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Dress like James Bond, and move like him.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by peasant, Oct 27, 2012.

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  1. wimsey

    wimsey New Member

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    I actually asked my tailor about this several years ago (for dancing purposes, not for spy purposes). His answer was that regular suit jackets couldn't both look right and give you much mobility. The way the arms attach to the body of the jacket, specifically, means that you can raise and lower your arms freely parallel to your body, but raising them perpendicularly would always be somewhat restricted.

    I later learned that actual ballroom dancers that you see in competitions or on TV wear "tail suits," which look like suits from a distance, but which are quite different in reality - they are mostly made of somewhat stretchy material, and they are fastened quite differently from a real suit. The front and back of the shirt often snap underneath the crotch (like a baby's "onesie") to keep the shirt tucked in, and sometimes the front of the jacket will have a hidden button to attach it to the shirt so it doesn't swing open. I've forgotten some of the other details the tail suits have. But you cant get that level of mobility in a regular suit.
     
  2. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    fred astaire moved fine.
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. imanewbie

    imanewbie Senior member

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    To be able to move the arms in a fight increase the yoke on the shirt and suit itself. That was my main problem in off the rack, slim fitting shirts, so I had to get MTM to increase the yoke. I can push press 135lbs with my suit on...no rips though I cant bench press.
     
  4. jeff13007

    jeff13007 Senior member

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    Im not so sure about the stretchy material. Your tailor is correct in saying the suits worn for theater productions/dancing competitions are slightly different but If i remember correctly it was necessarily the material but rather a very high armhole coupled with excess fabric somewhere (sorry i can picture this in my head but can't remember what its called) which looks strange when stationary but normal and allows for a much greater range of movement when dancing.
     
  5. Fraiche

    Fraiche Senior member

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    Are you in the mob? Why would anyone need to run/fight in a suit?
     
  6. OinkBoink

    OinkBoink Senior member

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    Maybe he lives in Detroit?
     
  7. Ivar

    Ivar Senior member

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    Most answers so far have been pretty unhelpful. Yes, Astaire wore one-off suits that served the purpose of giving his arms maximum movability -- suits that were unwearable outside that context -- but I get the feeling that OP's concern is more quotidian. What he's looking for, I think, is high armholes, minimal shoulder padding and as loose a fit as his preference allows.
     
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2012
  8. peasant

    peasant New Member

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    I think this is what I am looking for. But, I am rather inexperienced when it comes to shopping for suits (which apparently is a horrible crime around here, in spite of the fact that I am trying to learn). So, even if I found all of these things, I am not sure I would recognize these qualities. Can you suggest any lines/brands/styles that I may be able to find locally to try them on and get a feel these features, and possibly purchase to add to my wardrobe?

    Thank you for finally taking time to look into the question.
     
  9. Ivar

    Ivar Senior member

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    Not at all. Being European, I might not be the best person to call on for help. But If I were you, I'd probably visit some high-end store such as Barneys, Neiman Marcus or Bergdorf Goodman and ask one of the SAs for help. Now, whatever suit you're introduced to will probably cost a good deal more than you're willing to churn out, but the experience will likely give you a better feel for what separates the good stuff from the bad.
     
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2012
  10. mason

    mason Well-Known Member

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    You probab;y need a bunch of elastic fabrics in the suits to be able to move like James Bond. A regular wool custom suit just wouldn't cut it now.
     
  11. jeff13007

    jeff13007 Senior member

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    For ready to wear stuff why not try the actual james bond brands? Try out Brioni (Goldeneye-Casino Royale), and Tom Ford (Quantum of Solace-Skyfall) for RTW suits they have pretty high armholes but if you really want the maximum amount of mobility you are gonna have to go for bespoke and not some 200 dollar 24 hour thing I'm talking the legit saville row/naples experience.
     
  12. Fraiche

    Fraiche Senior member

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    The fabric he needs would probably also need elastine for the level of mobility he's looking for.
     
    Last edited: Nov 9, 2012
  13. Superfluous

    Superfluous Senior member

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    You should go into Neiman Marcus, put some different suits on, fight some people and roll around the floor like you're James Bond to see how the suits keep up.
     
    Last edited: Nov 9, 2012
  14. michaelyork

    michaelyork Senior member

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    Is everything Daniel Craig wears in Skyfall by Tom Ford?
    I can't find anything that says otherwise.
     
  15. Chase H

    Chase H Senior member

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  16. TheBIBS

    TheBIBS Member

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    Um...yes. Go on GQ and read the article where they interview the costume designer. Even the damn scarf is by Tom Ford.
     
  17. MyOtherLife

    MyOtherLife Senior member

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    This thread should be entitled 'Dress like James Bond, move like him...and need a chiropractor after'.
     
  18. jeff13007

    jeff13007 Senior member

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    As well as being bullet/bomb proof and wrinkle resistant so after a gun fight he can have martinis at the bar lol. But i don't think he's gonna actually be dancing in it he just wants something he can move around a bit in, and used bond as an example
     
  19. jeff13007

    jeff13007 Senior member

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    Not everything, but the suits shirts and tie is TF maybe one of the coats as well is TF but i know the peacoat is Billy Reid
     
  20. Saturdays

    Saturdays Senior member

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    I don't get why people have a hard time moving around in their suits, I've never had a problem with any of mine. All of mine are like silhouettes to my body and shape. Its like liquid wool was poured over me and molded around my ligaments.

    Thinner fabric, slightly, helps too.
     

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