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Drafting your pattern depending on silhouette & style

patrickBOOTH

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I have a question for some of the more experienced bespoke clients. When you get your pattern drafted for a single breasted suit and get it nailed down after many commissions, then you decide to bespeak a double breasted suit is this pretty much like starting from scratch again, or can most of the measurements/patterns be used to cut a double breasted "rock of eye"?

Also, If you get a pattern nailed down with a very contintental silhouette and you move to a draped silhouette can this also be done off of your origianl pattern, or is it a burden to start from scratch again?

Thanks in advance.
 

jefferyd

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lurker[1].gif
 

Manton

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My experience has been that it usually requires one extra fitting to make sure everything is right. It's harder to go from SB to DB than the reverse.
 

TheFoo

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Well, first of all, I'm not sure your pattern is every truly "nailed". Adjustments will always have to be made for the cloth used and the random idiosyncracies inherent to a handmade object.

That said, I think the probability of error will be much higher moving to a double-breasted jacket from a single-breasted pattern. There are many factors that must be newly dealt with, like button placement, front overlap, the gorge and lapel, etc.
 

jefferyd

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Originally Posted by voxsartoria
What kind of popcorn is that?


- B


Garrett's, of course.
 

jefferyd

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Originally Posted by Despos
regular, cheese or carmel?

Caramel. Never had the cheese- is it any good?
 

ctp120

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I know the OP asked the question of bespoke clients, but since we have two pros in attendance . . . thoughts?
 

Despos

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Originally Posted by ctp120
I know the OP asked the question of bespoke clients, but since we have two pros in attendance . . . thoughts?

Caramel. Never had the cheese
 

Despos

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Originally Posted by ctp120
I know the OP asked the question of bespoke clients, but since we have two pros in attendance . . . thoughts?
Vox, Manton & Foo, who didn't make the cut?
 

patrickBOOTH

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Originally Posted by ctp120
I know the OP asked the question of bespoke clients, but since we have two pros in attendance . . . thoughts?

I don't like singling people out, that was why it was phrased the way it was, but insight on how a tailor approaches changing styles of the same client would be interesting to hear about.
 

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