fall. It's all so good.
     
  6. Tirailleur1

    Tirailleur1 Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    one of my fave designers of all time.
     
  7. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    ^ me too, T :)

    I've been aware of Dries womenswear since the 90s and 00s (reading W and Vogue at work :), but only got into his menswear in the past few years. I'm not really an authority or anything. I just love his design approach and thought there were enough fans on SF to have a dedicated thread. One of the things I like most about Dries is that every collection seems really personal and emotional, like he really put his heart into it -- a much different feeling than more mass/commercial designers. And maybe because I'm closer to his generation, I also really enjoy his reference points.

    Thanks pickpock, I do think that his more recent collections are awesome and Dries is just getting better and better with age. The newest 2014-15 women's collection is stunning at first glance. I want to go back at look at it again.
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2014
  8. el Bert

    el Bert Senior member

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    Now you have another reason to go Paris...

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    1 person likes this.
  9. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

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    [VIDEO][/VIDEO]
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    ^ I love it. I get the rave reference, but it's such a more sophisticated take on it. how cool are these navy jackets?

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    1 person likes this.
  11. the shah

    the shah Senior member

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    I love this SS97 shot

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    Last edited: Feb 28, 2014
    3 people like this.
  12. the shah

    the shah Senior member

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    lying furtively



     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2014
    2 people like this.
  13. KingJulien

    KingJulien Senior member

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    I have a handful of Dries that I've picked up over the past two or three years. I'm usually really impressed by his fabrics; I will try to take some pictures when I get a chance.

    That photo above looks like it could be from a 2014 collection.
     
  14. steveoffice

    steveoffice Senior member

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    I love the way he dresses.
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    ^ I know, me too. So conservative: navy chinos and plain dress shirts over crewneck tees (SF faux pas)! But also an elegant scarf or blazer.

    A little ironic since he often creates such intricate and off-beat pieces that he himself would probably never wear. But I don't really see the disconnect. His clothes are his artform. And he makes them for people who love to wear them.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2014
  16. KingJulien

    KingJulien Senior member

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    I liked this Barney's ad campaign from last fall:

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    Another one:
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    (source: VOLT magazine)
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2014
    2 people like this.
  17. NaTionS

    NaTionS Senior member

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    5 people like this.
  18. LelandJ

    LelandJ Senior member

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    Didn't think much of the skirt at 1:42 in the photos but looks great in motion here with my favorite sweater of the collection.

    Bright blue and orange colors with glittering psychedelic patterns were common in rave designs. The soundtrack in the mens runway for next winter collection sounds like prelude to mid 90's Red Zone house mix before the beat drops. Would like to see Dries and Bam dancing at an EDM event.
     
  19. KingJulien

    KingJulien Senior member

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    Always loved this - purple shimmery suit from the late '90's / early 2000's:

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    Also this collection with all the photo prints was so damn cool:
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  20. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    ^ I think that print dress is Spring 2012. I love that collection too -- the mix of antique engravings, photography and botanical illustration is so beautiful. the design compositions alone are fanstastic. a great example of mixing things that shouldn't really go together, but do.

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    Interview Mag article about the show and the prints of photographer James Reeve who did the cityscapes here.
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    Rest assured, Van Noten remains as pattern-obsessed as ever. "What keeps me interested is, as they say, the six-million-dollar question. My passion burns as bright for prints today as ever," he says. "I love the journeys of research and discovery their development takes me on. I see prints as less ‘decorative' than many might, and more fundamental to a garment's core."

    - - -
    another article on their collaboration and production process here.
     
    1 person likes this.

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