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Dress Shirts for a Slim Guy

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mylesmyles, Nov 3, 2004.

  1. mylesmyles

    mylesmyles Senior member

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    i am curious about who makes dress shirts that are cut to fit someone with a slimmer build. I am 5-10 135lbs and except for the 4 or 5 shirts i picked up while traveling to Italy and Spain all my American made shirts seem to be rather loose on me. I wear a 15.5 32/33 but i still feel as though the shirts have too much fabric, especially in the torso and back area. And advise on brands or solutions would be greatly appreciated.
     
  2. Renault78law

    Renault78law Senior member

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    Ascot Chang, Barba, and Charvet are the usual suspects, though not an 'American' Charvet, which is cut bigger. Others have had luck with the 'slim' line in various makers, such as Thomas Pink. In all likelihood, you'll probably have to go MTM.
     
  3. VMan

    VMan Senior member

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    Turnbull & Asser shirts are cut slim. Especially the shirts in their botiques, vs. shirts found at Neiman Marcus, etc.

    Also if you are going for style vs. top quality, Versace, Jil Sander, and Prada all make slim shirts. For a 15.5 neck, their chest measurments tend to fall within 39"-44". I'd only purchase these designers if the prices are under $100/shirt though, which is usually about 50-75% off retail.
     
  4. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Senior member

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    You've got to go MTM I'm afraid. Things are better with those companies already mentioned - I have many Turnbull and Asser shirts that are OK. But still lots of extra fabric around the middle.

    With the many Hong Kong tailors on the web, if price is an issue, you can now get custom shirts for well under $100 too.
     
  5. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Helmut Lang, Costume National, and Jil Sander are your best bets. HL if you are more square and angular, but slim, Costume if you have a bigger drop, and Jil Sander if you have narrow shoulders and chest. Prada is similar to Jil Sander, with a little more give in the chest and shoulders.
     
  6. VMan

    VMan Senior member

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    I was just gonna add Costume, Helmut, and Comme des Garcons, but you beat me to it.
     
  7. Pink22m

    Pink22m Senior member

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    I would also add Ted Baker and Emporio Armani in the bunch. (Quickly leaves before fellow members can launch pies at me). [​IMG]
     
  8. VMan

    VMan Senior member

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    I found Ted Baker shirts to be rather baggy. 15.5 had perhaps a 48" chest. Maybe they have different cuts for different stores.
     
  9. armscye

    armscye Senior member

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    Would you wear suit without having it tailored? Of course not. So do the same with your shirts. Find a dressmaker (yup, a dressmaker). She will have lots of experience with darting, and can take in any dress shirt. You'll pay less than twenty bucks, and get a shirt that fits vastly better.
     
  10. johnapril

    johnapril Senior member

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    My experience is that the tailor at the store will put these darts into the shirt for no extra cost. Am I alone in having this experience?
     
  11. JuniorJetSet

    JuniorJetSet Well-Known Member

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    Any Hong Kong Tailors you can personally reccommend? Thanks.
     
  12. Thracozaag

    Thracozaag Senior member

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    Slimmest OTR shirt I've tried is Borrelli at the boutique; Barba and Attolini are also more slim-cut.

    koji
     
  13. sanmateo

    sanmateo Well-Known Member

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    Oct 14, 2004
    If you're in either NYC or LA, Seize sur Vingt is quite slim fitting, about like the Barba.
     
  14. ilvangelo

    ilvangelo Member

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    I would definetely recommend Ascot Chang. I not only think they are very slim cut, but are also very high quality, specially for the prices they ask. I have also had the problem with cut for a long time and Chang solved it entirely. I have also bought Zegna at their boutique and got slim fitting shirts, though not as Chang.
    For those living in the NY area, Ascot Chang's outlet store in woodbury is very nice, with a good selection and low prices ($60 or less mostly). The first time I went there, the manager was very nice and even measured my arm length and neck cause he wanted to be sure of my size and chatted for a bit.

    -Ilvangelo
     
  15. bryce330

    bryce330 Senior member

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    I agree with the suggestion of having your shirts modified by a tailor, it should only cost about $10-15.  However, have the tailor take in the material on the sides, instead of putting darts in the back - it will be more comfortable and look a lot better.
     
  16. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

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    Slimmest shirts RTW I have ever seen are from "˜Vintage' labeled shirts from Ben Sherman, yes obviously the quality is not up to par with most of the other shirt makers mentioned on the forum, but the fit is really, really slim.

    Jon.

    I have to agree with Bryce that taking the sides in, will look a lot better and make the shirt look more bespoke than if darts are used.
     
  17. Pink22m

    Pink22m Senior member

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    That must be the case, because my Ted Baker shirt (the only one I have) is very slim cut. I wear a 36 jacket, and my 15-38 Ted Baker is probably no more then 38 inches in the chest. I got mine at their boutique in San Francisco, so perhaps those are cut much slimmer then the ones made for the department stores?
     
  18. Brian SD

    Brian SD Senior member

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    I found Ted Baker shirts to be rather baggy. 15.5 had perhaps a 48" chest. Maybe they have different cuts for different stores.
    That must be the case, because my Ted Baker shirt (the only one I have) is very slim cut. I wear a 36 jacket, and my 15-38 Ted Baker is probably no more then 38 inches in the chest. I got mine at their boutique in San Francisco, so perhaps those are cut much slimmer then the ones made for the department stores?
    definitely. I tried on Ted Baker suits at Saks and they were like pillows on my chest and back, and I too wear a 36 jacket.
     

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