Drafting your pattern depending on silhouette & style

[patrickBOOTH]

I have a question for some of the more experienced bespoke clients. When you get your pattern drafted for a single breasted suit and get it nailed down after many commissions, then you decide to bespeak a double breasted suit is this pretty much like starting from scratch again, or can most of the measurements/patterns be used to cut a double breasted "rock of eye"?

Also, If you get a pattern nailed down with a very contintental silhouette and you move to a draped silhouette can this also be done off of your origianl pattern, or is it a burden to start from scratch again?

Thanks in advance.

 

[jefferyd]

 

[Manton]

My experience has been that it usually requires one extra fitting to make sure everything is right. It's harder to go from SB to DB than the reverse.

 

[voxsartoria]

..

 

[TheFoo]

Well, first of all, I'm not sure your pattern is every truly "nailed". Adjustments will always have to be made for the cloth used and the random idiosyncracies inherent to a handmade object.

That said, I think the probability of error will be much higher moving to a double-breasted jacket from a single-breasted pattern. There are many factors that must be newly dealt with, like button placement, front overlap, the gorge and lapel, etc.

 

[jefferyd]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

What kind of popcorn is that?


- B

Garrett's, of course.

 

[Despos]

Originally Posted by jefferyd

Garrett's, of course.

regular, cheese or carmel?

 

[jefferyd]

Originally Posted by Despos

regular, cheese or carmel?

Caramel. Never had the cheese- is it any good?

 

[ctp120]

I know the OP asked the question of bespoke clients, but since we have two pros in attendance . . . thoughts?

 

[Despos]

Originally Posted by ctp120

I know the OP asked the question of bespoke clients, but since we have two pros in attendance . . . thoughts?

Caramel. Never had the cheese

 

[voxsartoria]

..

 

[ctp120]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

- B

What kind of popcorn is that?

 

[voxsartoria]

..

 

[Despos]

Originally Posted by ctp120

I know the OP asked the question of bespoke clients, but since we have two pros in attendance . . . thoughts?
Vox, Manton & Foo, who didn't make the cut?

 

[patrickBOOTH]

Originally Posted by ctp120

I know the OP asked the question of bespoke clients, but since we have two pros in attendance . . . thoughts?

I don't like singling people out, that was why it was phrased the way it was, but insight on how a tailor approaches changing styles of the same client would be interesting to hear about.